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that's great
Blown didoes Marshydro 300w LED
- Thread starter Cat
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hi @MarshydroTina im looking for some help in aquiring replacement diodes for my mars hydro 300w. any help would be greatly appreciated thanks
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Hi. I've got your old 3 watt 144 reflector series I bought 5 years ago. If the answer was given already my apologies. I got a whole line of lights a from 1 end to the other blown and I wanna know if I can fix it. Been a great light and I don't have the funds to upgrade yet and got a battle coming up, which I can start under your 300. My profile pic is one from the reflector so I would like to get it fixed within a few weeks. Also I've had no problems with you're lights until now and 5 years is a good amount of time.
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Please send email to solutions@mars-hydro.com . our professional after sale service will help you
Regarding the blown blue leds, dunno what mars is on about saying they are sulphur affected, but the blue leds are higher energy than others and tend to blow first.
So Mars sulpheration claim sounds like cobblers to me.
To me they just look like blown blue leds - very common.
I replaced 4 blown blue leds on my old light with 3watt 'full par' spectrum leds as most of the older lights had far too much blue anyway and the blues are higher power so the full pars seem a good swap. Warm white is an alternative.
Replace your IR ones while you are at it. IR is heat - who needs more heat? Not me.
Simple solder replace, . See here
https://www.autoflower.org/threads/mars-led-self-diode-and-chip-replacement-how-to.53339/
Mine was 100 led 132 watt when new
- so its leds are either over-driven 1w, rare 2w, or 3w under driven. The drivers simply dont have the Volts or Amps for the leds to be 5w (which some sellers BS claim)
I replaced with 3w for safety, working fine.
Alternative solution:
Provided you dont take too many out, and depending on zener, you should be able to just remove burnt out led and replace with simple jumper wire to effectively make it a one less led unit - perhaps necessary as the power draw creeps up as the leds and unit gets older
Re The line of bulbs gone, its likely either
1. Like a number of older models it doesn't have zeners, so one out - all out from a particular driver
or
2. Too many leds have gone, probably without you noticing, raising the voltage through the line higher than can be coped with
or
3. The driver (power supply) has gone for that line. - Test via briefly plugging in driver lead from working row if they are the same spec.
There is a quick dirty way to check (1) but it involves working live, so not recommended unless you know what you are doing - jumper across each led in turn with well insulated U wire until they light up - thats the dud one. (or if you are a perfectionist - a MultiMeter on (high) current - as thats what you are doing - giving the current a path)
So Mars sulpheration claim sounds like cobblers to me.
To me they just look like blown blue leds - very common.
I replaced 4 blown blue leds on my old light with 3watt 'full par' spectrum leds as most of the older lights had far too much blue anyway and the blues are higher power so the full pars seem a good swap. Warm white is an alternative.
Replace your IR ones while you are at it. IR is heat - who needs more heat? Not me.
Simple solder replace, . See here
https://www.autoflower.org/threads/mars-led-self-diode-and-chip-replacement-how-to.53339/
Mine was 100 led 132 watt when new
- so its leds are either over-driven 1w, rare 2w, or 3w under driven. The drivers simply dont have the Volts or Amps for the leds to be 5w (which some sellers BS claim)
I replaced with 3w for safety, working fine.
Alternative solution:
Provided you dont take too many out, and depending on zener, you should be able to just remove burnt out led and replace with simple jumper wire to effectively make it a one less led unit - perhaps necessary as the power draw creeps up as the leds and unit gets older
Re The line of bulbs gone, its likely either
1. Like a number of older models it doesn't have zeners, so one out - all out from a particular driver
or
2. Too many leds have gone, probably without you noticing, raising the voltage through the line higher than can be coped with
or
3. The driver (power supply) has gone for that line. - Test via briefly plugging in driver lead from working row if they are the same spec.
There is a quick dirty way to check (1) but it involves working live, so not recommended unless you know what you are doing - jumper across each led in turn with well insulated U wire until they light up - thats the dud one. (or if you are a perfectionist - a MultiMeter on (high) current - as thats what you are doing - giving the current a path)
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I hope they last I recieved my first of two today and really happy with the output time will tell!Similar threads
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