Grow Mediums TEAS FOR DWC BUCKETS??

[spelsylver]

I was looking for information about these teas i see everyone using for their soil grows and was wondering if the same could be done for deep water culture. Since i'm not a soil grower i had to read up on what exactly going organic in my dwc bucket would mean and found a recipe for a tea that would act as a product like Zone by dutch master or hygrozyme but better...

...as i understand it the bugs(bacteria) once added to the rootzone will feed off my plants waste and the waste from the bugs benefits my plants. Then Through natural processes the bugs eventually thin themselves out based on the amount of food and the environment provided.

This is important for my bucket because root rot is something that easily creeps up and although my Zone from Dutch Master is working just fine, i wanted to mix up my own creation to see by comparison any beneficial differances in my harvest.

Let me know if you think this will be a good EWC tea for my buckets please. I still consider myself a complete newb grower so any imput from experience anyone might have or corrections, please feel free to let me in on them

Supplies needed:
-Non chlorinated water (i'm using Ro water)
-Aquashield
-ZHO (you can order Mycogrow soluble avail on fungi.com for cheap to replace aquashield AND ZHO)
-EWC (earth worm castings, GH anchient forest works best because of its humus but any EWC is a must)
-Molasses (unsulphured and black strap seams to be brand of choice)
-panty hose or bucket strainers ( NOT required for DWC REQUIRED for any pump system with small parts/sprayers)
-bucket/tub/container...all you aeroponic boys
-bucket
-Air stones
-Air line
-Air pump
-48 hours
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To begin:

Fill bucket with 2.5 gallons of non chlorinated water
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Ph the water, im guessing anywhere between 5.8 and 6.5 should be good. But again, i'm clueless on this part. won't the PH go up after 48 hours of bubbling in the bucket making to bacteria? so maybe i should start on the lower end of 5.8?


Next, I'll add in some AquaShield. the recommended recipe states 15-30ml. I'll go with 20ml...
View attachment 29269


ZHO is next. This is a root inoculant. There is a small measuring cup that comes in the bag so i'll use the smaller scoop half full.
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Can't forget the molasses. this is the food for the microbes. This food will last around 10 days according to the recipe. After 10 days they will run out of DO and become anerobic. This food will always be added to my brewing bucket but never to my rez. I will use 1 tablespoon per 2.5g.
View attachment 29272


Earth Worm Castings- We want about a cup per gallon, Recipe calls for 2 hand fulls per 2.5g so I chose 2x cups. You can pre strain or post strain. Im sure reproduction is quicker if the ewc was in the soup but I figured ill try pre straining it first. I've got good airstones and don't want to clog anything up.
View attachment 29271


finally, place bucket strainer or panty hose below water line and place over your air supply (air stone in my case). Then tie off the strainer to your bucket handle.
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and vuala! Put a dark towel over the bucket for 24-48 hours and EWC tea should be ready to go!
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Usage:

- If you currently have rot and want to remove it, use this ratio.
- First use a product like h202 to clean system.
- Make sure not to add h202 to rez at it will kill all the beneficial bacteria
- Use one cup of EWC TEA per Gallon of water
- Add 1 Cup every 3 days, when you notice root rot clearing up scale back.

Daily protection:

- If you dont have rot and you want to keep the rot/pathogens away you only need to use 1 cup per 10 gallons of water to properly inoculate it.


That's all folks. Let me know if this recipe could be added upon/tweaked in anyway. Thanks for taking the time to read this!

-DWC Princess

 

[gsbm2312]

Thank you very much for sharing with us bro! I always wanted to give DWC a hit and now you broght us the organic recipe, I am sort of forced to bookmark this thread!

Once I saw a Lowryder#2 from a bubbler... damn what a huge plant! Biggest I've ever seen!

Still, I'd like to see your results, are you making any paralel journal with this bubler???
(I wonder how often do you change the water and clean the reservoir)

For those who are like me in between hydro and soil...

(Hope I don't get flamed for sharing other forum's content here)
DIY: Build your own bubbler cheap and easy! (Grass-City Forums)

 

[spelsylver]

Hey no problem!

