Red leaves a sign of maturing plants or a sign something is wrong??

[Dukeallday]

WW autos.
315 LEC about 18 inches away
3 by 3 tent
Fox farm trio nutes
Zero water
Ocean forest soil
Ok. I think or at least though these two plants were burnt. They are 57 days from seed and 2 out of 4 plants have these red leaves and the red color gets darker every day.

Does anyone think this is just a natural sign of maturing or is something wrong???

Any input or interest is very much appreciated.

 

[Micron Creek]

WW autos.
315 LEC about 18 inches away
3 by 3 tent
Fox farm trio nutes
Zero water
Ocean forest soil
Ok. I think or at least though these two plants were burnt. They are 57 days from seed and 2 out of 4 plants have these red leaves and the red color gets darker every day.

Does anyone think this is just a natural sign of maturing or is something wrong???

Any input or interest is very much appreciated.

Two questions to consider, temp and ph. Cold can cause different colors to become pronounced. As well improper ph can also cause nutrient uptake levels to be less than optimal. I just say ph because every one of your leaf tips has the classic upward curl. At day 57, it would seem natural that some autumn colors come through as its nearing the chop, and nutrients are being taken from the remaining leaves. Can only surmise this much from the pics.

 

[Rev. Green Genes]

Have you been flushing? Or just feeding water? that would cause a similar loss of chlorophyll. They don't look quite ready to harvest yet, but it looks like advanced stages of leaf senescence. You might want to try feeding with water, and using foliar sprays, like optic foliar. That would get the nutes to the leaves and [possibly allow photosynthesis to continue until harvest. There's not much else you can do this late in the game.

 

[Big Sur Holy]

I had the same issue with my white widow, I gave the plant a good cleanse with ph water and the leaves changed from red to yellowish green,


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[Heavily Medicated]

Just going off the pics, the plant is lacking in everything, hence I would bet that your medium pH has you in lock-out. First thing is to determine your mediums pH.

 

[Waira]

Duke-- a few things here,... lights might be too close; what's the temp and RH% in there ambiet, and more importantly, at the tops of the plants? This can magnify other problems,...
The color burnishing looks like P defc. starting, not bad-bad, but necrosis will start at this rate; bud set looks weak too,.... I don't think WW is known for coloring up, even in cold,..which you likely don't have! How about Ca-Mg? What dosage and sched' are you doing? I'm with HM, there's other defc.'s too,... S maybe (yellowing overall, P will contribute,.... possibly micronutes (Fe, Zn, Mn),... Like he said, an in-pot pH is needed to make the next call,... only so much to do at this late stage too,... if it's off pH in there, likely acidic given the nutes and especially that Fuxfarm soil (notorious for badly acidic soil), then adding more nutes to lock-out soil will really FUBAR things,.. if you;re lucky, it'll be a simple lack-of deal here, just need more nutes,....
So, soil pH,.. do you have a quality pH probe? If not, you're stuck with a crude run-off test,... we have an improved protocol here in the Infirmary, above this section,...

 

[Dukeallday]

Ok thanks for all the input.
Don't know soil ph. Honestly haven't checked runoff ph, but it's between 6.1-6.5 going in.
It's about 82 degrees max temp, about 74 coldest. He other two plants don't have it.
Haven't ran a set schedule of nutes, have given it Ca-mg once or twice.
Only zero water though it for the last maybe week or so now.

What type of soil would you all recommend trying next time?

 

[Micron Creek]

Ok thanks for all the input.
Don't know soil ph. Honestly haven't checked runoff ph, but it's between 6.1-6.5 going in.
It's about 82 degrees max temp, about 74 coldest. He other two plants don't have it.
Haven't ran a set schedule of nutes, have given it Ca-mg once or twice.
Only zero water though it for the last maybe week or so now.

What type of soil would you all recommend trying next time?

Soiless. Promix of any type, but if you can get the one with mycos it would be optimal. It can be treated exactly like soil, unlike coco which requires a lower ph range. I use the regular bale with Botanicare KIND, works like a dream compared to foxfarm. Some use Sunshine Mix [HASHTAG]#4[/HASHTAG] as their standard soiless.

 

[Waira]

get an Accurate 8 soil pH probe, and this mystery pH crap will be gone! What goes in does NOT reflect what the actual in-pot pH is,... you can check run-off pH collected from a clean saucer or something, to at least get an idea how bad it is in there,... when you do collect use water only, no nutes which will skew results,... zero water, you mean ppm's? Not the best for this,.. it has no buffering minerals in it, and ultra-pure water in depleted soil can pull nutes from the plant! A little Ca-Mg in the water is wise,....
If you want to stay with soils, Roots Organics is OK,.. many add a little extra lime and EWC to it,... otherwise, you'll have to list what you have locally,... I try different premium brands myself,.. Sanctuary Soils, Vermicrop this year,... --Peat based soilless like Promix or Sunshine [HASHTAG]#4[/HASHTAG] is great too, but you need to be on your nutes much sooner,... coco is a very different sort of deal, with lots of specific do's and don't's! Do plenty of homework on it before you try, read up on it's weird CEC (cation exchange properties), and understand the nutritional needs that differ from true soil,... even flushing, if needed MUST be dome differently, or you will FUBAR the CEC buffering in there,...