Compost and Pumice 50/50 with bactifeed?

NebulaNuggets

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I have been looking around the local area for supplies, specifically pumice. I found a good supplier locally that sells pumice (3/16" to 1/4") at $42 for 1/2 cu yard. Not bad for 100 gal of pumice!

So I was gonna go check it out tomorrow, and they also have a 50/50 blend of compost and pumice. The compost has Bactifeed in it. Is this ok? or should I avoid it?

They also have really good prices on steer manure, topsoil, native plant compost, mulch etc. I am thinking for a $200 I could start a nice size compost pile in the back yard!

Anybody know if pecan shells are ok for aeration? And I was also thinking of adding some composted pinewood fines to the top layer for added moisture retention. Yay? Nay?

Gettin ready to play in some dirt :watering:
 
Looks like pecan shells may be a good additive for soil aeration or just as a cover mulch. Can get these things dirt cheap. $22 cu yard.

Now I just need a vita mix blender so I can pulverize these things.
 
pumic is killer deal,go for it if ya want. the Bactifeed is usually considered very harty stuff so I say go for it.,the steer manure is always good. wont need much of that though. a few gallons tops unless your doing field and stuff.pecan and the pinewood bark? the shells nope.I would not personally use them because of the thickness of them and the woody type of material they are. uncertain of the degradation rates but they'll hold SOME(prolly not a lot but maybe enough to matter?) Nitrogen and being porous they also hold some life well too. but yes they can be used very successfully too. pince wood fines are ok too,but can also lead to issue. they be better it its shaved woods they degrade faster.

Most organic gardeners find that following nature’s patterns serves them well. When it comes to building richer soil, nature’s plan relies heavily on trees — fallen limbs, leaves, cones, seeds and, eventually, the massive trunks. Adapting this plan for building garden soil by using a wood mulch — such as wood chips, sawdust or other woody residues — is a strategy that promises huge, long-term returns.

Field studies dating back to the 1950s — and as recent as this year — suggest that a high-fiber diet of woody materials is exactly what many soils need. Rotted bits of wood persist as organic matter for a long time, enhancing the soil’s ability to retain nutrients and moisture, which results in bigger, better crops.

But wait: Woody materials are high in carbon and cellulose, so they need nitrogen and time in order to decompose. If you ignore these facts by mixing fresh sawdust or wood chips directly into your soil, the materials will bind up much of the soil’s nitrogen and render the spot useless for gardening for a season or two.


Nut Shells: Pecan shells, peanut husks, cocoanut fiber and other nut wastes make excellent compost. One precaution: avoid shells of walnuts. They contain a chemical that inhibits plant growth and works like an antiseptic to kill off bacteria.
 
pumic is killer deal,go for it if ya want. the Bactifeed is usually considered very harty stuff so I say go for it.,the steer manure is always good. wont need much of that though. a few gallons tops unless your doing field and stuff.pecan and the pinewood bark? the shells nope.I would not personally use them because of the thickness of them and the woody type of material they are. uncertain of the degradation rates but they'll hold SOME(prolly not a lot but maybe enough to matter?) Nitrogen and being porous they also hold some life well too. but yes they can be used very successfully too. pince wood fines are ok too,but can also lead to issue. they be better it its shaved woods they degrade faster.

Most organic gardeners find that following nature’s patterns serves them well. When it comes to building richer soil, nature’s plan relies heavily on trees — fallen limbs, leaves, cones, seeds and, eventually, the massive trunks. Adapting this plan for building garden soil by using a wood mulch — such as wood chips, sawdust or other woody residues — is a strategy that promises huge, long-term returns.

Field studies dating back to the 1950s — and as recent as this year — suggest that a high-fiber diet of woody materials is exactly what many soils need. Rotted bits of wood persist as organic matter for a long time, enhancing the soil’s ability to retain nutrients and moisture, which results in bigger, better crops.

But wait: Woody materials are high in carbon and cellulose, so they need nitrogen and time in order to decompose. If you ignore these facts by mixing fresh sawdust or wood chips directly into your soil, the materials will bind up much of the soil’s nitrogen and render the spot useless for gardening for a season or two.


Nut Shells: Pecan shells, peanut husks, cocoanut fiber and other nut wastes make excellent compost. One precaution: avoid shells of walnuts. They contain a chemical that inhibits plant growth and works like an antiseptic to kill off bacteria.

Thanks EoF appreciate the knowledge as usual! :jointman:

I think you are spot on with the bit about high fiber woody materials. I have been bouncing ideas around in my head and kept coming back to materials that are decomposed like wood.

For 30 bucks I can get a cu yard of 75%compost 25% clean topsoil. Throw a little cow manure in there and some pecan shells, some leaves and good composted mulch. that should give me a good start! Why buy bagged hydro store soil when you can make your own (better) soil for a fraction of the cost!

Oh yeah, and bio char. Up in the mountains here in AZ there are forest fires every year, tons of biochar up there. Is any old bio char good or should it be of a certain age and type of wood? I mean there's acres of the stuff up there!
 
eh overall you can use most ANY wood as long as its been mostly burned and charred through. typically hardwoods are best I believe for bio char. living hardwoods as from the range fires would be pretty good indeed I would think. Id sure use them. maybe use a Char burner and stick in on a fire pit for a cpl hours if its not fully done but it'll be fine.
 
eh overall you can use most ANY wood as long as its been mostly burned and charred through. typically hardwoods are best I believe for bio char. living hardwoods as from the range fires would be pretty good indeed I would think. Id sure use them. maybe use a Char burner and stick in on a fire pit for a cpl hours if its not fully done but it'll be fine.
I always spread the ashes from my fire pit in my compost pile

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