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OK... so just starting on this... not refined or finished yet... but here goes:
Autoflowers typically take about 60-90 days from seed to harvest... There are some Super Autos that take 90-120 days from seed to harvest.
That said... the schedule is compressed... meaning any stunting or setbacks will drastically reduce total yields. This doesn't mean they are any harder to grow, just a little less forgiving with ph issues and other types of stress.
For more infor on this particular topic:
http://autoflower.net/forums/showth...ts-and-other-stress-issues?highlight=stunting
OK... so the basics then...
Autoflowers should be started in non-pre-ferted soil.. in other words the soil dhould not have any nutrients in it... Fox Farm Ocean forest, for example is considered pre-ferted soil. Pre-ferted soils tend to cause a high male to female ratio (typically around 80% males). So unless you're a breeder and want lots of pollen... dont do it.
Just a basic compost mix is fine.. preferably with lots of perlite so the soil is airy and promotes easy root growth.
Occasionally you may recieve seeds that "refuse to sprout"... often times this is caused by moisture picked up during shipping which makes the seed shell tend to be a little more stretchy rather than kinda brittle... so the seed will sweel and then not germinate because it is unable to crack the stretchy shell. In order to avoid this it is reccomended you allow about a week of low humidity and about 70-90 degress in order for the shell to dry back out. So if you try to start some seeds quick and they dont pop after about a week... you may want to dry the rest of them out a bit before re-attempting.
Germination: Few methods here... I'll just touch on it as there are many threads here discussing it.
1) direct in unferted soil (my personal preferred method) Ideally a seed should be put in point down (rounder side up) to give the emerging tap root the best advantage. Ultimately... just make sure the seed has about 1/2" of sol over it and its kept evenly MOIST. I stress moist because too often I've seen people confuse moist with damp... moist is just slightly damp to the touch... not soaked... make sure to check them daily to insure the soil doesn't dry out before germination.
2) Paper Towel... take aplastic ziplock bag... wet a paper towel (pretty damp) and place the seeds in the towel... fold around the seeds and place in the bag... keep in a warm place (60-80 Deg F) and check daily for sprouts... as soon as you see sprouts place them in your unferted soil... tap root down with just the top of the seed showing above the soil.
3) Water glass. Place your seeds in a glass of water (60-70 deg F).. allow to sit for 24-48 hours... viable seeds will stop floating and sink.. these should be placed in your soil. Bad seeds will continue to float.
OK... for the next phase I'll use Full Dplex's fert schedule to give an idea. I use a slightly modified version of this. Please keep in mind different varieties have slightly different nutrient requirements.
Originally Posted by John Mondello
fd... WHEN YOU SAY HIGH FERT SCHEDULE... WHAT ARE WE TALKIN HERE? WHAT STRNGTH AND HOW OFTEN? (REALLY STILL TRYIN TO GET A HANDLE ON THIS CRAZY-REDUCED FERT SCHED FOR AUTOS... STILL ADJUSTING!)
what i mean is that not all autos are the same lol
I have been growing the same genetic line for over a year now
and they all seem like they really like my fert schedule.
This is what i doi break it down as follows
First off let me talk about what i use as ferts. I have a 4 part system that i use and most of this is in the brain so please bare with me as i share this one.
I use FF grow big (hydro formula) Tiger Bloom and then two tea variations. One is high in N for veg and the other is high in Phosphorus when its time to flower.
I apply these through out the grow. I use the FF to get it started.
then i move to the teas and then back to the FF and then back to the teas
So i break it down like this:
FF GB is 3Tbsp/1Gal for heavy feedings. So in my mind this is more than enough for our fave friends. So it states that 2tbsp/1gal is for normal feedings so i use this as my base number. After that i break it down into 1/4
at 7 days i start like this
Day 7 1/4 dose to a gal
Day 14 1/2 dose to a gal + 8oz of N rated tea
Day 21 1tbsp GB and then 1/4 of TB (bringing in the TB)
Day 28 1/2 TB + 8oz of Phosphorus rated tea
Day 35 1.5 tbsp TB to a gal
Day 41 2tbsp of TB and 8oz of Phosphorus rated tea
Then Flush till finish unless it needs something at the end.
I think that this is everything that i do like i said i am not sure as this is all in my head. If the plants demand more that i give more this is just something to go by. I usually do not swap in clean water feedings at all over the fert program. I just use the jug then its gone. Now if i start to see over feeding or lockouts ill flush.
But if i keep my water on point i never usually see a lock out or toxicity.
Hope this helps
More to add... gotta collect my next set of thouhts...
JM
EDIT:
To prevent issues with "thick seed husks" or other types of germ issues... this works well also:
Place a small piece of 400 grit sandpaper into a matchbox (or similiar), place seeds into box also and shake a bit....it'll score the seeds, helping them crack open ......
place a small piece of 400 grit sandpaper into a matchbox (or similiar), place seeds into box also and shake a bit....it'll score the seeds, helping them crack open ......
