DWC Deficiency

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I mis-spoke earlier about Terpinator being a bloom booster, it's a potassium supplement and more other magic ingredients whose intention is to improve aroma and flavor of the plant. Nutrient value is rated at 0-0-4 so it's relatively mild, but I shouldn't comment much further as I haven't used the product.

And I'm not a CannaZym user so your reference to the PK13/14, is that your bloom base nute?
So you're at 950 + 250 water = 1200ppm / 2.4ec after adding the PK13/14, but before the Terpinator & Atami?

Your ec is going to continue going up as supplements are added, so you may need to re-calculate your nutrient strength. The best way I've found to do that is to study the N-P-K & micronutrient dosages of your base nutes and supplements, and their recommended full strength dosages. Add those amounts to a gallon of water and adjust your pH to around 5.9. Measure your ec, then calculate a dilution that will bring your ec into a range you're comfortable with. For example, let's say a 100% strength nute mix with all additives and pH balances comes in at 1450ppm, water value included. If you add 1 gallon of 250ppm water to this, your new ppm value should be (1450+ 250) /2) or 850ppm. Practically, that's too low. But if you mix two gallons full strength, then add one gallon water:​
1450 + 1450 + 250 = 3150; / 3 gallons = 1050. You get the picture. The important thing with base nutes and supplements is to maintain the proper ratios, and to adjust strength by simple water dilution. Some plants can stay healthy with a 25% strength solution; some will be healthy & happy at 100%. So decide where you feel safe starting, monitor ppm's, and if they go up as the plant drinks, dilute even further. If ppm's go down, she's hungry and can stand a stronger solution.
Hey Olde School, Thanks for your replies it is very much appreciated as this is just my 2nd grow so still a rookie trying to absorb as much information as possible!
So here is my lineup of nutes and what they are for:
Canna Aqua Vega A&B - Veg base nutes (I have used from weeks 1-7)
Canna Aqua Flores A&B - Bloom base nutes (will use this now until flush)
Rhizotonic - Root stimulator (to be used throughout grow until flush but I am now down to 0.5ml/l)
Cannazym - Beneficial bacteria fighting against the dreaded root rot (To be used until flush)
Canna Boost - Boost in late Veg and Flower
Calmag
PK 13/14 - Bloom booster only to be used for one week to spike the P & K during bud formation
Atami B'cuzz Blossom Builder - To be used in final 4 weeks to dense up buds
Terpinator - To increase Aroma and terpinoids (have just been using this sporadically as when I added 3ml/l to my solution it raised EC by 0.3)

So basically I will need to drop my base nutes to be able to add in my boosters to keep my EC down or do my ratios, test EC and then if to high dilute it down with water to get to the sweet spot?
Also seems like she is loving the PK as EC has dropped by 0.2 since I did the new res so she is eating nicely now!
 
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This is what I base my feeding on and then adjust as needed, this is for a photoperiod but I set it to light feeding and bring it down if needed

Capture.PNG
 
.... So basically I will need to drop my base nutes to be able to add in my boosters to keep my EC down or do my ratios, test EC and then if to high dilute it down with water to get to the sweet spot?
Also seems like she is loving the PK as EC has dropped by 0.2 since I did the new res so she is eating nicely now!

Regardless of what nutrient vendor you choose, I'm of the belief that using supplements from the same vendor is the most effective and easily managed, unless you are highly experienced & well educated in plant biology. You made a wise choice by picking products from one vendor.
That chart you posted was extremely helpful since I'm not a Canna user. It provides the proper ratios for Canna products & factors in which additives have how much N-P-K etc. In short, Canna has done the hard work for you. And the option to establish a "light" feeding regimen is a plus as well.
So DO mix them per the ratios on your chart and DO dilute them to your sweet spot.
Do NOT drop your base nutes to "make room" for the additives.
More thoughts toward the future of your plant - a "light" feed regimen will not always provide the most robust results, so you need to monitor your system closely. And that should not be as hard as some would believe if you keep two things in mind:
[HASHTAG]#1[/HASHTAG] - pH is EVERYTHING in hydro and you DO want it to fluctuate. You'll hear large ranges - for example Canna says between 5.2 and 6.2. I think that might be OK for turnips and rutabagas but for weed I want to see my ranges controlled within the 5.7 / 5.8 to 6.1 / 6.2 range. Maybe I'm being anal but that's what I've always done, and that has always prevented any problems for me.
Something as simple as aerating your water before adding nutes will help stabilize pH by eliminating carbon dioxide from the water. Bad bacteria will cause a rapid drop & this can be a clue that a problem is starting.
Practically every nutrient and additive has the ability to affect pH.
Even nutrient strength will affect pH, so on to :

[HASHTAG]#2[/HASHTAG] - Monitor your ec/ppm as religiously as you do pH.
The golden strength rule is, if you see ppm's go up as the plant consumes nutes, that is saying the plant consumed more water than nutes & the mix is too strong. If ppm's head downward, the mix is too weak. Either way the plant is creating an imbalance.

