Auto Gorilla OG Day 52 SHE'S A MONSTER!

Auto Gorilla OG Day 40 12/14/19

Today's report
Auto Gorilla OG Day 40
High Temp 81
Average temp is 75
Low temp 68
High RH 58%
Average Rh is 55%
Low RH 38%
Nutrients- ph'd down to 5.58
2.5 ml of silica, 4 ml of house and garden coco part A & B, 2ml Liquid Kool Bloom, 5ml of diamond nectar, 2ml of hydroguard, 1/8th tsp yucca powder.
(all per gallon).
PPM 729 .
EC 1453

Auto Gorilla continues to exceed my expectations. I did not consider that this plant is sitting under 2 auto cobs and doesn't have any other plants to compete with. she is quickly getting out of control. There is now more space to train her. I don't know what to do. :shrug:
the only solution I can think of to optimize on the full potential of this awesome pheno is to give her more light and more space. I will have to spring for more cobs and a bigger tent soon. I've never had my shit dialed in to the point where the plant growing to big was a problem. Guess it's time to upgrade.
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IMG_20191218_095532474[1].jpg

Comments

Steviestash
Looking good just in case you didn't know you can add pages to your blog entries so you don't have to keep making blog entries to update the same plants
 
Beerhunter CDN
@Stroke1 - some advice if you’re open to it with nothing but good intentions to help you along. It’s completely fine if you don’t, I won’t be offended. For Coco Coir your pH should be between 5.8 and 6.4. I usually start at a lower pH and increase as the plant gets older. At this stage, you should be watering to run off every feeding. Did you add perlite to your coco? What brand of coco do you use? Do you rinse it and precharge it? I would also increase your feed gradually until you see the tips start to burn and then back them off.
 
S
Beerhunter CDN said:
@Stroke1 - some advice if you’re open to it with nothing but good intentions to help you along. It’s completely fine if you don’t, I won’t be offended. For Coco Coir your pH should be between 5.8 and 6.4. I usually start at a lower pH and increase as the plant gets older. At this stage, you should be watering to run off every feeding. Did you add perlite to your coco? What brand of coco do you use? Do you rinse it and precharge it? I would also increase your feed gradually until you see the tips start to burn and then back them off.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the input. I usually pH down to 5.5 because the pH in my reservoir raises on it's own. My PH will jump from 5.5 to about 6.2 in 3 days or so. My system is an auto drip, drain to waste system and I have my timer set to water to run off 6 times per day. My coco is from house and garden. It comes rinsed and buffered (it better for 30 bucks). So far it's been great. I'm using house and garden, coco base nutrients. It has been good so far. Easy to use, the plants seem to like it and it comes with cal mag in it so that's one less bottle that I have to buy and mix in. I have been increasing my nutes slowly but I just backed off a little bit because a few of my leaves are dark green and some tips are clawing a bit . My humidity has been good so I believe they have been getting a little too much nitrogen. It's about that time to start flowering so I backed off of the base nutes a little and added liquid Kool bloom. So I'm getting a little less nitrogen and more P & K. We'll see what happens.

Thanks again for chiming in. Any info is appreciated .
 
AJrexxx
Looking good. Just my two cents do not over due the PPMs especially if you are watering six times a day. There is now point getting up over 800 if you are constantly suppling it more food which you are. You might want to make sure you get some run off to keep build up from happening.

Sorry if none of that makes sense a little blazed right now. :vibe:
 
S
AJrexxx said:
Looking good. Just my two cents do not over due the PPMs especially if you are watering six times a day. There is now point getting up over 800 if you are constantly suppling it more food which you are. You might want to make sure you get some run off to keep build up from happening.

Sorry if none of that makes sense a little blazed right now. :vibe:
Click to expand...
I've been reading even more about ppm and ec and you were absolutely right on point. I started getting white tips on my Killer Kush the day after you posted this. However, this Auto Gorilla OG is a beast. She is taking everything I throw at her and just getting bigger. I took the Killer Kush out of my 3x3 tent because I believe my girl Gorilla OG will benefit from the extra light, space and airflow. The Killer Kush is a photo anyway and I want to put her on 12/12 to finish her out, so sadly she will be a closet grow.
.
 
AJrexxx
M
Stroke1 said:
I've been reading even more about ppm and ec and you were absolutely right on point. I started getting white tips on my Killer Kush the day after you posted this. However, this Auto Gorilla OG is a beast. She is taking everything I throw at her and just getting bigger. I took the Killer Kush out of my 3x3 tent because I believe my girl Gorilla OG will benefit from the extra light, space and airflow. The Killer Kush is a photo anyway and I want to put her on 12/12 to finish her out, so sadly she will be a closet grow.
.
Click to expand...
My timing is rarely ever that good, glad you noticed it though sometime people get a few beast plants in a row and they will take anything so they think that is what you do every time. I learned the 800 number through trial and error and a lot of conversations with other coco growers in the coco forum. 800 seems to not burn the finicky plants but not starve the monsters. It is of course a general rule as if at 800 I get some tips going I back it down 100 and then go back up in a week. Some of it goes back to your original post about flavor I had some monsters that I took up to 1100 or so and I could taste it in the end product. White Widow and Blackberry Kush they both were monsters but it was subtle I could taste the metallic if that makes sense. Besides nutes are not cheap no need just flushing them away.
 
