Indoor Spelsylver's Dragon Adventures

i'm going to try the AN line.after seeing Jackal's work.....i'm SOLD!!
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Day 3

thanks for the input guys. I think i'm going to run 1 chem line and 1 organic line.

Mr.Nice, I will also be trying the AN line. Sensi A+B plus some bud candy i got for free from my hydro shop. Dropped $50 for both veg and bloom nutes. got a $10 discount plus a free bottle of bud candy - not bad.

for the organic nutes i'll be using Blue Mountain Organics. I can't remember who here has used this stuff but i remember a while back it being recommended as some really good stuff. I'm going to give it a go, considering how cheap the set of 4 bottles is - $25.00.
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Here is a discription of their Grow It Green Veg:


"Grow It Green", is one of the newest products from Blue Mountain Organics. This 16 ounce bottle makes 32 gallons of fertilizer with an NPK, which averages 5-2-5.


The ingredients are Artesian Spring Water, High Nitrogen Bat Guano, Worm Castings, Azomite, Unsulphured Molasses, Humic Acid, Beet Root Extract, Comfrey Hay Extract, Alfalfa Meal Extract, Endo and Ecto Bacteria..
These ingredients are processed by first oxygenating them for a week in a special tea brewer, then the mix is pasturized, cooled, strained and filtered to remove sediments. The endo and ecto bacteria strains are added later. Ensuring only positive microorganisms are present.

This concentrated fertilizer, requires mixing prior to use. One half ounce to one gallon of chlorine free water. It provides both a highly soluble feeding solution and disease protection from the endo and ecto bacteria.


Grow It Green may be watered in, mixed into a hydroponics reservior, or sprayed directly on the leaves of your plants, up until one week prior to harvest : for fruits, nuts and vegetables. If used as a foliar spray, it is best applied on the underside of your plants leaves, when temperatures are not high. Early morning or late evening are best.

This product has a 1.5 year shelf life. The date it was bottled is provided, in each store listing. New batches are produced each month.

To make it a little simpler im applying the chem nutes to the thunders and the organics to the bobbys...

Do i use cal/mag throughout the whole grow with these nutes? i've only ever used Dutch Master, which has plenty cal/mag already in it...

This super hydro mix from Sunshine is full of perlite. Here's what the lil buggers look like at day 3...inside the cup is promix, down in the pot is the super hydro mix.

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The ingredients of the super hydro: blend of 35-45% horticultural grade preliet, Canadian Sphagnum peat moss, forest product compost, composted sofwood bark, fertilizer, worm castings, mycorrihizae and organic wetting agent.

here's some additional info on it incase anyone was wondering...
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So far 15 out of the 24 seedlings have come up out of the ground and are living to see day 4. 10 out of the 15 are in 7 quart pots (almost 2 gallons) The remaining 5 are still in solo cups...2 out of those solo cuppers are runts and i'll be trashing them if they don't make a turn around by the end of the week. The remaining 3 i will save for the Party Cup Competition grow if any show female :D

Sorry for all the wordiness guys, but i like to keep a detailed record of the run down...that way for future grows i can referance my journals. Hopefully, this will help out some newbies who are reading as well! Thanks for any and all who stop by :toke:
 
I wanted to add this list of some of the most important microbes and what they do...I posted this info way back in my 'teas for dwc' thread. It's a good break down of how each microbe work and if you're someone like me, who needs to know how things work and why they are needed, then this may be helpful for you too.

Bacillus - The unifying characteristic of Bacillus bacteria is that they are Gram-positive, form endospores, and grow in the presence of O2. The trivial name assigned to them is aerobic sporeformers.

Bacillus subtilis
- (Bacillus uniflagellatus, Bacillus globigii, Bacillus natto) Bacillus subtilis cells are rod-shaped bacteria that are naturally found in soil and vegetation. Bacillus subtilis grow in the mesophilic temperature range. The optimal temperature is 25-35 degrees Celsius. Stress and starvation are common in this environment, therefore, Bacillus subtilis has evolved a set of strategies that allow survival under these harsh conditions. Bacillus subtilis bacteria are non-pathogenic. They can contaminate food, however, they seldom result in food poisoning. They are used on plants as a fungicide. They are also used on agricultural seeds, such as vegetable and soybean seeds, as a fungicide. The bacteria, colonized on root systems, compete with disease causing fungal organisms. Bacillus subtilis use as a fungicide fortunately does not affect human.

