New Grower berry ryder and sour diesel

[sativalover]

might want to look at this spectrum chart to see i am not talkin' out my ass at what i rec as the kind

of light

you can see it really isn't practical to even compair this light to conventional hid lights

the lumens are less but we already know that this isn't as important to the plant as it is for us blue is important for nitrogen usage and will increase fruiting sites reduce elongation found commonly when using hps for some strains more than others and you will experience more rapid growth during veg phase which will inturn give a bigger plant going into flower and that is just going into flower
well noted led lights w/o blue spectrum do not preform as well
also noted in the rather over priced but industry standard of the "EYE" which offered the balance to aid growth for hid lights
the plant adapts to the light we give it that doesn't inturn make it the best for it
a plant will struggle to survive on a incandescent bulb while it can
ever see a hid chart for other bulbs close to this broad spectrum ???

less heat than in a normal hps also so it can be placed closer which we know distance from point of source is the enemy to us

i could still go on but it shows clear
the reason this isn't really jumped on is because of all the other advancements made in lighting now and predicted future this is the reason they don't even advertize as aplant bulb or make a 1,000 watter for that matter they don't know yet if it is profitable enough in the future
and the price is much cheaper than the average horticulture taylored bulbs

 

[swampman]

ok well shit IM sold on this .....I did read on them a few times before but u have shown me the light so to say ...I could never find charts just numbers and the Infamous sales pitches put by marketeers for sales.

I appreciate the help u have provided so this could be my new theory ...a good frind Runs the HPS 400 with a 135 LED blended in ...so what im gonna do and have seen Muddy and cres speaking of this ....IM going MH now and then LED blend sound good fellas ....best of both worlds ....I have a UFO i will let help for now ...come christmas ILl have me that LED i want ....Ill be a good boy and Santa will bless me .....



Thanks again sativa that was awesome bro.....

 

[swampman]

JasL is spot on Bro about the HPS... Especially with Autos you don't need mh or that spectrum to succeed. I use the mh spectrum with my supplemental lighting so you could consider that route but if it were me I would go HPS over mh for sure. One thing that makes me not switch to led is some growers have issues with their pots not drying out fast enough... especially in veg because you have to have the light higher in veg with leds... So that always turned me off because in my set up my girls dry out in 2 days sometimes... 3 days on average. So consider your setup and if you go with led just be prepared to have to supplement that heat you would get from the HPS or more air flow in there to keep your pots drying out good. Just my man... Someone can correct me if I'm wrong but, that's just what I gathered in my research of leds...


so reb man im busy but maybe tomorrow ill show u a diagram ....my plan is and ok no MH Hps i see ur proof everyday .......SO its 3x4x5 top shelf in a closet i can easily fan filter to the attick with no tubing needed,,,, have the BIg light up top and i have the 100w cfl lateral side she is 6500k i believe 8,000 ...on the left side i have the T5HO 2 foot 4 bulb run 2 bloom 2 veg the veg are 6500k the bloom 3000k ....

So i have what 55,000 from top and 16000, from each side .....the close stays cool very cool in winter so heat wouldnt be an issue!!!!!! ....any way i hope ya can picture what im saying ......use the ufo on a lower shelf to veg with ....

 

[sativalover]

1. ok well shit IM sold on this .....I did read on them a few times before but u have shown me the light so to say ...I could never find charts just numbers and the Infamous sales pitches put by marketeers for sales.

   [*] +
   [*]

   I appreciate the help u have provided so this could be my new theory ...a good frind Runs the HPS 400 with a 135 LED blended in ...so what im gonna do and have seen Muddy and cres speaking of this ....IM going MH now and then LED blend sound good fellas ....best of both worlds ....I have a UFO i will let help for now ...come christmas ILl have me that LED i want ....Ill be a good boy and Santa will bless me .....​

   [*] +
   [*]

   Sorry Jasl I am gonna go with this and then we can still make good buds lol .....​

   [*] +
   [*]

   Thanks again sativa that was awesome bro.....​

   ​
2. -
   
   
   i am there on your idea been looking to add extra leds around lights also to keep lower heat levels while adding extra light​
4. -
   
   really wished they made 1000 watt ceramic metal halide bulbs
   we will see them in the future i am sure​

 