S
I agree. I cut my base nutrients in half because I just started my bloom booster and added humic acid. I was getting my humic acid from recharge but decided to go bottle. Hard to keep microbes in a system that is drain to waste. Can't put recharge in my res so diamond nectar was my second best choice. My ppm clicked in at 710. My plant is already praying from her 7am feed.

I'm going to add a grow update in a bit. Baby girl has taken over the whole tent. She is completely exceeding my expectations. I may never go back to soil.
 
T
Stroke1 said:
Thanks for the input. I usually pH down to 5.5 because the pH in my reservoir raises on it's own. My PH will jump from 5.5 to about 6.2 in 3 days or so. My system is an auto drip, drain to waste system and I have my timer set to water to run off 6 times per day. My coco is from house and garden. It comes rinsed and buffered (it better for 30 bucks). So far it's been great. I'm using house and garden, coco base nutrients. It has been good so far. Easy to use, the plants seem to like it and it comes with cal mag in it so that's one less bottle that I have to buy and mix in. I have been increasing my nutes slowly but I just backed off a little bit because a few of my leaves are dark green and some tips are clawing a bit . My humidity has been good so I believe they have been getting a little too much nitrogen. It's about that time to start flowering so I backed off of the base nutes a little and added liquid Kool bloom. So I'm getting a little less nitrogen and more P & K. We'll see what happens.

Thanks again for chiming in. Any info is appreciated .
Click to expand...

Regarding the increase in pH - some things to consider:

You might have luck letting your water settle for a few hours, after pouring from your source. Dissolved gas concentrations are higher for liquids under pressure, and these gases influence pH.

It may be as simple as mixing your solution more during pH adjustment. A good rule of thumb is to wait one minute after your final reading, and repeat the measurement. Some drift in measured value is expected for unbuffered solutions or if using an imprecise probe, but directional trends indicate an acid-base reaction of some sort, of poor kinetics.

What I'd suggest is to prepare a buffered solution. A buffered solution will maintain a tight pH range until the 'buffer capacity' of the solution is overwhelmed. pH calibration standards are prepared in this way, and as such can accommodate small additions of water or acid/base without the pH of the solution changing. It's really easy to do, and you've likely done it before without realizing. I'd go over the chemistry of it more but this is already getting long.

Essentially, you want to add a controlled amount of either pH up or pH down, and then add the opposite slowly, such that the solution pH reaches your desired pH. You'll find that such a solution can accommodate additions of acid or base without the pH changing appreciatively, until the buffering capacity is overwhelmed. So, if more buffering capacity is desired, add more of your initial adjusting solution (pH up or down) and proceed as normal. However, be aware that pH up and pH down will both contribute to your EC, as we're talking about adding more ions to the solution.

Slow kinetics with multistep reactions are likely the cause of your issue. The buffering capacity of such a solution will accommodate any late comers, without the pH changing in the res.
 
S
trentlock said:
Regarding the increase in pH - some things to consider:

You might have luck letting your water settle for a few hours, after pouring from your source. Dissolved gas concentrations are higher for liquids under pressure, and these gases influence pH.

It may be as simple as mixing your solution more during pH adjustment. A good rule of thumb is to wait one minute after your final reading, and repeat the measurement. Some drift in measured value is expected for unbuffered solutions or if using an imprecise probe, but directional trends indicate an acid-base reaction of some sort, of poor kinetics.

What I'd suggest is to prepare a buffered solution. A buffered solution will maintain a tight pH range until the 'buffer capacity' of the solution is overwhelmed. pH calibration standards are prepared in this way, and as such can accommodate small additions of water or acid/base without the pH of the solution changing. It's really easy to do, and you've likely done it before without realizing. I'd go over the chemistry of it more but this is already getting long.

Essentially, you want to add a controlled amount of either pH up or pH down, and then add the opposite slowly, such that the solution pH reaches your desired pH. You'll find that such a solution can accommodate additions of acid or base without the pH changing appreciatively, until the buffering capacity is overwhelmed. So, if more buffering capacity is desired, add more of your initial adjusting solution (pH up or down) and proceed as normal. However, be aware that pH up and pH down will both contribute to your EC, as we're talking about adding more ions to the solution.

Slow kinetics with multistep reactions are likely the cause of your issue. The buffering capacity of such a solution will accommodate any late comers, without the pH changing in the res.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info. The pH fluctuations have subsided. I wasn't giving my reservoir time to settle after mixing it. Now I get my reservoir to my desired pH lvl, wait 2 hours and then test it. 10 times out of 10, it will jump from a 5.7 to about a 6.1. I'm currently in flower so that PH range is good for me. After it hits 6-6.1, it stays there. Also, my reservoir was too big. I believe this contributed to the pH increase. I went from a 12 gallon res back to a 7. This means my res is changed out more frequently which is probably best for the plant. Even with the air stone, my res gets a bit cloudy and develops floaters after about 4-5 days.
 

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Overview Auto Gorilla OG day 30/ Killer Kush photo day 22 update Auto Gorilla OG day 33/ Killer Kush photo day 25 update Auto Gorilla OG Day 40 12/14/19 Auto Gorilla OG Day 52 She's A MONSTER! View full entry

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