all the mixes posted seem pretty complicated indeed, however I think you can do much simpler, and then you can experiemt with extra additions later.
first off, in the OP you say a mix for 100 litres, but I don't see anywhere mentioned if this mix will end up in a 100 litre pot, or a 100 lire hole in the ground?
first thing you'd need is a base. something to root in. for pots, things like peat and coir(or a bag of potting soil, which is usually peat mixed with partly composted wood). in full soil, you already have a base, doesn't hurt to mix in some extra organic matter(compost), but you don't need to build a semi-pot by digging a big hole and filling that with potting soil. the plant will root fine in local dirt(sand/clay, different ratios of sand/clay have different properties, but that's a whole topic itself).(also digging such a hole each year would be similar to tilling, over longer term it would be better for soil structure and fungal networks if you can avoid digging around but only topdress with new ammendments).
perlite could be added here to give more airiness, however personally I haven't noticed much difference in plant performance with or without perlite, and perlite is pretty damn expensive. so personally I skip it, however I have mixed it into the soil for my perennials, since during winter(when there's a lot of rain, but little evaporation and transpiration) the soil gets pretty wet/muddy and I suspect this may be one of the reasons my strawberryplants often die in winter. however for annual plants like weed who won't live through winter, I don't really see the point of using perlite, except if you've got too much money.
(btw, I'm personally also not really into coco coir, theoretically it should be fine but every time I tried using it, either on it's own or in a mix, it didn't perform well. so I'll stick to peatbased potting soil for now)
next, nutrients. that's what most of those ammendments provide(so no need to use fertilizers), however instead of thinking about all kinds of individual ingredients, think about the nutrients they contain.
you need NPK, and to a lesser degree micronutrients. of the micronutrients calcium and magnesium are often a bit more needed(why a lot of mixes have dolomite lime), however in full soil you likely will have enough so you wouldn't need to add lime(unless your local soil needs it, look at what farmers around your area are douing to their fields. if they're not liming, you probably won't have to either).
all kinds of different organic ammendments can suply N, P and K. some are slow to breakdown, others release the nutrients very quickly. but in the end, it all breaks down to npk. so look at what's locallty available for you.
I really like chicken manure pellets, they're cheap, widely available and contain a pretty complete spectrum of nutrients. a bit high in N(and part of that is relatively quickly available), so especially good in veg.
another widely available simple option is bonemeal and bloodmeal. bonemeal is slowly released P(steamed bonemeal is more quickly available), so you need to mix it through the soil at the beginning so it has time to break down. bloodmeal is quickly available N. so still missing K with those 2.
personally I'm going to experiment with a product which I don't know the english name of(vinassekali in dutch), a product that suplies K that's a byproduct of the alcoholindustry. I want to use it to supply ,through topdressing, some extra K in flower, when the chicken manure starts running out, but I don't want to add too much N.
compost(that includes wormcompost) is especially nice in full soil, since it ads organic matter which has all kinds of positive effects on soil structure, water holding capacity, etc. in pots it has less benefit(since potting soil is already high in organic matter), but it still contains some nutrients, and also micronutrients, so doesn't hurt to add it.
