Indoor Sawneys White Gen3 and Knightmare, 420Scrog Method.

DOA

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These cultivars were started in 1" Rockwool cubes and then moved into a 4" Rockwool Block.

At 9 days old they were then moved into their forever home sat upon one an a half Hugos and their own 15L reservoirs. The nutrient solution is RO water starting of at 35ppm, General Hydroponics one part NovaMax Grow makes up the rest to start of at 300pm.

Over the next week small increments will be made to reach 650-700ppm by day 15, Ph is kept at 6.

These ladies are being watered 5 times daily for 4mins. A wire curly rod holds the main top over for 10-14 days.

The Migro Aray 2 lights are 30cm away on full intensity. The environment is kept at a constant 27C, 65RH.
 

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These cultivars were started in 1" Rockwool cubes and then moved into a 4" Rockwool Block.

At 9 days old they were then moved into their forever home sat upon one an a half Hugos and its own 15L reservoir. The nutrient solution is RO water starting of at 35ppm, General Hydroponics one part NovaMax Grow makes up the rest to start of at 700pm.

Over the next week small increments will be made to reach 1300ppm buy day 15, Ph is kept at 6.

These ladies are being watered 5 times daily for 4mins. A wire curly rod holds the main top over for 10-14 days.

The Migro Aray 2 lights are 30cm away on full intensity. The environment is kept at a constant 27C, 65RH.
Excellent information! I hadn't seen the link, thank goodness you mentioned it jajaja.Question, Before the 9 days, 350ppm in the 1.5 and 4" were there? Going up to 700ppm by day 9? And another thing, the automatic irrigation system, when you turned it on? In those 4 minutes, do you know approximately how much water + nutrients it moves? Thanks again xd
 
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Excellent information! I hadn't seen the link, thank goodness you mentioned it jajaja.Question, Before the 9 days, 350ppm in the 1.5 and 4" were there? Going up to 700ppm by day 9? And another thing, the automatic irrigation system, when you turned it on? In those 4 minutes, do you know approximately how much water + nutrients it moves? Thanks again xd
The 1" blocks are pre soaked in 300ppm solution before sowing. Days 1-3 above ground they are started of at 500ppm using a turkey baster, I don't measure how much, just enough to keep the block from drying out.

When I see the tap root appearing from the cube it gets plugged into the 4" block. I'll keep them in the nursery 27C, 75RH until day 7 and the first set of serrated leaves are truly green. By day 11 they're on 500ppm, once in the tent it's kept to 700ppm until mid to late flower where it might get upped to a max of 700-800 depending on how hungry they are.

The 4" block will then go into the waiting tent with the Hugos's mounted on top of their reservoirs. I turn on the automation straight away as I'm lazy, I don't worry about how much the ladies get in terms of quantity of water. The environment quickly drys the blocks out, you would be surprised. At a guess I would say probably 2litres in 4minutes. As the plants develop this will be increased, by mid-flower that will see each watering of 10mins upwards.

The pumps are only cheap Newa maxi jets.

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The 1" blocks are pre soaked in 600ppm solution before sowing. Days 1-3 above ground they are started of at 700ppm using a turkey baster, I don't measure how much, just enough to keep the block from drying out.

When I see the tap root appearing from the cube it gets plugged into the 4" block. I'll keep them in the nursery 27C, 75RH until day 7 and the first set of serrated leaves are truly green. By day 11 they're on 1000ppm, once in the tent it's kept to 1300ppm until mid to late flower where it might get upped to a max of 1700-1800 depending on how hungry they are.

The 4" block will then go into the waiting tent with the Hugos's mounted on top of their reservoirs. I turn on the automation straight away as I'm lazy, I don't worry about how much the ladies get in terms of quantity of water. The environment quickly drys the blocks out, you would be surprised. At a guess I would say probably 2litres in 4minutes. As the plants develop this will be increased, by mid-flower that will see each watering of 10mins upwards.

The pumps are only cheap Newa maxi jets.

View attachment 1735428
Thanks so much for the info! I'll be looking forward to your updates! I hope the wait isn't too long xd jajaja
 
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It's Day 18 and Day15 for the ladies, the copper stake has been moved daily to help shape the plant becoming to one sided. The EC has been kept at 1.2 and Ph6.

