Progressing,help!

[D3V!ous_Dankster]

I'll give her a look now...lemme ask does it make a difference on ppm when having salt in tank and no salt?
Cuz I think I need salt ATM


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[D3V!ous_Dankster]

Okay not sure if pen is correct but I am using the kitchen tap instead of bathroom and the ph is a bit high today so I did the solution drops @ 5 drops....oops

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[D3V!ous_Dankster]

Okay I checked the ph pen in these solutions @77 degrees F. When testing the 7.0 pen first read 7.26 adjusted it to 7.0
Now when checking the 4.01 @ same temp first read 3.92 I adjusted it to 4.01 then retested ph and reads 6.61. So is it possible that the meter keeps getting of kilter and I'm ph'ing o low or high

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[jingo]

Unfortunately, you have probably the exact same problem that I have in my area. Your background total dissolved solids are kind of high and being on a water softener your trading out one ion for another ion and it's kind of difficult to grow with that kind of water.

The problem is if you feed straight water overtime just your background water is going to end up causing a nutrient lockout in your soil.

So if you want to grow with soil and that water what you're going to need to do is repot your plants every time they need nutrients until you get into late flower and then you can give flower nutrients. That of course only really works for photo period Growing.

So what I used to do was start a clone pot up after about 2 weeks into a 1 or 2 gallon pot. Then I would put up again into a 3 or 5 gallon pot a couple weeks before I wanted to flip the plant. Then I wouldn't give it any nutrients at all until the last four or five weeks of flower. That really is what a soil like foxfarm is designed for it's a super soil you're not supposed to need nutrients until you're late in flower.

I know some people are using some type of enzymes that help the plants utilize some of the background minerals and I'm not sure how they do it.

I didn't start growing good weed until I started using reverse osmosis water. I was able to do okay with my background water, but your water could be very high in iron and that could cause lock out and so many different problems.

I think the going forward to correct the problem I would flush with non pH'd reverse osmosis or distilled water. I would probably run about two or three times the pots holding capacity through the soil. The main idea would be to try and flush out any of the minerals that come from your well. Then the last bit of water that you pour through it make it about one-quarter to one-third strength and pH

The main reason you're going to feed a little bit with that last flush is you will probably be short a few minerals from lockout and we want to have those available for the plant once you flush those other minerals out. So when you add in that last bit of nutrient water that's the one that you'll have pH two between 5.5 and 6.5.

Going forward I would research enzymes for hard water and I would consider using reverse osmosis or distilled mixed in with my tap water at about a 50/50 rate.

General Hydroponics has a nutrient line designed for hard water of parts per million 150 and above that might be something you could look at down the road also.

When you do feed, you're going to have to count your background water as nutrients. So if your schedule calls for feeding 550 parts from million and your background water is 400 parts per million you can only add 150 parts per million of nutrients. When you look at it that way you can see how you can end up with minerals that your plant really doesn't need and start to get lockout over time.

 

[jingo]

I have a pH pen like yours that I use for a backup just in case. It works okay for that purpose, but honestly a self- calibrating pen would be much easier to use. Just a $50 disposable pen would be okay.

 

[D3V!ous_Dankster]

Unfortunately, you have probably the exact same problem that I have in my area. Your background total dissolved solids are kind of high and being on a water softener your trading out one ion for another ion and it's kind of difficult to grow with that kind of water.

The problem is if you feed straight water overtime just your background water is going to end up causing a nutrient lockout in your soil.

So if you want to grow with soil and that water what you're going to need to do is repot your plants every time they need nutrients until you get into late flower and then you can give flower nutrients. That of course only really works for photo period Growing.

So what I used to do was start a clone pot up after about 2 weeks into a 1 or 2 gallon pot. Then I would put up again into a 3 or 5 gallon pot a couple weeks before I wanted to flip the plant. Then I wouldn't give it any nutrients at all until the last four or five weeks of flower. That really is what a soil like foxfarm is designed for it's a super soil you're not supposed to need nutrients until you're late in flower.

I know some people are using some type of enzymes that help the plants utilize some of the background minerals and I'm not sure how they do it.

I didn't start growing good weed until I started using reverse osmosis water. I was able to do okay with my background water, but your water could be very high in iron and that could cause lock out and so many different problems.

I think the going forward to correct the problem I would flush with non pH'd reverse osmosis or distilled water. I would probably run about two or three times the pots holding capacity through the soil. The main idea would be to try and flush out any of the minerals that come from your well. Then the last bit of water that you pour through it make it about one-quarter to one-third strength and pH

The main reason you're going to feed a little bit with that last flush is you will probably be short a few minerals from lockout and we want to have those available for the plant once you flush those other minerals out. So when you add in that last bit of nutrient water that's the one that you'll have pH two between 5.5 and 6.5.

Going forward I would research enzymes for hard water and I would consider using reverse osmosis or distilled mixed in with my tap water at about a 50/50 rate.

General Hydroponics has a nutrient line designed for hard water of parts per million 150 and above that might be something you could look at down the road also.

When you do feed, you're going to have to count your background water as nutrients. So if your schedule calls for feeding 550 parts from million and your background water is 400 parts per million you can only add 150 parts per million of nutrients. When you look at it that way you can see how you can end up with minerals that your plant really doesn't need and start to get lockout over time.

Okay Holmes,I'm going to flush with distilled water but what I don't get is my white widow is nothing like this.....thus far the 2x short riders don't show this either...the WW is in a mix of OF and LW and the short riders are in ROOTS ORGANIC ORIGINAL
I'm seriously thinking I just can't grow the blueberry strain


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[jingo]

You'd be surprised how plants can vary by strain. Using coco I get to see things happen a lot faster and it's real common for me to go along and just barely notice something on one plant, but another looks fried.

The only soil out of those three that I've used as the ocean Forest. That's soil always seemed to require a little bit more calcium than others that I've used. It was also fairly hot. Those things can all contribute.

 

[D3V!ous_Dankster]

@jingo,what's your take on this.......

http://hannainst.com/hi98108-phep-ph-tester.html



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[jingo]

That looks pretty good. Maybe I'll try that one next time. My theory with meters is that a probe tip will last about 1 year and the batteries will last about one year. So instead of buying an expensive meter and replacing the probe and the batteries I just buy a disposable and throw it away every year. And new probes cost about $50 anyway.

 

[Ripped In Oregon]

Okay Holmes,I'm going to flush with distilled water but what I don't get is my white widow is nothing like this.....thus far the 2x short riders don't show this either...the WW is in a mix of OF and LW and the short riders are in ROOTS ORGANIC ORIGINAL
I'm seriously thinking I just can't grow the blueberry strain

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Blueberry strains can be very sensitive to nutes and not so perfect conditions where other plants may not have a problem. I did the DP BB and it was sensitive to lumens(you could see where the light hit the top and burnt it at an angle where any leaves were exposed leafs were crispy as curly fries) also so it's a matter of knowing what a strain can tolerate and what signs it gives off that a problem is arising so you can control it