... okay, how are you testing the soil pH, using run-off? that's a generally lousy way to do it, because it's a method that's prone to several sources of measurement error,.. here's a link to an improved method--
https://www.autoflower.org/threads/...-for-run-off-testing-and-ph-estimation.41733/
...follow direction and calculation carefully mate! .... the hard water is likely what's behind the high pH disko,... and if you tried to measure pH of RO or distilled water, it probably came out confusing-- this is normal, part of the water chemistry that
pure water has, and how the pH meter works,... If you flush, use water that's been made with your tap and RO/DI, to greatly reduce hardness, but not pure RO/DI, that can have issues as well,.. make a 1/3-2/3 blend of tap and RO/ DI,... any chance you have a TDS meter?-- total dissolved solids... this will tell you just how hard the water is, with dissolved minerals (mainly CaCO3-- yes, limestone

)... this is what gives water pH buffering capacity, which in RO/DI is missing, so trying to pH pure waters is nuts, as even tiny inputs will have big changes in pH! ... your AN nutes will buffer themeselves in solution, but less hard water will help, as the nutes can only do so much, and might be overwhelmed by the hardness... once in soil, these nutes do not buffer the soil as well! It just doesn't work that way in soil,... I recommend a micronutrient supplement, with Fe, Zn, Mn, etc. in it, just to be sure,.. remember, flushing will strip away most everything, which is why in the final pour through, you add back a mild nute solution,... better still, a foliar spray of micronute's will speed thing in there fastest... do you have a wetting agent? this is critical to effective foliar spraying,...