Autoflowers typically take about 60-90 days from seed to harvest... There are some Super Autos that take 90-120 days from seed to harvest.
That said... the schedule is compressed... meaning any stunting or setbacks will drastically reduce total yields. This doesn't mean they are any harder to grow, just a little less forgiving with ph issues and other types of stress.
For more infor on this particular topic:
http://autoflower.net/forums/showth...ts-and-other-stress-issues?highlight=stunting
OK... so the basics then...
Autoflowers should be started in non-pre-ferted soil.. in other words the soil dhould not have any nutrients in it... Fox Farm Ocean forest, for example is considered pre-ferted soil. Pre-ferted soils tend to cause a high male to female ratio (typically around 80% males). So unless you're a breeder and want lots of pollen... dont do it.
Just a basic compost mix is fine.. preferably with lots of perlite so the soil is airy and promotes easy root growth.
Occasionally you may recieve seeds that "refuse to sprout"... often times this is caused by moisture picked up during shipping which makes the seed shell tend to be a little more stretchy rather than kinda brittle... so the seed will sweel and then not germinate because it is unable to crack the stretchy shell. In order to avoid this it is reccomended you allow about a week of low humidity and about 70-90 degress in order for the shell to dry back out. So if you try to start some seeds quick and they dont pop after about a week... you may want to dry the rest of them out a bit before re-attempting.
Germination: Few methods here... I'll just touch on it as there are many threads here discussing it.
1) direct in unferted soil (my personal preferred method) Ideally a seed should be put in point down (rounder side up) to give the emerging tap root the best advantage. Ultimately... just make sure the seed has about 1/2" of sol over it and its kept evenly MOIST. I stress moist because too often I've seen people confuse moist with damp... moist is just slightly damp to the touch... not soaked... make sure to check them daily to insure the soil doesn't dry out before germination.
2) Paper Towel... take aplastic ziplock bag... wet a paper towel (pretty damp) and place the seeds in the towel... fold around the seeds and place in the bag... keep in a warm place (60-80 Deg F) and check daily for sprouts... as soon as you see sprouts place them in your unferted soil... tap root down with just the top of the seed showing above the soil.
3) Water glass. Place your seeds in a glass of water (60-70 deg F).. allow to sit for 24-48 hours... viable seeds will stop floating and sink.. these should be placed in your soil. Bad seeds will continue to float.
OK... for the next phase I'll use Full Dplex's fert schedule to give an idea. I use a slightly modified version of this. Please keep in mind different varieties have slightly different nutrient requirements.
Originally Posted by John Mondello
fd... WHEN YOU SAY HIGH FERT SCHEDULE... WHAT ARE WE TALKIN HERE? WHAT STRNGTH AND HOW OFTEN? (REALLY STILL TRYIN TO GET A HANDLE ON THIS CRAZY-REDUCED FERT SCHED FOR AUTOS... STILL ADJUSTING!)
what i mean is that not all autos are the same lol
I have been growing the same genetic line for over a year now
and they all seem like they really like my fert schedule.
This is what i doi break it down as follows
First off let me talk about what i use as ferts. I have a 4 part system that i use and most of this is in the brain so please bare with me as i share this one.
I use FF grow big (hydro formula) Tiger Bloom and then two tea variations. One is high in N for veg and the other is high in Phosphorus when its time to flower.
I apply these through out the grow. I use the FF to get it started.
then i move to the teas and then back to the FF and then back to the teas
So i break it down like this:
FF GB is 3Tbsp/1Gal for heavy feedings. So in my mind this is more than enough for our fave friends. So it states that 2tbsp/1gal is for normal feedings so i use this as my base number. After that i break it down into 1/4
at 7 days i start like this
Day 7 1/4 dose to a gal
Day 14 1/2 dose to a gal + 8oz of N rated tea
Day 21 1tbsp GB and then 1/4 of TB (bringing in the TB)
Day 28 1/2 TB + 8oz of Phosphorus rated tea
Day 35 1.5 tbsp TB to a gal
Day 41 2tbsp of TB and 8oz of Phosphorus rated tea
Then Flush till finish unless it needs something at the end.
I think that this is everything that i do like i said i am not sure as this is all in my head. If the plants demand more that i give more this is just something to go by. I usually do not swap in clean water feedings at all over the fert program. I just use the jug then its gone. Now if i start to see over feeding or lockouts ill flush.
But if i keep my water on point i never usually see a lock out or toxicity.
Hope this helps
More to add... gotta collect my next set of thouhts...
JM
EDIT:
To prevent issues with "thick seed husks" or other types of germ issues... this works well also:
Place a small piece of 400 grit sandpaper into a matchbox (or similiar), place seeds into box also and shake a bit....it'll score the seeds, helping them crack open ......
place a small piece of 400 grit sandpaper into a matchbox (or similiar), place seeds into box also and shake a bit....it'll score the seeds, helping them crack open ......
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