New Grower Skatters perpetual DWC/Coco Grow Show

[SkatterBrayne]

The bottom leafs which is in the worst shape was the result of sitting in PH below 5 for two days... that was a few weeks ago an the situation corrected itself without further damage.


Last night it began to yellow drastically. I had fed at half strength, and due to evaporation / nute lockout the PPMs were 1000. I believe the yellowing is the result of the lockout, and the plants leeching nutrients from the fan leaves instead.

I let them sit in plain PH water for 5 hours this afternoon to try and flush them out, and resumed 1/4 strength feeding.

The on CJ has very minor damage, the white widow is in prestine condition. The on CJ in the pevious pics had been getting roughed up pretty badly. However, new growth looks fine and it has grown noticably over the last 48 hours which is a good sign. Im not sure how that didnt stunt her growth

I have read that damaged leaves dont repair themselves, so hopefully it just looks worse than it is.

 

[flat9]

Hmm, well at least it sounds like the situation is stabilizing. There are no mistakes, only lessons.

Curious... how does bubbling the water before adding nutes stabilize pH?

Also, on an unrelated note, what's the purpose of calmag and silica?

 

[SkatterBrayne]

Silica improves the strength of the cellular walls of plants. Its one of the most abundant ingredients in soil, but absent in H2O. It helps develop stronger, and thicker stems. It also helps them with stress resistance, from what I have read. That could partly be the reason for why that beat up CJ has grown over the last 48 hours despite her getting the everloving shit kicked out of her, by my untrained hands.

Bubbling the water for an extended amount of time allows the chlorine to dissipate from the water. Before bubbling, my PH would rise from 5 to 7 basically overnight. If you use well water or reverse osmosis it is unnecessary, however.

The calmag was bought incase i experience magnesium deficiency. Basically got it because if I need it, it would be unfortunate not to have it. I was relucant to use Epsom salts in hydro, because I knowsalts generally arent good. Also, i may have to buy an RO system (230 ppm tap water), and calmag is necessary in RO because ofnthe lack of trace minerals to buffer the PH

I also just bought General Hydroponics Rapid Start, and put 6 ml in the White Widow res just a few minutes ago. Im anxious to compare the root structures, and see how much of a difference it makes. I have heard it is pretty significant, but I will be sure to report my personal findings.

 

[Kanakamaoli808]

Sounds good bro you should also try to add a mixture of h2o2 or if on a budget hydro rush o2 WILL surfice I notice with a rapid root it'll allow the tap root to extend from the bottom allowing for the side roots to explore more horizontally. It is true that if you bubble the res and buckets like I do on a 24/7 time you will have less chance for the wrong type of bacteria and root rot from lack of O2 however i would not souly rely on the bubbles to keep temp and bacteria from forming that where h2o2 or o2 by hydrk rush will be of great use for preventitave maintenance.

Silica improves the strength of the cellular walls of plants. Its one of the most abundant ingredients in soil, but absent in H2O. It helps develop stronger, and thicker stems. It also helps them with stress resistance, from what I have read. That could partly be the reason for why that beat up CJ has grown over the last 48 hours despite her getting the everloving shit kicked out of her, by my untrained hands.

Bubbling the water for an extended amount of time allows the chlorine to dissipate from the water. Before bubbling, my PH would rise from 5 to 7 basically overnight. If you use well water or reverse osmosis it is unnecessary, however.

The calmag was bought incase i experience magnesium deficiency. Basically got it because if I need it, it would be unfortunate not to have it. I was relucant to use Epsom salts in hydro, because I knowsalts generally arent good. Also, i may have to buy an RO system (230 ppm tap water), and calmag is necessary in RO because ofnthe lack of trace minerals to buffer the PH

I also just bought General Hydroponics Rapid Start, and put 6 ml in the White Widow res just a few minutes ago. Im anxious to compare the root structures, and see how much of a difference it makes. I have heard it is pretty significant, but I will be sure to report my personal findings.

 

[SkatterBrayne]

Sounds good bro you should also try to add a mixture of h2o2 or if on a budget hydro rush o2 WILL surfice I notice with a rapid root it'll allow the tap root to extend from the bottom allowing for the side roots to explore more horizontally. It is true that if you bubble the res and buckets like I do on a 24/7 time you will have less chance for the wrong type of bacteria and root rot from lack of O2 however i would not souly rely on the bubbles to keep temp and bacteria from forming that where h2o2 or o2 by hydrk rush will be of great use for preventitave maintenance.