[swampman]

i am there on your idea been looking to add extra leds around lights also to keep lower heat levels while adding extra light

really wished they made 1000 watt ceramic metal halide bulbs
we will see them in the future i am sure

well shit i got side tracted with a lady drunk at 2 am but i was just gonna post the lights so now i can she got what she needed and shes snoring !!!!!!!.....ahhaah

http://www.htgsupply.com/Product-HTGSupply-Ultimate-400w-HPS-&-MH-Grow-Light.asp
http://www.htgsupply.com/Product-HTGSupply-400-watt-High-Pressure-Sodium-Grow-Light.asp
http://www.htgsupply.com/Product-HTGSupply-400-Watt-Ceramic-Metal-Halide-Grow-Light.asp
http://www.htgsupply.com/Product-FLORALUX-400-watt-High-Pressure-Sodium-Grow-Light.asp

so this is some ideas they have the 400w ceraminc .....and theres always ebay looking at these price ranges ...ebay had some good deals before on used tho ...so i dont mind paying 20 dollars for warranty !!!!

some ideas which is better the flora lux seem perfect for the dimensions and the square footage i need cause ill have the flo and cfl from other sides ....4 plants in 1 gal should make some ahummmm nice buds as long as the proper yada yada goes on .....

 

[swampman]

i really love the OG cheese too nice calm realxing buzz worked like a champ all day no pain and even showed young boys HoW to push some Food !!!!!!.......

 

[swampman]

hey there fellas .....today was one of those days almost all the ladies needed a lil TLC ...have PH issues with 2 BRs now ...and BR1 is getting a MAG def ...she has some good rust spots forming on a few leaves ....Today they got a LIL molasses all the way around and BR 3 needed LIme she was low ....5.8.....MY big girl is forming soild BR 1 is getting the Mag Def I have had her good on CAL and ph is perfect at 6.5 ...she ate a lil epsom salt as well ........this Big bitch can drink some nutes ........didnt have time for Pics today got up late and needed to fix them for 2 hours now ....ILL keep u posted on the rust spots and most likely post pics tomorrow if they get worse over the next few days !!!!!

 

[riko420]

i am having the same rust looking spot on two of my girls. we talked about me having an overall ph problem most likely. but waht should i do with those two. do i try and regulate ph and hope the nutrients are there just not available to them at the current acidity? or do i try and fix ph AND go buy some calmag and feed them?

 

[sativalover]

1. was too stoned earleir to put everything in and got some numbers put to gether for the coffee ....
   
   BR 1 5 gal bone dry root drench
   SOIL 6.0
   WATER: IN 6.5/ OUT 6.5
   
   BR 2 5 GAL BONE DRY ROOT DRENCH
   SOIL 5.8
   WATER IN 6.5/ OUT 6.0
   
   BR 3 BONE DRY ROOT DRENCH
   SOIL 6.2
   WATER IN 6.5/ OUT 6.0
   
   BR 4 DONE DRY ROOT DRENCH 5 GAL
   SOIL 6.5
   WATER IN 6.5/ OUT 7.5 ....
   
   COEE:
   SEABIRD GUANO 0-10-0 1 tbsp
   BAT GUANO 0-7-13- I THINK 1 tbsp
   buddha grow 10 ml
   trinity 5 ml
   blackstrap molasses 5 ml
   Seagrow 4-26-26- 1tbsp
   Humbolt HUmic 5 ml
   Stump tea 2 tbsp
   
   2 gal brewed 72 hours .......id woulda drank it smelled really lovely and didnt foam as bad as the first time basiclly all half doses and still have some great numbers
   Next feeding will be Rain water and maybe rain water with small carbs ....what yall think guys ......should have a new light but for sure next grow will be lumified !!!!!

2. -
   
   
   hey i see you got it only add carbs on watering after feeding
   if you add carbs w/ nutrients the herd will "eat" waht is easiest to eat first
   so don't offer it to them only when between feedings to ensure they have enough to thrive and multiply during times your not wanting them to exchange as hard
   people do what suites them best i run co2 keep temps higher and sup blue light w/ more nutrients ie. nitrogen especially but others as well like extra cal and mag
   if you add blue spectrum in veg and flower you will see the increase in nitrogen and other depleations compaired to straight hps (some have lower blue levels some have increased levels some have next to non depends on the buld used)due to the more effecient use of nitrogen sustained from the blue added spectrum
   
   but all this being said i only 10% runoff flush my containers three times during a cycle of growing
   
   first after infant stage and (around 3-4 nodes depending on the plant size) i intend on giving them their first high dose(i feed from seed) but not going to rec to anybody because i do it w/ a straw and only give tiny doses during small sizes will show pic comparison of non treated and treated throughout life the key isn't much at all or they will burn
   keep in mind when i say clean water this is the watering next after a feeding that i will also add sugars usually but also cal/mag if plants need on individual levels depending on mix
   second 10% runoff i do during clean water which i apply right at sex transition where i give about 1/2 1/2 veg and bloom
   
