MC 2.0 doses?

[Steviestash]

Can the chunks be crushed up

 

[Mushinronsha]

Following... there are a lot of good questions being asked in this thread. If anyone find s the answers in another thread please post them her as well. Good day!

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

I think it was me that suggested using the old in veg and the new in flower and that is what I will do this run. I have a two year supply between the two bags 9900g MC1 and 750g MC2.

I will continue to add BE, SC, Kelp Extract and MagPro but I will reduce the amount to half of what I used before. I run a drip to waste so I am running at 80% of chart and It performed very well in the last grow but I think I could have pumped up the colas a bit by reducing the N just a bit. The plants stayed green all the way into harvest. No leaves were drained for their nutes at the end. so that is why I think I need a little less N.

As to the white bits. We mix such small amounts that an out of balance condition could happen but it will only be for that mixing. The next mix may be a little over and the plants will get what they need over time. This is indeed the reason I will continue with the additives that are weighed out separately. There is little risk of the nutrients to be so far off that you would get a lock out situation as long as PH is in range.

I cannot believe there is a stoner in here growing weed that does not own a gram scale . I measure out in grams.

I have a unique situation with my water that requires checking the PH every-time. I am on municipal water and the city has both wells and surface water sources. I live right in the middle of the two supplies so some days I am getting well water and other days surface water. The PH and PPMs is different between the two of them. I have a 35 gallon top-off tank that I fill and aerate over night then test to see what I have in the tank. I PH it to 6.1. From there It goes into the 10 gallon reservoir to be mixed with nutes and given a final PH.

I do not know If you have seen the numbers but I did a complete 6 plant grow with GreenLeaf Nutrients for $15.30. The yield was 30 ounces cured. The same size 6 plant grow with House & Garden was over $200.00 yield was about the same except I had a bad plant (genetic problem). Now that is real value and the other Nutrient Companies should be shaking in their boots.

Thank You @Greenleaf Nutrients

 

[Mushinronsha]

I think it was me that suggested using the old in veg and the new in flower and that is what I will do this run. I have a two year supply between the two bags 9900g MC1 and 750g MC2.

I will continue to add BE, SC, Kelp Extract and MagPro but I will reduce the amount to half of what I used before. I run a drip to waste so I am running at 80% of chart and It performed very well in the last grow but I think I could have pumped up the colas a bit by reducing the N just a bit. The plants stayed green all the way into harvest. No leaves were drained for their nutes at the end. so that is why I think I need a little less N.

As to the white bits. We mix such small amounts that an out of balance condition could happen but it will only be for that mixing. The next mix may be a little over and the plants will get what they need over time. This is indeed the reason I will continue with the additives that are weighed out separately. There is little risk of the nutrients to be so far off that you would get a lock out situation as long as PH is in range.

I cannot believe there is a stoner in here growing weed that does not own a gram scale . I measure out in grams.

I have a unique situation with my water that requires checking the PH every-time. I am on municipal water and the city has both wells and surface water sources. I live right in the middle of the two supplies so some days I am getting well water and other days surface water. The PH and PPMs is different between the two of them. I have a 35 gallon top-off tank that I fill and aerate over night then test to see what I have in the tank. I PH it to 6.1. From there It goes into the 10 gallon reservoir to be mixed with nutes and given a final PH.

I do not know If you have seen the numbers but I did a complete 6 plant grow with GreenLeaf Nutrients for $15.30. The yield was 30 ounces cured. The same size 6 plant grow with House & Garden was over $200.00 yield was about the same except I had a bad plant (genetic problem). Now that is real value and the other Nutrient Companies should be shaking in their boots.

Thank You @Greenleaf Nutrients

My thoughts on it were to use it at 20%-30% and just increase by 10% weekly. This is on an ebb and flow setup. So using just Mega Crop I was thinking:


6grams / gal
20 Gal tank

20% 24g Week 1
30% 36g Week 2 etc.....
40% 48g
50% 60g
60% 72g
70% 84g
80% 96g
90% 108g
100% 120g

For those of you that have used this product or not. Does this seem like its solid and will result in the least amount of risk/success?

 

[Hoverjet]

This is from Greenleaf rep on another forum, similar name as here and they were doing the promo. I figure it’s the same.

“About the people mentioning that the mix will be uneven with fine powders and "balls," its really not an issue as people seem to be making it. Its only an issue of getting an uneven mix if you are mixing very small batches at a time (like less than 1-2 gallons). In that case, you can mix up stock solution like 10-20x concentration which will ensure an even mix even for the smallest gardens!

.”

When asked about the balls:
“Yes, they are Calcium Nitrate. Its all water soluble so just wait a few minutes for it to dissolve in”

This was from November i think

I can post the link, don’t know if it’s allowed.

I’ve been using MG 2.0 on one plant mixing only a gallon at a time. So far the plant has loved it.

 

[slowandeasy]

So what EC would you shooting in veg? or flower? I remember @pops22 was at something like ~500ppm , and I assume that was late veg or flower.

I run Coco and I measure EC, which is Universal. PPM is not. I honestly only feed lower than full strength during the first few days I feed them. After that it is Full Strength. I use a lot of Cal-mag 2.0g per gal and some Sweet Candy at 1g per gal. I use about 4.5g per gal of MC. This total mix comes to 1.1-1.2 EC. So he is probably right with about 500ppm of just MC if you were to measure it.

I heard back from the Customer service. They said mix 50g per 1 liter will make a concentrate that would be the equivalent to 5g per gal. This would equal 20ml per gal in liquid form per gal. He is the one who suggested it. I never even mentioned making a concentrate to him, only on here. So I will be making 100g in a 2 liters of water. I will let you guys know how it works out. I wish I could make it stronger. Like 10ml per gal would be better ratiorfor people. I use 4.5g per gal. That would translate to about 16-18ml per gal. It would be nice to make it 8-9 ml instead.

The 2.0 is stronger, so it might only take 4g instead of 4.5 anyways. So that would make 14-16ml per gal or 7-8 if I can make it mix well at a lower volume of water.

 

[slowandeasy]

Honestly, I would feel more comfortable making a liquid Concentrate and it makes it less labor in the long run. The calcium balls are all different sizes. Once a concentrate is made, making a 3g jug of water would just be 2 full Syringes of liquid MC. Instead of breathing poweder eat time roo

 

[Moabfighter]

I like that 100g per 2liter bottle. How many teaspoons would that be per gallon to equal approximately 1g?

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

My thoughts on it were to use it at 20%-30% and just increase by 10% weekly. This is on an ebb and flow setup. So using just Mega Crop I was thinking:


6grams / gal
20 Gal tank

20% 24g Week 1
30% 36g Week 2 etc.....
40% 48g
50% 60g
60% 72g
70% 84g
80% 96g
90% 108g
100% 120g

For those of you that have used this product or not. Does this seem like its solid and will result in the least amount of risk/success?

I think your starting point is too low and end too high for an ebb and flow. I would start 40% and end 80%. Unless your table floods over the top of your rock wool you are going to have a salt build-up problem just above the water line. To combat this top water every couple of weeks.

 

[BII]

........Btw, I am thinking about making a concentrated liquid out of the whole sample bag.

Unless Greenleaf assures us from results of actual product life-time testing done with diluted MC, I doubt a product formulated to be stable as a dry powder will have long-term stability (weeks, months, longer?) as a concentrated solution. Chelation and sensitive nutes will presumably decay faster in water, particularly when the product lacks additives or otherwise is not stabilized for long-term dilution.