Autoflower Tutorials

Learn about popular cultivation techniques through user collaborated guides, strategies, and tutorials!
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I've noticed there is nothing on the forum about terpenoids so thought I would throw up a little info from the web. Have you ever wondered how the strain Blue Dream can smell so similar to fresh blueberry doughnuts? Or how a sniff of the K.O. Kali-O seems to burst with citrus just like a California Orange? Yes, it is the cannabis. More specifically, what you are really smelling (and tasting) are terpenes. Terpenes are a large and varied class of hydrocarbons (made up of hydrogen and carbon), produced by a wide variety of plants and also, some insects. Terpenes are referred to as terpenoids when denatured by oxidation (like being dried and cured) or chemically altered by some rearrangement of the carbon skeleton. They are...
Was wondering thoughts on using well water on plants? I also have access to pond water as well. Will be using a soil/peat/perlite mix. I will be starting my first grow in next few weeks and trying to have everything planned out to the last detail before I start germination when seeds arrive. I will have my ph water tester tomorrow and can check levels then. Well is spring fed with no water softener.
I repost this as I now think I figured out why the P got so low. 1000 kg grass dry weight removed from the soil take away: 30kg Nitrogen(N) 3,5kg Phosphorus(P) 30kg Potassium(K) 4kg Sulfur(S) Or in grams 30'000g(N), 3'500g(P), 30'000g(K), 4'000g(S) Reduce it to a kilo dry weight grass we get 30g(N)-3,5g(P)-30g(K) and 4g(S) Most of us don't grow 1 kilo plants so let us do a final reduction to a 100g dry weight plant 3g(N)-0,35g(P)-3g(K) and 0.4g(S) that is what it takes to make 100 grams grass. These numbers are for grass(for horse and cows). Can this be useful when growing Cannabis if we adjust the numbers? Why do the P get so low? I think the answer is when harvesting grass you don’t remove the roots, so what ever is left of P...
I've been pondering this question. I have a bunch of auto seeds and I'm a noob-grower but I've seen several folks say that while noobs choose autos for their simplicity in lighting, they really aren't the best choice due to the fixed growing period and the likelyhood of messing things up and getting less yield than an experienced grower can. So I thought: if I planted a photo and thereafter took clones from it, would it be close to the speed of a 80-90 day auto?
I started my first grow in my basement in a tent but had some humidity/water problems so I moved the whole thing to an unused bedroom. My tent has been in there now for a few weeks and everything's going great except that my plant is busting out of the tent...it's at the tent walls, and it's getting close to the top. I started wondering; if I'm providing the proper humidity and temp for that bedroom then why use a tent at all? My exhaust only vents into the bedroom, I open the door every morning to get fresh air in but the rest of the time, it's closed. What are the pros and cons of not using a tent at this point? Do I even need an exhaust fan if I just use the bedroom? Just wondering out loud..could use some advice.
I have one NL auto that I planted and she broke ground on the 24th of Sept which makes her 8 days old today. I noticed that her leaves are almost the width of the solo cup and decided to take a look and see if she's got roots yet and sure enough there is one root sticking out of the bottom hole of the cup about 3/8" It's time to transplant...right? I don't want a bunch of roots sticking out. So...I just want to get things straight in my head before taking the next step..this sort of snuck up on me. I water the destination container which is the Autopot until run-off. True? I water the solo cup until run off....true? Then do I wait until the next say or how long to transplant? I want the soil to be moist but not soggy...true? I'm...

90f

Still waiting for my new fan to arrive, my grow room 60x90x90 are 90f/32c, hoping to get the temp down to 80f as soon as I get the fan up and running. Girls are 4 weeks now and after topping at 5th node the Northern Lights are 12cm and the Royal Haze are 15cm tall. 2 x China LED, actual wattage are 32w each. 1 gallon pots, they are short but looks healthy. Hopefully lower the temp will make them grow faster ;)
I have a question about the whole PPM thing with nutes. I bought a PPM meter and have been checking my nute water. I keep it at betwen 600ppm and 800ppm as someone suggested. When I use GreenLeaf's Megacrop + Sweet Candy + Bud Explosion at 1/2 dose, it reads as about 700ppm. I was wondering this; my water has 150ppm to 200ppm anyway and so this figures into the PPM equation. Does that mean that I can actually up the nutes to 800-1000 because my water is supplying the other 200ppm? I guess I'm just not sure what it all means.
I am planning a continuous grow under 1 light. I will be running various autos. I will be using lst. Is 12 weeks from sprout to harvest a good generic timeline for planning? Im thinking starting 1 plant every 2 weeks. But thatd be EXTREMELY reliant on everything following that 12 week line almost perfect as my tent wont hold 6 flowering plants. Im ok with it being just a little early or just a little late. I guess the real question... Would the pros/experienced consider the 12th week of MOST autos within the harvest window? I know genetics and phenos wil vary... Thats why i am asking for a very generalized answer. Yes or no... And what week if not would be best to plan? Thanks in advance committing 1 crime to avoid commiting...
I have done my first topping but I have no clue if I did the cut at the right node. As I cut at 5th node I will get about 10 colas. What I want to ask is if there are any thumb rule for how many nodes/colas that os reccomended per liter soil? I guess a 10 liter pot handle a 10 colas better than a 2 liter pot
Hi all, as the title suggests...do you think there's an ideal amount of tops an autoflower should have before yield diminishes? For example, the reasons I ask is because I have never been able to achieve those big long 'donkey' colas that I see from so many growers on here, despite following the same regimes etc. Lighting is not my issue, nor is nutrients. Could be unstable temperatures (ranges from 22-26c), could be too much training, which I suspect... I have always trained (ponytailed from day 14, LST, leaf tucking, lollipopping) etc and have always endeavoured to get the maximum amount of tops per plant - sometimes this results in up to 12-18 small to medium 'dominant' colas - but none of these colas exceed, say, 4-5 inches in...
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