Starting Monday the feeding schedule will be upped to run the pump 5 times daily for 5 minutes.

Knightmare Day 15.

Screenshot 2025-04-04 at 13.56.19.png


White Gen 3 Day 18
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Day 23 for the larger WG3 and Day 20 for the Knightmarwe.

Both are coming along nicely, the White Gen will have the stake removed tomorrow to release the top. That would have been 14 days in total that she was staked. The smaller Knightmare has a few more days to go yet.

I'm hoping that I can get another 7-10 days veg time in from the WF before she gets flattened. The WG however is quiet advanced and I'd rather not flatten the KM before she's ready, I'll figure something out to remedy it.

The EC has been drifting up, with a couple of feeds going in at Ph7. Nothing a pump out and new nutrients wont sort though ;)

White Gen 3.

Screenshot 2025-04-08 at 19.19.51.png

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Knightmare Day 20

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Happy Growing ;) DOA
 
A week later and it's Day 30.

Ideally the WG on the left should have been framed up 2 or 3 days ago. The reason for the delay was that the Knightmare was playing catch-up. Once that frame is lowered it's difficult to manipulate a plant thats grown right up through.

They need a little tidying up, with side branches being temporarily held with garden wire to find their own squares but for the most part I'm happy. It's very important to get that canopy as low as possible which opens up the bud sights in the centre as the light is now spread even.

There's a bit more foliage that will go but essentially this part of the process is complete. I'll keep all of the tops that start growing up horizontal until we have all our bud sites. ;)

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Hey Deano thanks for sharing i love your plants.
Questions jajaja, distance from the light to the canopy? And if you have time, from now until the last schwazz, can you upload photos every 2 or 3 days or whenever you do something to see how it's changing? To get a more detailed idea of the processes and what you see as it grows, but only if you have time, otherwise, just checking every now and then would also help, lol. Thanks!

1 thing more, when you doing the scrog, What is the recommended height for the plant to remain? I mean, how tall should it be when I flatten it and lower the net?
 
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Hey Deano thanks for sharing i love your plants.
Questions jajaja, distance from the light to the canopy? And if you have time, from now until the last schwazz, can you upload photos every 2 or 3 days or whenever you do something to see how it's changing? To get a more detailed idea of the processes and what you see as it grows, but only if you have time, otherwise, just checking every now and then would also help, lol. Thanks!

1 thing more, when you doing the scrog, What is the recommended height for the plant to remain? I mean, how tall should it be when I flatten it and lower the net?
The main objective now is to keep all those tops horizontal. As each top turns to the light I either pass that top to the next square to keep it down or create a half square by dividing it with garden wire. They must stay as flat as possible, this is very important as the plant goes through it's stretch phase.

With regards to height this doesn't matter, if you have a frame like mine as the plant grows you can keep those side branches under the frame to allow the light to hit those nodes towards the centre of the plant.

The main factor when determining when to iron them out and super crop the branches is the actual stage of growth the plant is showing you. You want to super crop and defoliate shortly after you see pistols but before you go into full flower. This could be any where between 28-45 days or more.

Different plants have different genetics, some produce lots of leaf material, this is really unwanted for this method. If you go back through 420's Scrog thread you'll get a good idea of the cultivars you should be using.

If it helps I just keep the lights on full blast 30cm away from the canopy at all times.
 
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... The main objective now is to keep all those tops horizontal. As each top turns to the light I either pass that top to the next square to keep it down or create a half square by dividing it with garden wire. They must stay as flat as possible, this is very important as the plant goes through its stretch phase. ...

I had a hard time wrapping my head around the requirements for the 420 method, and the necessity of 'keeping the tops down'. Here's an example. In the first photo, I *temporarily* tipped two of the subordinate stems on the branch down, only to make them visible, to demonstrate. Those stems are in the approximately 1 o'clock and 3' clock positions in the photos. The 'top', aka the 'tippy top' of the stem is held horizontally with the net -- it's at about the 7 o'clock position in the photos. This tricks the plant into thinking it has 'lost its head' on that stem, so to speak, and stimulates it to put energy into its lower 'nodes', aka stems. In the second photo I have released the future 'lower' bud sites, that will grow faster/stronger until the trickery is removed from the 'tippy top' of the stem, and at that point, they will all work together in relative equality, and harmony. 🙂

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