And plants uptake water and nutrients at different rates. Growing? Heavy N uptake. Blooming? Heavy P-K uptake. In between and at the end? Nobody knows. Over time
this can create an imbalance which may present as changes in pH (the first sign something is going wrong).

There is no practical way to measure nutrient imbalance, it won't show up as a change in ec/ppm. So anytime a large pH shift occurs, consider that it may be coming from an imbalance. It's best to dump and start fresh.
Well researched feed charts like the one you have go a long way toward preventing problems caused by nutrient strength or imbalance between elements. And

Canna provides some very good advice for nute strength:

"It is advisable to start with an EC that is between 0.8 and 1.0 higher than the EC (ppm values) from the water supply and to gradually raise this as necessary to a maximum of 1.3-1.7 above the water supply’s EC (ppm values). Keeping a regular check on the nutrient solution’s pH, EC and ppm levels and observing the plants is necessary to be able to take the correct action at the correct time. "

So with 0.5 water you would start around ec1.3 to 1.5 veg, and move up to 2.2 bloom.

Canna's chart amounts are reasonable & coincidentally stop at ec2.2 I would not be afraid to go higher - just listen to the plant and don't prescribe to any preconceived notions. She will tell you what she wants if you follow these rules. J

ust maintain the proper ratios by increasing or decreasing the water - to - nute mix.
 
Regardless of what nutrient vendor you choose, I'm of the belief that using supplements from the same vendor is the most effective and easily managed, unless you are highly experienced & well educated in plant biology. You made a wise choice by picking products from one vendor.
That chart you posted was extremely helpful since I'm not a Canna user. It provides the proper ratios for Canna products & factors in which additives have how much N-P-K etc. In short, Canna has done the hard work for you. And the option to establish a "light" feeding regimen is a plus as well.
So DO mix them per the ratios on your chart and DO dilute them to your sweet spot.
Do NOT drop your base nutes to "make room" for the additives.
More thoughts toward the future of your plant - a "light" feed regimen will not always provide the most robust results, so you need to monitor your system closely. And that should not be as hard as some would believe if you keep two things in mind:
[HASHTAG]#1[/HASHTAG] - pH is EVERYTHING in hydro and you DO want it to fluctuate. You'll hear large ranges - for example Canna says between 5.2 and 6.2. I think that might be OK for turnips and rutabagas but for weed I want to see my ranges controlled within the 5.7 / 5.8 to 6.1 / 6.2 range. Maybe I'm being anal but that's what I've always done, and that has always prevented any problems for me.
Something as simple as aerating your water before adding nutes will help stabilize pH by eliminating carbon dioxide from the water. Bad bacteria will cause a rapid drop & this can be a clue that a problem is starting.
Practically every nutrient and additive has the ability to affect pH.
Even nutrient strength will affect pH, so on to :

[HASHTAG]#2[/HASHTAG] - Monitor your ec/ppm as religiously as you do pH.
The golden strength rule is, if you see ppm's go up as the plant consumes nutes, that is saying the plant consumed more water than nutes & the mix is too strong. If ppm's head downward, the mix is too weak. Either way the plant is creating an imbalance.

And plants uptake water and nutrients at different rates. Growing? Heavy N uptake. Blooming? Heavy P-K uptake. In between and at the end? Nobody knows. Over time
this can create an imbalance which may present as changes in pH (the first sign something is going wrong).

There is no practical way to measure nutrient imbalance, it won't show up as a change in ec/ppm. So anytime a large pH shift occurs, consider that it may be coming from an imbalance. It's best to dump and start fresh.
Well researched feed charts like the one you have go a long way toward preventing problems caused by nutrient strength or imbalance between elements. And
Canna provides some very good advice for nute strength:
"It is advisable to start with an EC that is between 0.8 and 1.0 higher than the EC (ppm values) from the water supply and to gradually raise this as necessary to a maximum of 1.3-1.7 above the water supply’s EC (ppm values). Keeping a regular check on the nutrient solution’s pH, EC and ppm levels and observing the plants is necessary to be able to take the correct action at the correct time. "

So with 0.5 water you would start around ec1.3 to 1.5 veg, and move up to 2.2 bloom.
Canna's chart amounts are reasonable & coincidentally stop at ec2.2 I would not be afraid to go higher - just listen to the plant and don't prescribe to any preconceived notions. She will tell you what she wants if you follow these rules. J

ust maintain the proper ratios by increasing or decreasing the water - to - nute mix.
Thank alot Bro! You have put my mind at rest as I am doing the above and always check my PH/EC twice a day, before work and after! Don't be surprised if I hit you up for some more tricks in the future lol :thanks::bighug:
 
Twice a day is making you happier than the plant but that's OK, better to "kill it" than neglect it!!!
We'll be around if needed, just be sure to tag me with @myscreenname so I get an alert.
 
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