   third 10% runoff i do during clean water as verticle growth slows and 100% ratio full bloom is goin to be used for feeding
   
   this depends on the mix used as medium but i go on a three day cycle feed/reconstitute
   
   i know it is ready advise to always water to 10% runoff but really this isn't needed except if a high precipitation of minerals is present(salts) in the medium and in most mix that are organic this increase is no where as high compaired to chemical derived salts again depending on medium and the amount watered this will work
   see this is the problem w/ the 10% runoff theory all the time yes it is good to clense medium but once 10% is reached technically you overwatered if you test the soil
   
   yeah it is just alittle but unless you are having a specific difficulty your wasting nutrients starving microbes and roots because they shut down once too much water and not enough oxygen are present
   
   if you think our plant needs a liter for watering as example i would also break that ltr into a few waterings in the same day if time permits
   and stop watering once you se alittle run off
   
   see the funny thing about runoff is it will trick you
   i don't ever use it except for the three times i do the inbetween phases waterings and i give alittle more water then check the last little bit to come out to see if increased root dev has exhausted the added supply of lime in mix
   but concentrated runoff as soon as it leaves bucket will be higher than water caught at the end because the acid buildups from root exchange at bottom of bucket are more concentrated where root growth is more concentrated it will have the highest levels of salts
   but if you take the day of watering and start in the morning add 1/3 of what you intend wait a hour or two add the second 1/3 after sitting this gives the first amount of water time to actually permiate and unsolidify the dried out compounds then the second phase of water will actually dilute the previous feeding residues and then use them rather than just rinsing them out further w/ over saturation and runoff then the final watering of the day just give till a tiny bit runsoff
   once this is learned properly you can do this w/ no runoff
   
   the main thing here is also container size compaired to plant size
   as the plant increases of course this balance will change and if you are using rather small containers i would go ahead and rec a little more run-off
   
   ​
4. -
   
   i also add 15% ratio extra perlite to improve silicate availability cheap
   2 cups sterilized course playsand for increased silicate availability and better moisture distribution as well as evens water absorbtion by reducing "crusting" of slight nutrient resides
   i tbs extra epsom salts per cuft mixed in for an extra push
   and i add 20% shredded alfalfa to the mix
   (testing getting rid of peat all together but nutrient levels of alfalfa might be too high for young sprouts w/o composting it first
   still looking into it more
   it also has a slightly more neutral ph than peat so not as much lime is needed i have found
   great base nutrient though
   now from here depends on if i'm mixing for seedling or for mature plants talk more later about this for you​

 

[sativalover]

1. breaking this up for fear of connection issues​
2. -
   
   back to watering
   i sorta mentioned the three day cycle
   lets talk about this alittle to be short we will call 1-2-3
   this is what i do
   day 1.
   feed -if you feed to runoff the medium is too saturated and will take time to readjust to evenout for roots to proper exchange during this time of oversaturation and oxygen deprivation the roots start shutting down but evaporation is taking place till the balance is obtained
   during this evaporation is where you will start having precipitation of salts(salts forming )
   but during this time the nutrients aren't being exchanged as rapidly and this will increase the amount of salts present faster all the time robbing roots of what was available w/ proper balance(one of the reason cheleted materials are used not only are they more available through a wider ph they also precipitate slower leaving less residue buildup to need flushing out)(discussed this in other posts more thuroughly if interrested)
   but back to schedule
   day 2-ph'd r/o or rain water (clean day is what i call it)
   during this day i feed the herd as well w/ my "sugars" i mix corn syrup and cain sugar use what ever you wish alot use molasses for extra minerals(use unsulphered unless you don't epsom salts and for some reason extra sulphur is needed
   if i see a particular plant needing extra throughout this is when i tend to add extra epsom salts or cal/mag mix if things have shown it needed it more throughout
   i do this so the herd isn't feeding from "sugars"when i want them in full exchange and on this day i am giving them to feed propigate and rest for their cycle
   now doing this you also thin out dehydrated nutrient solution for aid in the exchange
   now of course i'm not sayin' the herd only does theese things at the time i tell them too
   but hope w/ alittle explanation you can see the point
   if you feed the herd "sugars" at the same time you feed nutrients heavy they will use more of the easier energy first not really doing the job you have them for
   of course you want them to be healthy and propigate but if you constantly just feed the herd what it needs it will be less effecient in providing the whole reason they are there aiding in the breaking down and exchange w/ the roots
   and will do the third day in a few​