New Grower Hey Guys....im guessing i have a big problem

Baking soda to raise your PH
A little bit raises the pH a lot... so, if you try this, bear that in mind and proceed with caution. :peace:
 
how much does one often use per gallon of water bro?Ive heard alittle goes a loooong way.I forgot to mention this.:wiz:
 
how much does one often use per gallon of water bro
In my experience, it takes such a minute amount, I couldn't give you a measurement... I have used it when I used bottled ferts, and I had to add a small "pinch" at a time, give it a few hours, test, and re-buffer... a very little at a time to avoid overshooting... it has a serious impact on water pH which is why I advise caution. :peace:
 
WOW that low,cool.Thanks man!!I knew it was sensitive but daaang didnt know it was that little bit goes a long way.sweet.Thanks!in case I run into an issue with the one plant Im using bottled ferts on.:dance:
 
Hydrated lime can be used but care must be taken with it. It is very caustic and too much can damage the roots. If used I wouldn't recommend any more than 1 tablespoon per gallon of feed and use it 1 time only. It will raise the pH faster than dolomite.

Another issue with the MG soils I haven't seen mentioned here are the slow release nutrients they contain. They are not the right type for growing weed and can often contribute to problems. If Pro Mix or Sunshine isn't available in your area, you can make a good mix yourself with other products that are available at Lowes or Home Depot. Sphagnum peat moss, perlite, composted manure and dolomite lime. Buy some myco off the web and add it and you're got a good basic mix that will outperform MG without the issues.

I tried using pulverized Dolomite lime last year in a pinch and it worked but I didnt let it disolve and it left a nasty ole silt all over the top LMAO!Not sure if there is a major difference if its hydrated lime? I couldnt find it anywhere when I needed it the most.LOL.
 
WOW THANKS everyone for all the advice...the baking soda remedy sounds really good because it seems like the one i'd be least likely to f up....just barely a pinch in a gal water jug....also how do i "like" posts because i would like to add to all youse guy rep for the help....it seems auto flower are prone to getting calcium def.? lol or maybe its because of MG, and to think i was about to buy the organic MG but i was like man...i've been doing this for a few years but i have NO clue about growing anything 100% organic, also has any of you ran "Think Differnt" or "Sour 60" because i think that is what i want to do next
 
NVM stoner moment....i see the "like" button in the corner
 
Great find WG!!!

Do not use baking soda to raise soil pH or any vinegars to lower soil pH. It's a waste of time and money. These products are not strong enough to do any permanent soil acidifying or alkalining of soil. Plus too much sodium from baking soda is deadly to beneficial soil organisms!

Baking soda is mainly used in sustainable farming in tea forms as a plant foliage fungicide.

Vinegars are used mainly straight as a strong natural herbicide. Diluted and used sparingly (few tblsp per gallon of water or compost tea recipes), apple cider vinegar is great as a foliar acidic fertilizer, or as an ingredient for acidity in various compost tea recipes, for better phosphorus availability on flowering/fruiting plant foliages. Plus diluted vinegar in teas has some fungicidal powers too. Natural fruit vinegars can contain up to 30 nutrients in them.

For soil pH, nothing lasts longer or better, to chemically react with your native soil minerals, metals, organic matter, and soil microbes, than liming materials (high calcium carbonate materials) or powdered sulfur products.

Liming agents like lime or dolomitic limestone can raise pH up to 8.3, while wood ashes can raise soil pH up to 9.0!

Sulfur products can lower soil pH down to or below 5.0.

Of course the best soil pH range for all rich organic soils is between 6.0 to 7.0, for all the plant types or varieties that you can grow.

The beneficial microbes from rich compost and some good aerobic compost teas will buffer and balance the available nutrients and perfect local root soil pH to best suit your plant's needs later, after your native soil pH is within this balanced 6-7 range.
 
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