Emergency, advice needed

:smoking: :toke: ...I'm with HM, pH check is needed,... and are you feeding every time you water? In coco, this is recommended, but the amount used must be smaller, and proportioned to the size of the plant, and therefore uptake,... coco is not like a soil, and has peculiar CEC characteristics,.. high Ca demand and if it's not well processed, a lot of native K,... symptoms are similar for both defc. and toxicity with K in coco, but nute burn may manifest like this too,.. only thing having me think twice about that is the tips of many leaves seem okay, no yellow/burn,..I think? we need more pics, side shots of plant, close up of some affected leaves please,... coco pH is best around 5.8-6.2,.. that in-pot pH is critical mate, do you have a pH meter for testing liquids?

You gave me some good points man. So do I feed everyday cause it is said you cannot overwater in Coco.
And I dont have CaLMAg, I live in India, cant find no where and it costs a bomb to import from the USA. A quart of Botanicare CalMAg is like 120$.
So I have ordered dolomite lime. Hopefully that should work. Also, am using tap water so maybe get some CalMag from there. Btw the tap water PPM is 17.

I keep watering with 5.5 ph average but the cocos PH never changes. Its really annoying.

BTW the plant is PHOTOPERIOD !!!! (Heavily Medicated: forgot to mention it above )

I ll post more pics tomorrow.

Thanks for your time.
 
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Take today. I have removed all the affected leaves. Looks like it's recovering. I have just left it outside in my balcony. This one doesn't get lights.

Let's see how it ll do.
 
.....being in india dont you get lots of sun? Why arnt you outdoors ?
 
:biggrin: Oooo, pass the Vindaloo! :hothot: ... can you get molasses? That has Ca, Mg, some K and a little Fe in it,.. sugars are great for the soil microbes too! -- try 2x/week, using 1 fat tsp/L
... ah! No wonder mate, with water that soft(low ppm), it has hardly any CaCO3 in it which buffers the water pH, and therefore helps with acidic soil//
...dolomite is too slow acting to be of help now, it's best used tilled into the soil weeks beforehand.. this form of lime is the slowest acting due to slightly different chemistry compared to limestone type,... Also, there's no practical way to get it into the root zone now, surface dressing won't cut it!
 
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