i've only ever played with photos in bubbleponics, this is my first auto and from what i've read pro mix is essential. my local shop had a 60 pounder of pro mix bx. from my reading it seems the pro mix bx should have some additional perlite added. my local guy failed to mention and i only saw that after i purchased. he's closed through the new year and at this time of year it seems that there's not even one bag of perlite in my local area, at least not available to me, right now. being a bubble guy though, i do have a fresh bag of hydroton. say i clean the hydroton real nice and put it about three layers deep in the bottom of my 5 gal pots and then add the bx on top, would that be cool? or could i even go a step further and add in some hydroton to the pro mix bx as well? or is there some unknown reason (to me) why adding hydroton to pro mix bx would be a huge mistake (as it pertains to autos)? i want to start and finish in the same pot, since everything seems to stress these auto strains. i'll be using G13 labs nyc diesel auto. would love to start today, but if ya'll tell me no hydroton, put you NEED perlite then i'll wait. thanks in advance, and have a great day, all!
New Grower pro mix bx & hydroton question for 1st time auto
- Thread starter newShine
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Epic Genetics
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bottom of the pot would be fine , adding it througout causes inconsistancy in your medium/rootball
peace
bottom of the pot would be fine , adding it througout causes inconsistancy in your medium/rootball
peace
thank you, sir! i've seen some posts where people mentioned adding perlite, and some stated to never add it. since mine is bx it probably would help, but i'm gonna go straight, with the clay balls on the bottom. i'm not afraid to underwater a bit. water is the one deficiency i know i can cure in a heart beat!
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Pro Mix is fine as is, no additional perlite is needed. You could add some hydroton to the bottom of the pots for drainage but not really necessary. They will do great in the straight Pro Mix. What kind of lights are you using? BX holds a bit more moisture than HP and is best for use under HPS lighting. HP is better for CFLs, LEDs, etc.
i'm starting with a 65 watt 5000k cfl's 3600 lumen, i figure one over every 5 gallon pot (4 pots). by about week 5 or 6 i plan to move to 400w hps (hortilux enhanced spectrum). i'm working in 2'x2'.5" gorilla tent, so i plan to start the hps real high and easy it down, monitoring closely. will be extracting heat with a 4" inline (165 cfm) on top of tent, keeping back door open during lights on and have a couple 6" clip mounts for movement inside.
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You should be fine. The BX won't dry out quite as fast once you switch over to the HPS, although a 400 watter in that size tent might be a bit hard to keep the temps at a reasonable level.
ya know, i was wondering about the heat. i've only ever done bubbleponics with cfl's 5000k veg and 2700k flower. i read that the sun does about 10,000 lumen a sq ft (so to speak) and i figure i'm five square feet so 50,000 would give me nature. if i have to keep the tent open, i can (gorillas can give 360 degree access, so i could literally eliminate the walls during lights on). i figure first time auto and first time hps wasn't the best combo, but it's the only seed i have and i'm tired of the cfls hanging into my swaying kolas cause they need to be so damn close.
decided to run the tent for a day w/o any guests. with three sides open i'm at 83 degrees. only have an 8" desktop oscillating fan going (although it's pretty beefy for a small unit), which still leaves the 4" inline for extraction, just in case. so, even worst case scenarios, i should be ok. thanks for the help! this is an awesome resource! happy new year to all! :head:
the temps can change my friend one day it can be low temps other day high temps a lot to do with the weather and the room / hose temps
I would recommend to used a fan to get fresh in
agreed! i have a second (spare) 4" inline. i can get something goin' with that. will also move back down to the ground floor. second floor is always warmer. would love to do the basement, if it wasn't so dank.
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