Transition Issue

[SirGreen]

no bother at all SG'! These girls look great, just a little edge curl happening, but I think the color is fine (are these under a COB or MH?), always a bit hard to say with the way lights, cameras and computers change it,... what has you concerned? Dropping the light hours should be no problem, more likely increasing them would be potentially problematic,... there's all manner of opinion about this, but many folks see little difference between 18/6 and 20/4 in terms of yield and quality,... there's even more barking about 24/0, the need or even benefit of any dark period with auto's,.. And I can't make a general call on this from what I've seen here! some run 24/0 and spank their grows time after time,.. others don't find it working well for them... I think it has a lot to do with the strain, nute's and the environmental control/optimal conditions,... true, auto's don't seem to NEED dark periods, but this biologist thinks there's something inherently beneficial to having some dark time... the plants normal physiology and metabolism is evolved around having some dark hours, when other processes (excluding respiration, which goes on continuously) going on during this time are not competing with, or getting interfered by the entire photosynthetic machinery and peripheral processes,...

EC/TDS meters are great tools! Analyzing your water hardness and pH is key starting info for any grow,.. it will determine what, if anything needs to be done with your water.. it also gives you your base line ppms/EC before you add nutes,... TDS/ppm is in fact an extrapolation of EC; EC is universal too, but the conversion from EC to TDS/ppm's is not, depending on where you live and the type/make of TDS meter... I believe 1.0EC =500ppm (US)= 640 (EU) = 700 (Aussie)..... For sure, you know already that different strains, sometimes even pheno's, will have different nute tolerances and demands... and there is no compromise on pH management, it's key to keeping nutrients available regardless of EC! Cheers mate...

Ok!
I was wondering because i see that after 16/18 hours of light they really start to wilt!

I always measure EC and PH and try to keep all the parameters in the right edges.
My tap water, after 24h sitting is 300 EC more or less. And this should be fine, right?
Then, once i add nutes i measure again and i try to lift EC where i want depending on the age of the plants.
What I've noticed is that different plants need different parameters.
For example Auto Ultimate seems to belong to another category from the other plants.
Anyway i've discovered that te only thing that leads u to a higher growing level is experience.
Thank u again my friend.
U r very appreciated

 

[Waira]

the plants wilt after 16-18hrs of light? that's very odd SG, I thought you had the RH issue dealt with well enough..? Now, sometimes just before lights out, or shortly after, the fan leaves can adopt a droopy posture... some of my outdoor girls do this at night,...

OK, 300 EC makes no sense- LOL! You mean 300ppm? ..Or 0.3EC?

 

[SirGreen]

Hahah
I meant 0.3 EC.
For example at the mom i'm having 7 AGOGs passi g their transition phase ( day 36 ) and some of em are starting to show pale aspect at the edge of the stems.
It's like they need more of something.
I assure u that temps and RH is PERFECT at the mom!
I'm feeding em EC 1.3 at the mom and they're doind pretty well, but I'm afraid that they will get pale more and more as often happens.

the plants wilt after 16-18hrs of light? that's very odd SG, I thought you had the RH issue dealt with well enough..? Now, sometimes just before lights out, or shortly after, the fan leaves can adopt a droopy posture... some of my outdoor girls do this at night,...

OK, 300 EC makes no sense- LOL! You mean 300ppm? ..Or 0.3EC?

 

[SirGreen]

From the moment they are drinking 2,5/3l per day now, i was thinking to alternate feeding and ph'ed waterings because they're showing bad tip burn .
What do u think?

 

[Yeatster]

I quit using AN B52 because it caused weird shit like this. I would quit using the B52 and see if that helps.

That's so crazy you said that. I've had this same transition issue and Ive suspected B-52, among a million other things. I'm gonna lay off for a bit n see. Thanks mang!

 

[Waira]

Sg, did you ever get that Earth Juice Microblast? This yellowing at the very tops hints at immobile nute defc., like Fe, Zn, and S, which often hits more or less all over, tops worst and first,... Fe and Zn tend to be more localized,... again, the medium pH is the key here; S locks out under too low pH, conversely Fe/Zn over 7.0,...

tip burn is nute strength issue, and /or salt build-up; with the RH having been low, or still is, the rapid water loss can pull more nutes up than she can use, excess making the burned tips, even if you're feeding pretty lightly,... you know SG, a foliar spray with epsoms might be worth a try, and it's early enough in bloom; it'll get that S in there and bypass the roots,... about 1tsp/L, and be sure to use a wetting agent, spray tops and bottoms of leaves, leave out away from direct light until dry,... you cab re-wet with plain water to re-dissolve surface remains, and get a little more in there and clean up at the same time! The EJ product is largely sulfate based, so it covers all the bases for micronute's and S,...

 

[SirGreen]

Sg, did you ever get that Earth Juice Microblast? This yellowing at the very tops hints at immobile nute defc., like Fe, Zn, and S, which often hits more or less all over, tops worst and first,... Fe and Zn tend to be more localized,... again, the medium pH is the key here; S locks out under too low pH, conversely Fe/Zn over 7.0,...

tip burn is nute strength issue, and /or salt build-up; with the RH having been low, or still is, the rapid water loss can pull more nutes up than she can use, excess making the burned tips, even if you're feeding pretty lightly,... you know SG, a foliar spray with epsoms might be worth a try, and it's early enough in bloom; it'll get that S in there and bypass the roots,... about 1tsp/L, and be sure to use a wetting agent, spray tops and bottoms of leaves, leave out away from direct light until dry,... you cab re-wet with plain water to re-dissolve surface remains, and get a little more in there and clean up at the same time! The EJ product is largely sulfate based, so it covers all the bases for micronute's and S,...

S or Zinc def is what i've been suspecting too.
The fact is that everytime i measure soil ph it seems to be perfect.
What i do is take a bunch of soil (deeper soil ) and mix it 1:1 with 7 ph water; let it sit for 24 hrs, then filter 2/3 times the water and measure ph.
It always comes out between 6 and 7.
What makes me crazy is the fact that this pale looking starts to show ALWAYS in the same week: transition - first bloom week.

 

[SirGreen]

Sg, did you ever get that Earth Juice Microblast? This yellowing at the very tops hints at immobile nute defc., like Fe, Zn, and S, which often hits more or less all over, tops worst and first,... Fe and Zn tend to be more localized,... again, the medium pH is the key here; S locks out under too low pH, conversely Fe/Zn over 7.0,...

tip burn is nute strength issue, and /or salt build-up; with the RH having been low, or still is, the rapid water loss can pull more nutes up than she can use, excess making the burned tips, even if you're feeding pretty lightly,... you know SG, a foliar spray with epsoms might be worth a try, and it's early enough in bloom; it'll get that S in there and bypass the roots,... about 1tsp/L, and be sure to use a wetting agent, spray tops and bottoms of leaves, leave out away from direct light until dry,... you cab re-wet with plain water to re-dissolve surface remains, and get a little more in there and clean up at the same time! The EJ product is largely sulfate based, so it covers all the bases for micronute's and S,...

Oh and I forgot to tell u that ph is being perfect now.
And it has been low for less than a week 2 weeks ago.
Anyway I don't think ph could be the issue cause this situation is always present in my grows (almost always) and ph being this low is not a constant problem in the tent.