My res temps havent gotten above 74, but I had noticed some slight discoloration of the roots. I was using a cheap air pump but just uograded to a 70w commercial pump which is kicking out WAY more bubbles. I have been spraying the roots with some H2O2 to be safe, because root rot scares the hell out of me. I only saw 3% H2O2 at the store though. Do you reccomend the stronger food grade stuff? If so, where can you purchase it? The roots dont feel slimy or anything, so I hope its just the result of light leaks through the net cup which I just corrected.

 

[Kanakamaoli808]

Yeah I'd stay away from those cheap air pumps. Also 3% is fine you would have to double dosage what you'd normally use if you had 35% which you can find at any health food store. If not 02 by hydro rush will work I've used both at 1/2 strength with great results and of course healthy roots=happy high . Take it easy brother.

My res temps havent gotten above 74, but I had noticed some slight discoloration of the roots. I was using a cheap air pump but just uograded to a 70w commercial pump which is kicking out WAY more bubbles. I have been spraying the roots with some H2O2 to be safe, because root rot scares the hell out of me. I only saw 3% H2O2 at the store though. Do you reccomend the stronger food grade stuff? If so, where can you purchase it? The roots dont feel slimy or anything, so I hope its just the result of light leaks through the net cup which I just corrected.

 

[Kanakamaoli808]

BTW I'd watch out for root mite on starter seeds I've had a few on my auto assassin so it will also be safe to get some azatrol and sm-90 spray that on urbplants three times a week will help kill mold and insects essepically spider mites goodluck hope this helps bro.

My res temps havent gotten above 74, but I had noticed some slight discoloration of the roots. I was using a cheap air pump but just uograded to a 70w commercial pump which is kicking out WAY more bubbles. I have been spraying the roots with some H2O2 to be safe, because root rot scares the hell out of me. I only saw 3% H2O2 at the store though. Do you reccomend the stronger food grade stuff? If so, where can you purchase it? The roots dont feel slimy or anything, so I hope its just the result of light leaks through the net cup which I just corrected.

 

[SkatterBrayne]

Update

Critical Jacks: 22 Days Old
White Widow: 15 Days Old

So two of the three plants are doing very good, with the exception of the bride of Frankenstein on the right. Despite her getting smacked around, you can notice that she has actually continued to grow and wasn't stunted at all (Image #3). She has been vigorous from the onset. She was the first to sprout, the fastest out of the gate, had prolific branching early, and started to exude a skunky odor by day 10! Nothing I seem to do can slow her down...

So, I decided that she would be the ideal candidate to apply colloidal silver to, for a sex reversal KISS. I applied a thorough spraying of C.S to her this morning, and will continue to spray her down for the next two weeks in hopes of a complete reversal for some feminized pollen. Lets hope she can hold on long enough for me to get a jar full of her spunk.

My Second Critical Jack (Image #2) seems to be happy and healthy. Those brown spots on the leaves were the result of some PH down falling out of the syringe onto her leaves Stones slap.

The White Widow is 15 days old now, and is the one in the back of the tent (The last picture). She has been doing GREAT sofar, fingers crossed. Every morning I enter the tent and her leaves are pointed up towards the light. No signs of burn or deficiency, and her PPMs have remained steady around 500 (200~ out of the tap). Roots look GREAT, although I will hold off on root pictures for another few days to compare the effect of the Rapid Start.

 

[flat9]

What are all of the connectors/holes in that bucket for? It seems like there is one at the bottom for the purpose of drainage, another for the water level indicator tube (which is reconnected to an elbow at the top... not sure why this is necessary) and yet another straight connector at the top which seems to do nothing at all. Mind explaining?

 

[SkatterBrayne]

What are all of the connectors/holes in that bucket for? It seems like there is one at the bottom for the purpose of drainage, another for the water level indicator tube (which is reconnected to an elbow at the top... not sure why this is necessary) and yet another straight connector at the top which seems to do nothing at all. Mind explaining?

I liked having the sight tube connected at both ends, because it seemed cumbersome to try and secure it at the top with zip ties or whatever. It just didnt seem tidy to me. That other connector which has nothing attached to it is for me to be able to add water / nutes to the res without removing the lid.

I simply attach a length of hose to it, which has a funnel on the other end (A homemade beer bong, basically), and just pour the solution right in. Im hoping that later on when th plants are larger it will help me prevent damage to the roots and/or buds and stems breaking off because I have to move the plant every time I feed