Indoor purified vs distilled water

i use just plan tap water that comes out at 7.5 and after letting it sit out for a day, i then bubble it for a day or 2 and my ph rises to 8.0.. just add my nutes and usually drops to 6.3-6.4 range in which i use a few drops of ph down which i have in a dropper and get it where i want it to be at and feed my ladies. I have been seeing great effects with bubbling water..


what do you drop it down to?

a
 
quick question, when flushing the final two weeks does it matter if the ph is to low? i know your flushing out nutes but is flushing with 6.5 water better for the buds/plant than flushing with water with a low ph of lets say 5 or is there no difference? just curious :smokebuds:
 
i thought the stuff in purified water such as calcium chloride, sodium bicarbonate, magnesium sulfate would cause buildup?

The stuff you listed is removed when water is purified via RO ... :toke:


quick question, when flushing the final two weeks does it matter if the ph is to low? i know your flushing out nutes but is flushing with 6.5 water better for the buds/plant than flushing with water with a low ph of lets say 5 or is there no difference? just curious :smokebuds:

Your water should be in the correct ph range for cleansing ... :bong:
 
Flushing again, i had a good long chat with an old old grower mate of mine about that, and he reckoned keep feeding them up to 2 weeks before the end but dont put loads and loads of water throught them, sure give em a good old watering to give them a good drain but not a flush.
In his opinion flushing was meant only for saving over fed plants etc....
I then asked what about smoking nutes?
My reply was that Calyxes do not store nutes for longer then a days cycle. They will eat up everything, so, smoking nutes? not in his experience of growing.
As ive smoked loads from this guy over the last 20 years i believe him as his smoke as always been top notch, he loves the cheese.
In fact whilst having this conversation with him, we were sharing a smoke from one of his crops, Kila Watt.
Which he had grown the same way as he has done for years, good soil, excellent lights and good feed.
But the main thing is patience.
I know there is huge arguments going on about 'is flushing needed' but i prefer to believe what i see and smoke.
And if any theory still stands then i like to chase the proof of that theory scientifically using practical testing.
Peace.
 
what do you drop it down to?

a

Hey sorry i didnt answer this faster for you.. but im water at 8.0 after I bubble it for a day. What i do is then add my nutes and nutes always lower my ph. Depending the dosage I use. I then use ph up or down to water my plants. I use dolomite lime in my soil being that the soil I use out the bag is usually low. I go 1 tbls to the gallon and it puts me at 6.5. I always water my plants at 6.5. I use General hydroponics ph up and down to adjust my water. As for dolomite not sure if you need it as some soil already ammend it into the soil, if you ever add it. It usually tkes around 3 weeks to start raising ph in you medium..

quick question, when flushing the final two weeks does it matter if the ph is to low? i know your flushing out nutes but is flushing with 6.5 water better for the buds/plant than flushing with water with a low ph of lets say 5 or is there no difference? just curious :smokebuds:

my last grow i didn't ph the water when flushing the soil I just used plain water, because at the end of the plants life cycle you just want the plant to use its stored energy in her leaves. Thats why before harvest time you will notice some leaves yellowing giving you a signs sometimes of N def. but its completely normal as she is getting towards the end, but to clear it up for you the final flushing weather you ph it or not it doesn't matter. The final phase of flushing is more for bud taste and to just flush the salts and fertilizers from the soil..
 
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NemesisOne,
Doing the same but never tried fizzy one. What differences have you noticed. Do you use the fizzy water on soil feeding or foliar spray?
Ciao,
 
Hi mate!
Yeah ive noticed they pick right up after a good dose of fizzy, its scary at first cos it all foams up and you can see wisps of white fog! lol But.....alls good in the end, they love it, watch them tip their leaves upwards (like praying) after you've watered em with it.

Personally i use Still water first, to moisten the soil so it doesnt just pour out of the bottom (everywhere in fact if your using air pots like i am)
Then i water with the fizzy and let those bubbles go!!!
Its even a 'old school' trick to leave a opened bottle of fizzy water in the grow room during the day, they love feeding on the Carbon Dioxide.
Thats why they say 'when you talk to your plants, they grow better'
Cos you breathe Carbon Dioxide on them when you talk, thats what they eat!
Dont leave the bottles in there at night tho, they give off oxygen and wont like the Co2 being in the grow room with them at night.
All of this i learnt from some old chool growers and it works a treat

Ohh just remembered, Dont mix the feed with the fizzy! my mate did with BioBizz Grow and Carbonated and lolololol it exploded everywhere!
Loads of Chocolate milkshake all over him and everybody else that was in the 'Shrapnel Zone!'
I werent cos i see it coming!
Laughed so much i thought id broken a rib! lol :crying:

Anyhoo, yeah it works! they love it. And its safer then chemical substitutes or bottled Co2
 
