...reboot time, now under it's true name Phyter!

[Mañ'O'Green]

Arte Johnson! How I loved that show, and the Celebrity Roasts!

I'd start sooner than that, those pathogen spores (outside especially) are already on the plant, just not activated yet... At this current grow spot, I have at least one plant each year that has the main stem attacked, even lower down where it's toughest! Also, fan leaf junctions are weak points, even if they drop off naturally... When I trim/prune, I also leave at least a couple inches of petiole to keep that entry point a tough road to travel... Clearly some of the botrytis strains are more aggressive/invasive that others ....

You can get fog at most any time where you live so I see your point. I have only had trouble with the densest of buds and only in the bud. Indoors I can control the environmental factors. Big Ass Buds just create there own environment inside them buds!

 

[Phyter]

Doing photo perpetual indoors this summer, but was thinking about 1 or 2 autos out in the greenhouse if I can find time to get it set up and cleaned. Dad neglected it for a couple years. Not in a legal state so not sure if you'd want your product in close proximity at this stage of the game. But our adverse conditions would test the hell out of it.
Mid Florida, high heat, high humidity, kick azz hurricanes.

Sounds like an excellent candidate. High RH% will give a good test. I have no qualms about shipping to Florida. We will likely have Florida State Fertilizer license in the summer.

 

[Phyter]

Is there a soil/reservoir application pathway? Is it systemic or symbiotic?

Does not move much from where it is applied. That likely means a few applications with new growth during crucial flowering period.

 

[Phyter]

Same here, I'm across the pond in Europe so if you guys are willing. I'm game

I've shipped to Europe for various other crops. Don't see why this would be a problem. We'll talk. Want to get a sense of the marketplace in Europe as well.

 

[Phyter]

Welcome back to AFN Phyter/Bryon! ... It's great to have such a product back here for some proper testing again!
I'm sure there's more interest and demand than it appears, many folks don't know about these type of products/bio-agents and the several ways they can help... Ah, I meant to ask before, is the name "RotBlock" pretty much defunct now?

As with lots of other things, it's all about prevention! I ran the Infirmary here for years, and that theme is one I pounded the drum over constantly. It's 10x the pain in the ass to cure/fix than it is to prevent or at least strongly suppress... And with fungal pathogens more often than not, once they get foothold, the War doesn't end until the plant is harvested even if you can beat it back temporarily. Ones like Botrytis and mildews are (subsurface?) tissue invaders, once inside they don't go away even if the outer surfaces is treated... What makes botrytis so bad IMO is that it dives into the deeper tissues, into the vascular system and then travels around... all the surface blasting in the world won't do diddly-squat about that; worse, it rots from the inside-out ...Nothing to do about that but what I call "gangrene protocol", chop and discard whole buds or florets until a clean zone is created, and treat that best you can since now there are open "wounds" giving ready access for the fungi to invade all over again .... oh and weep softly as you throw what was nice bud into the garbage -

Anyway, something that should be well noted: no product is a panacea for this, nor is such a product able to stop an full-on rot meltdown once well under way... The key is discipline in regular applications, consistently applied the right way (read: covering all surfaces top -> bottom, topside -> underside) thoroughly to keep up with new growth, veg' and bud alike... Remember, you are inoculating the surface area with this microbe, bare spots are open doors!

Bryon, do you recommend use of a wetting agent with Phyter? I assume you do... For those not that hip with foliar applications, a wetting agent takes the surface tension out of the solution, allowing it to coat and cover evenly, not just bead up and sit there doing next to nothing...
I'm sure Bryon will have more details on this soon!
....Meantime, I think I'll scour the old thread for relevant bits and repost them here... *(scratch that, better to just go to the original intro thread, pgs. 3-4 have most of the more scientific info)

Excellent summary. Yes, the open wounds are a particularly troublesome spot and potentially problematic for all growers.

We typically advise adding a drop of veg oil as a surfactant.

 

[Phyter]

View attachment 1306504

Very interesting! I like the method of action. I makes sense that it would work as represented based on the science. Not systemic but it does live in the plant cells. It is just not mobile. There is also some symbiosis. I think an application at the end of stretch makes the most sense for bud rot. Maybe once every couple of weeks for PM.

I would not hesitate to use this based on my short investigation.

Yes, precisely. For bud rot, you'd likely need a few applications during the elongated bloom period in order to capture new growth, and keep everything protected.

For PM, it's a bit more tricky. It would be a challenge for our product, to be honest. It would 100% need to get there prior to any incidence, and even then, I'm not sure we'd be 100% successful.

 

[Kyote]

@Phyter

Moved to Vancouver Island in 2019.

Plants got hit outdoors last year with bud rot. They were under a rain/mildew greenhouse tarp, which always worked for me in the Okanogan. Not here. Only took one stretch, a week with no wind and very high humidity, and hit with bud rot.

This year, going into a small greenhouse. I did monitor Rh and temps last outdoor season in the greenhouse, and the RH also spiked in there a bit as well.

The strains I am looking at growing are in the 7 to 8 week range for flowering, so that puts me a bit deeper into it than last year.

If you would like me to test it, I'll give it a go. I wouldn't need much, as there will be 2 photos, and didn't have any problems with autos last year.

Cheers!

 

[Phyter]

@Phyter

Moved to Vancouver Island in 2019.

Plants got hit outdoors last year with bud rot. They were under a rain/mildew greenhouse tarp, which always worked for me in the Okanogan. Not here. Only took one stretch, a week with no wind and very high humidity, and hit with bud rot.

This year, going into a small greenhouse. I did monitor Rh and temps last outdoor season in the greenhouse, and the RH also spiked in there a bit as well.

The strains I am looking at growing are in the 7 to 8 week range for flowering, so that puts me a bit deeper into it than last year.

If you would like me to test it, I'll give it a go. I wouldn't need much, as there will be 2 photos, and didn't have any problems with autos last year.

Cheers!

Will happily oblige. Sounds like a good spot to test out.
Thanks for reaching out.

 

[Kyote]

Will happily oblige. Sounds like a good spot to test out.
Thanks for reaching out.

Ok sounds good. Thanks!

 

[Phyter]

Wanted to jump in and mention again something @Waira has pointed out, and I hope was made clear last summer. Microbials are and can be wonderful remedies and solutions to many growers problems. But they aren't a silver bullet or panacea. The products my company make, are meant to be applied prior to incidence. We work best in areas where problems have been seen in the past, and the pathogen has been able to overwinter in furough or soil, and are waiting for new plantings to attach and become active again.

That being said, I'm curious as to the timeline of when everybody plants, and when things would need to be ready for?
Are there any growers from seed? or mostly clones?
Any interest in a trial with the product in a formulation to help clones/cuttings or seeds, to protect against soil/seed borne pathogens? In crops like lettuce, or even peas, we have success with better germination numbers, and better emergence. I know clonal loss can be a huge problem.

Cheers guys.