Took a while to start cooking but eventually got going..will be another month before use so should be good to go. Look forward to the results...:Sharing One:
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Duggys soil mix
- Thread starter Duggy
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Cheers bro...will do...:Sharing One:
Found some nice compost locally. Hot composted for 100 days @ 70C with plenty of fish/green waste etc..
Will add about 20% to my mix which should give a good boost...has received great reports from local organic farmers...:Sharing One:
Will add about 20% to my mix which should give a good boost...has received great reports from local organic farmers...:Sharing One:
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Man those materials in yer area sound nice man..id love to try something similar one day..I too am mixing yet another smaller batch for myself tonight...but gotta do that in stages man,lottsa work man..lol. Im really excited to see you get to work with that soil too..man!!
:gthumb:
:gthumb:
Other than more lime and I'm not sure 6...
Havent tested pH of mine yet but will do once I mix with the new compost...:Sharing One:
Havent tested pH of mine yet but will do once I mix with the new compost...:Sharing One:
A4
11th Year Anniversary
GA6, I hope this helps with your question brother. I use a three part mixture of pulverized lime, gypsum and oyster shell. 1 1/2 cup lime, 1 1/2 cup gypsum and 3 cups oyster shell, mix real well and add 1 1/2 cups of that to 30 gallons of my TLO soil. My pH normally comes in around 6.8 but it is going to depend on how much amendments you have as well. The hotter the soil, the more buffer you are going to need. I use a lot of organic compost as well which also helps.
Adding organic matter is an indirect method of soil pH adjustment. Organic matter “buffers” soil, especially sandy soil.The higher the organic matter content of a soil, the more lime it takes to raise the soil pH 1 point, and the more sulfur it takes to lower the soil pH 1 point. Plants grown in soil with a lot of organic matter have healthier roots. They’re able to extract enough nutrients from the soil even when the pH isn’t optimal. In a healthy soil with adequate organic matter, changing soil pH may not be necessary, because plants continue to grow at pH levels that would stunt growth in leaner soils. When you increase soil organic matter, you’re not really changing soil pH, you’re increasing your plants’ tolerance for acidic or alkaline conditions.
To make soils less acidic, the common practice is to apply a material that contains some form of lime. Ground agricultural limestone is most frequently used. The finer the limestone particles, the more rapidly it becomes effective. Different soils will require a different amount of lime to adjust the soil pH value. The texture of the soil, organic matter content and the plants to be grown are all factors to consider in adjusting the pH value. For example, soils low in clay require less lime than soils high in clay to make the same pH change. There are four types of ground limestone products: pulverized, granular, pelletized and hydrated. Pulverized lime is finely ground. The finer the grind of the limestone the faster it will change the soil pH value. Hydrated lime should be used with caution since it has a greater ability to neutralize soil acidity than regular limestone.
The most important factor determining the effectiveness of lime is placement. Maximum contact of lime with the soil is essential. Most liming materials are only slightly soluble in water, so incorporation in the soil is a must for lime reaction. Even when properly mixed with the soil, lime will have little effect on pH if the soil is dry. Moisture is essential for the lime-soil reaction to occur.
Wood ashes can be used to raise the soil pH. They contain small amounts of potassium, phosphate, boron and other elements. They are not as effective as limestone but with repeated use, they can drastically raise the pH value of a soil, especially if the soil is sandy in texture. Ashes should not come in contact with germinating seedlings or plant roots as they may cause damage. Spread a thin layer during the winter and incorporate into the soil in the spring. Check the soil pH annually especially if you use wood ashes. Avoid using large amounts of wood ashes because excessively high pH values and subsequent nutrient deficiencies may result. Coal ashes do not have any lime value and may actually be acidic dependent on the source.
Adding organic matter is an indirect method of soil pH adjustment. Organic matter “buffers” soil, especially sandy soil.The higher the organic matter content of a soil, the more lime it takes to raise the soil pH 1 point, and the more sulfur it takes to lower the soil pH 1 point. Plants grown in soil with a lot of organic matter have healthier roots. They’re able to extract enough nutrients from the soil even when the pH isn’t optimal. In a healthy soil with adequate organic matter, changing soil pH may not be necessary, because plants continue to grow at pH levels that would stunt growth in leaner soils. When you increase soil organic matter, you’re not really changing soil pH, you’re increasing your plants’ tolerance for acidic or alkaline conditions.
To make soils less acidic, the common practice is to apply a material that contains some form of lime. Ground agricultural limestone is most frequently used. The finer the limestone particles, the more rapidly it becomes effective. Different soils will require a different amount of lime to adjust the soil pH value. The texture of the soil, organic matter content and the plants to be grown are all factors to consider in adjusting the pH value. For example, soils low in clay require less lime than soils high in clay to make the same pH change. There are four types of ground limestone products: pulverized, granular, pelletized and hydrated. Pulverized lime is finely ground. The finer the grind of the limestone the faster it will change the soil pH value. Hydrated lime should be used with caution since it has a greater ability to neutralize soil acidity than regular limestone.
The most important factor determining the effectiveness of lime is placement. Maximum contact of lime with the soil is essential. Most liming materials are only slightly soluble in water, so incorporation in the soil is a must for lime reaction. Even when properly mixed with the soil, lime will have little effect on pH if the soil is dry. Moisture is essential for the lime-soil reaction to occur.
Wood ashes can be used to raise the soil pH. They contain small amounts of potassium, phosphate, boron and other elements. They are not as effective as limestone but with repeated use, they can drastically raise the pH value of a soil, especially if the soil is sandy in texture. Ashes should not come in contact with germinating seedlings or plant roots as they may cause damage. Spread a thin layer during the winter and incorporate into the soil in the spring. Check the soil pH annually especially if you use wood ashes. Avoid using large amounts of wood ashes because excessively high pH values and subsequent nutrient deficiencies may result. Coal ashes do not have any lime value and may actually be acidic dependent on the source.
Just got the new compost...rich, dark with lovely consistency and texture...even smells good..
Will mix up the batch I need and let it sit until needed.
Hopeful that this will add a broad range of nutritious elements to the final mix..."AFN smoke out"
Its supposed to be suitable for seedlings so I will test that out too..
Will mix up the batch I need and let it sit until needed.
Hopeful that this will add a broad range of nutritious elements to the final mix..."AFN smoke out"
Its supposed to be suitable for seedlings so I will test that out too..
Have been gathering ingredients to make some..Fermented Plant Juice...bloom feed..
Will detail the prep here shortly...
Will detail the prep here shortly...
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