Paenibacillus polymyxa - Nitrogen fixer and plant growth-promoting rhizobacterium with a broad host range. Fluorescence microscopy and electron scanning microscopy indicated that the bacteria colonized predominantly the root tip, where they formed biofilms.
Certain bacteria are capable of fixing nitrogen. In this process, nitrogen gas (N2) is converted to ammonium (NH4+), a form of nitrogen that is biologically available to plants. The reaction is catalyzed by the enzyme nitrogenase. Because nitrogenase is inactivated by oxygen, the reaction must occur in a low oxygen environment. (So we don't get much of this in a DWC)

Bacillus amyloliquefaciens - strains of B. amyloliquefaciens bacteria, which occur in association with certain plants, are known to synthesize several different antibiotic substances, including bacillaene, macrolactin, and difficidin. Among NRPS antibiotics, Bacillus amyloliquefaciens was found to produce surfactin, iturin A, fengycin A and fengycin B. By modifying cell surface properties, surfactin and iturin were reported to positively influence cell spreading, swarming and biofilm formation and thus may globally favour plant root colonization. Furthermore, iturins and fengycins display strong antifugal activity and are inhibitory for the growth of a wide range of plant pathogens.

Another recently established role for lipopeptides from beneficial Bacillus isolates is the stimulation of the plant immune system. Surfactins and, to a lesser extent, fengycins can induce a priming state in host plant which allows an accelerated activation of defense responses upon pathogen or insect attack, leading to an enhanced resistance to the attacker encountered.

Trichoderma harzianum is a fungus that is also used as a fungicide. It is used for foliar application, seed treatment and soil treatment for suppression of various disease causing fungal pathogens. Trichoderma readily colonizes plant roots and some strains are rhizosphere competent i.e. able to grow on roots as they develop. Trichoderma spp. also attack, parasitize and otherwise gain nutrition from other fungi. They have evolved numerous mechanisms for both attack of other fungi and for enhancing plant and root growth. Different strains of Trichoderma control almost every pathogenic fungus for which control has been sought.

Glomus intradices - In numerous scientific studies G. intraradices has been shown to increase phosphorus uptake in multiple plants as well as improve soil aggregation due to hyphae. In hydro the hyphae greatly increase the surface area of the roots. Helps in displacement of harmful microbes by depriving them of housing and food.

The plant will actually sense the presence of microbes, and send some food down to the roots for them. This can appear as a very slight coating of slime. (DWC peeps, know the difference between this slime and root rot.)

Plant-derived compounds are responsible for providing the additional carbon that allows the rhizosphere to host a large variety of organisms. These compounds fall into five categories: exudates, secretions, mucilages, mucigel, and lysates.

Exudates include surplus sugars, amino acids, and aeromatics that diffuse out of cells to the intercellular space and surrounding soil.

Secretions are byproducts of metabolic activity.

Mucilages are cells sloughed off the root cap as the root grows.

Mucigel is a slime coating the surface of a root that increases the connectivity between plant roots and the surrounding soil.

Lysates from within the cell become available to the surrounding microbial community when an epidermal root cell dies and is broken open
 
A friend of mine in Mass. turned me on to BMO...some reputable stuff...it was my first venture into nutes...highly recommended. Be sure to keep the caps loose on ya bottles.
 
A friend of mine in Mass. turned me on to BMO...some reputable stuff...it was my first venture into nutes...highly recommended. Be sure to keep the caps loose on ya bottles.

Thanks a bunch Auto, i was hoping someone would chime in on this stuff. Can't wait to give it a go. Did you follow the feeding schedule? I've read some people using double to dosages but i wasn't sure if they were running autos or not...
 
Day 7

Out of the 24 seeds, 13 made it into the tent. 8 Bobbys and 5 Thunders. 10 seeds never germinated and 2 were runts that i tossed.

Here's the gang all snuggled in the tent.
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The one's on the right are the bobbys, including the 3 in the 7 gallon smart pot (i ran out of pots) and the 5 on the left are the thunders. I took TBM's idea and placed them all in pots...going to rip out the males as they come in and leave the females. Hoping to get 8-10 females.

My only question for now is: When do i start feeding these babies?

In my dwc buckets i would wait a full 30 days. This is my first grow with any medium base so im not sure if i should start feeding earlier. I decided to scratch the Advanced Nutrients and instead am going with Blue Mountain Organics for the Bobbys and Earth Juice for the Thunders. (both organic)


All of the babies are about this size
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I would hit them with the EJ early and often. I have used it a few times and it don't seem to have a lot of power. Meaning if you do run a little sort on N it's not going to immediately fix the problem. Although I have not made a tea with it like I should have. Are you using tap water? Are you planning to ph it?
 
I would hit them with the EJ early and often. I have used it a few times and it don't seem to have a lot of power. Meaning if you do run a little sort on N it's not going to immediately fix the problem. Although I have not made a tea with it like I should have. Are you using tap water? Are you planning to ph it?

thanks for the input Cave Dirt. when you say hit em early, you mean like the next time i water them (a few days from today) or in a couple weeks? I'm using RO water ph'ed between 5.8-6.5.
 
Give it to them. It won't harm them. Your ph will be in the lower 5's after adding the EJ. Hydro organics says to use tap water. The only reason I can come up with is the buffering ability of a harder water. Bubbling will also raise ph slightly. Maybe adding some cal mag to 125ppm would help. EJ has put out there own ph up and down. Had to be a reason.

Goggle the three little birds/earth juice. You should be able to find all the info you need.
 
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