As far as when to change the buckets, I've been reading the smell is the biggest clue. Earthy, mossy and even swampy are all okay smells. Smells of decay, gym socks and feces is not okay. The tea often starts out with no smell or rather it smells like sweet water, then it develops into earthy, and by 48 hrs it gets a little swampy. After 10 days the fecal smell develops and its time to start over.

Note that the myrogrow powder from fungi com has a fecal smell on its own and when you first put it in the tea.

I will be adding this tea to my auto syrup that I have going that's about 25 days old right now. You can find my journal floating on afn if you want to see the results. Ill probably be putting the tea in next week when I give it its first dose of nutes...

If you're stuck between hydro and soil ever give hempy buckets a thought? Coco coir has also proven to be a great medium to grow in! Id say dwc buckets are great if you have the time to spend of individual buckets. 4 buckets are workable but more than that and it will be more of a pain in the ass and time consuming than anything. 4 seems to be my comfort zone.

Ill be posting more info on this thread on the specific bacterias in the tea and how they actually work. Still gathering all the info!

Glad you stopped by and found this useful! Stay tuned for more

 

[gsbm2312]

The thing whit hydro is the higher cost to start... ec meter, ph meter... reverse osmosis... nutes...

Its just easier and more forgiving to start with soil, thats no doubt... but hell I dream growing the HUGE buds I see people obtain with hydro!

(These doesnt seem to be automatic tought, they are probably regular strains... but will you deny that these buds are like porn?)


One damn bucket...13 x 21oz jars!

Thats way too much weed for me... I'd cure them for months!

(pics "stolen" from Grass-City Forums, more specifically from here)

 

[realcarlos]

Thanks!!! I'm from Canada so just curious where could some of products you listed be purchased from?

 

[spelsylver]

1st off earth worms casting and any "poop" is not created equally. Different food sources gives you different bacteria. 2nd, when you use the bubbling bucket method you will hae millions of live bactera in 24-48 hours but also some will have completed their life cycle by then (died) so you will always end up with different results (tea)

As for where I personally picked these products up, most of them came from my local hydroponic store. I got the aquashield, ZHO, EWC, from there...the molassas you can pick up at the grocery store, bucket at any store like home depot, and the airstone, id pick up a cheapy one for the brew at your local pet store along with the air pump and black air lines. Cover the bucket with a dark towel...

If you don't have a hydro store you should be able to find all of these products online, although paying for shipping is always a pain in the ass!

the love you withold is the pain that you carry

 

[agito]

I would not run teas in dwc for 2 main reasons
1. getting all your macros in the right balance will be near on imposible
2.some organic solutions go of in hydro very quickly (confirmed by biobizz) and the solution would have to be dropped every 2 days

if you had alot of time a did not mind tinkering i would look at aquaponics or buy canna organic hydro solution but hey i never tried it but if it works for you go for it.

 

[spelsylver]

There are LOTS of different products i could use and have been actually. I have some buckets with hygrozyme which works well and some with Zone by Dutch Master which in my opinion works excellent. I was looking for a more organic homemade approach to this to further understand how all the bacterias are developing and breaking down in my bucket as im a brand new grower. as a new grower, ive been confused about all these *zyme products in general and didn't want to literally pour beneficials down the drain by combining them. The real key I think is that one can buy something like Subculture from GH and propagate it further by brewing tea. Brewing tea also allows your bene microbe products last much longer. The cheapest and the most diverse combo ive found on the internet seems to be Ancient Forest + Mycogrow soluble.

What you really want is
*Bacillus subtilis
*Trichoderma
*Mycorrhizae
*Glomus

I've been doing a ton of reading and kept seeing this word: rhizosphere. for anyone curious about what rhizoshere is...Well rhizospheres refer to soil, in hydro, we are talking about a rhizoplane. A rhizosphere can be easily washed away with rain, while the rhizoplane remains even after vigorous flooding. It simply refers to the microlife and environment that surrounds the roots surface. Bacteria and fungi that live within the cells of the root are not considered a part of the rhizoplane, but are instead called endophytes.

I also found this nice list explaining what some of the most important microbes do...