The two plants i have that have gotten watered and fed with purified show no deficeinces and look super healthy but somebody else earlier in this thread said the bicarbonates will effect the long term yield :joint:

yes bicarbs will bring down potential yields even if the levels are low enough to think they are fine the point is you just didn't know it was decreasing your yield

people tellin you bicarbs will be flushed out only applies if the water you are using is rid of them so there is no compounding effect
tap water is fine if you know what is also in it but it varies toooooo much to just say it will be fine as a blanket statement in all cases
just because you have reached a proper ph reading or it can come from the tap at a seemingly perfect 6.5 doesn't make the water automatically ok it just shows at that particullar time the proper balance of + hydrogen atoms was adequate enough
the proper amount of bicarbs is yes essential to exchange but toooo much will give you ph rises because there is a constant adding of - hydrogen atoms that will react w/ the + hydrogen atoms
so you think you are adding a nice 6.5 ph as you water but the case could still be that in the jug before applying there was still tooo many bicarbs going into medium so your ph seems to constantly rise eventhough you know you are giving it a proper ph upon wattering
hope i made this alittle clearer


flushing should not take two weeks unless one usees a heavy soil mix of nutrients that don't readily breakdown as fast and are still heavy in soil/medium and releasing during close to harvest time
similiar if somebody was using a 4-20-20 as axample most say chemical ferts need flushed for this reason because they are at such a high concentration the plant doesn't use what is available every wattering so there is a build-up of ferts in medium that need to be released
this is the main reason people say DON"T use chemical ferts while using beneficial bacteria ...well the key is to not use tooo much

if a proper trim of the buds is done there should be very little leaf matter left which is where the mass majority of storage is

a good surfactant used during flush will break away bonds faster this is in most flushing products a drop or two depending on the concentration of dish soap will put the surfactants in the water to flush and

the problem w/ the "two week" schedule is it is just a simple broad measure really not addressing the amount of watterings needed to flush it is really nutrient source dependant and type of medium used and it's ability to hold on to buildup
 
yes bicarbs will bring down potential yields even if the levels are low enough to think they are fine the point is you just didn't know it was decreasing your yield

people tellin you bicarbs will be flushed out only applies if the water you are using is rid of them so there is no compounding effect
tap water is fine if you know what is also in it but it varies toooooo much to just say it will be fine as a blanket statement in all cases
just because you have reached a proper ph reading or it can come from the tap at a seemingly perfect 6.5 doesn't make the water automatically ok it just shows at that particullar time the proper balance of + hydrogen atoms was adequate enough
the proper amount of bicarbs is yes essential to exchange but toooo much will give you ph rises because there is a constant adding of - hydrogen atoms that will react w/ the + hydrogen atoms
so you think you are adding a nice 6.5 ph as you water but the case could still be that in the jug before applying there was still tooo many bicarbs going into medium so your ph seems to constantly rise eventhough you know you are giving it a proper ph upon wattering
hope i made this alittle clearer


flushing should not take two weeks unless one usees a heavy soil mix of nutrients that don't readily breakdown as fast and are still heavy in soil/medium and releasing during close to harvest time
similiar if somebody was using a 4-20-20 as axample most say chemical ferts need flushed for this reason because they are at such a high concentration the plant doesn't use what is available every wattering so there is a build-up of ferts in medium that need to be released
this is the main reason people say DON"T use chemical ferts while using beneficial bacteria ...well the key is to not use tooo much

if a proper trim of the buds is done there should be very little leaf matter left which is where the mass majority of storage is

a good surfactant used during flush will break away bonds faster this is in most flushing products a drop or two depending on the concentration of dish soap will put the surfactants in the water to flush and

the problem w/ the "two week" schedule is it is just a simple broad measure really not addressing the amount of watterings needed to flush it is really nutrient source dependant and type of medium used and it's ability to hold on to buildup

Still think flushing is a loads of bollox tho lol Sorry.

As the great monty python would say at this conjecture......And now for something completely different.....
 
Still think flushing is a loads of bollox tho lol Sorry.

As the great monty python would say at this conjecture......And now for something completely different.....

depends on the situation
to reccomend to flush is really for the people trying to learn and cover all bases on guarding against ruining taste after along bit of work
just like the rudimentary guideline of 2 weeks for flush to remedy a person learning how to do the process thinking using fert until the day before you cut and then pouring water in before cutting and calling it a flush as a quick example
it is to let somebody learn the process in nature there is of course no real flush per say but most of thoose things don't build up the same as they do in a container or w/ dif mediums

i mentioned if proper trimming was done it really negates most of the major stored energy that causes the much discussed topic

please don't take this the wrong way but i don't need to go ask someone else the answer to the question and come back to simply offer the broad statement that ALL flushing is bollox

i understand the process and why it needs to be done in one situation as opposed to not being needed in another situation
sorta like why i already know the reason adding co2 to the biobizz made it react in such a way I wouldn't have needed to mix it together to say hey i wouldn't advise that:)


but this isn't the thread for flushing as it were but the person who posted it was asking for more specifics
 
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