Bacillus - The unifying characteristic of Bacillus bacteria is that they are Gram-positive, form endospores, and grow in the presence of O2. The trivial name assigned to them is aerobic sporeformers.

Bacillus subtilis - (Bacillus uniflagellatus, Bacillus globigii, Bacillus natto) Bacillus subtilis cells are rod-shaped bacteria that are naturally found in soil and vegetation. Bacillus subtilis grow in the mesophilic temperature range. The optimal temperature is 25-35 degrees Celsius. Stress and starvation are common in this environment, therefore, Bacillus subtilis has evolved a set of strategies that allow survival under these harsh conditions. Bacillus subtilis bacteria are non-pathogenic. They can contaminate food, however, they seldom result in food poisoning. They are used on plants as a fungicide. They are also used on agricultural seeds, such as vegetable and soybean seeds, as a fungicide. The bacteria, colonized on root systems, compete with disease causing fungal organisms. Bacillus subtilis use as a fungicide fortunately does not affect human.

Paenibacillus polymyxa - Nitrogen fixer and plant growth-promoting rhizobacterium with a broad host range. Fluorescence microscopy and electron scanning microscopy indicated that the bacteria colonized predominantly the root tip, where they formed biofilms.
Certain bacteria are capable of fixing nitrogen. In this process, nitrogen gas (N2) is converted to ammonium (NH4+), a form of nitrogen that is biologically available to plants. The reaction is catalyzed by the enzyme nitrogenase. Because nitrogenase is inactivated by oxygen, the reaction must occur in a low oxygen environment. (So we don't get much of this in a DWC)

Bacillus amyloliquefaciens - strains of B. amyloliquefaciens bacteria, which occur in association with certain plants, are known to synthesize several different antibiotic substances, including bacillaene, macrolactin, and difficidin. Among NRPS antibiotics, Bacillus amyloliquefaciens was found to produce surfactin, iturin A, fengycin A and fengycin B. By modifying cell surface properties, surfactin and iturin were reported to positively influence cell spreading, swarming and biofilm formation and thus may globally favour plant root colonization. Furthermore, iturins and fengycins display strong antifugal activity and are inhibitory for the growth of a wide range of plant pathogens.

Another recently established role for lipopeptides from beneficial Bacillus isolates is the stimulation of the plant immune system. Surfactins and, to a lesser extent, fengycins can induce a priming state in host plant which allows an accelerated activation of defense responses upon pathogen or insect attack, leading to an enhanced resistance to the attacker encountered.

Trichoderma harzianum is a fungus that is also used as a fungicide. It is used for foliar application, seed treatment and soil treatment for suppression of various disease causing fungal pathogens. Trichoderma readily colonizes plant roots and some strains are rhizosphere competent i.e. able to grow on roots as they develop. Trichoderma spp. also attack, parasitize and otherwise gain nutrition from other fungi. They have evolved numerous mechanisms for both attack of other fungi and for enhancing plant and root growth. Different strains of Trichoderma control almost every pathogenic fungus for which control has been sought.

Glomus intradices - In numerous scientific studies G. intraradices has been shown to increase phosphorus uptake in multiple plants as well as improve soil aggregation due to hyphae. In hydro the hyphae greatly increase the surface area of the roots. Helps in displacement of harmful microbes by depriving them of housing and food.

As I stated, the plant will actually sense the presence of microbes, and send some food down to the roots for them. This can appear as a very slight coating of slime.

Plant-derived compounds are responsible for providing the additional carbon that allows the rhizosphere to host a large variety of organisms. These compounds fall into five categories: exudates, secretions, mucilages, mucigel, and lysates.

Exudates include surplus sugars, amino acids, and aeromatics that diffuse out of cells to the intercellular space and surrounding soil.

Secretions are byproducts of metabolic activity.

Mucilages are cells sloughed off the root cap as the root grows.

Mucigel is a slime coating the surface of a root that increases the connectivity between plant roots and the surrounding soil.

Lysates from within the cell become available to the surrounding microbial community when an epidermal root cell dies and is broken open



Sources
Microbe-wiki
mass nature
Bacteria textbook
Cell Factories

 

[uptosumpn]

Wow, great info STILL after all these years! :kusht: