What went wrong with those babies? Want to learn from my mistake

[StuntMaster]

-Problem: Seedlings Dying
-Medium/grow method: 40% Peat, 40% Perlite, 20% Wormcastings
-Feed and supplements used: Green House Feeding Grow 0,4gr/L and other Organic Nutes (Flowermind and Bokashi)
-Water source: TAP PH 7, PPM 80
-Strain and age: FastBuds Banana Purple Punch, 3 Weeks
-Climate: 20-25oC, 65-75% umidity
- Light used: 240w led @ 24" - 30% Power
-Additional info: They started drying, the lower leaves drying a week ago after I started the nutes. I´ve already flushed them with pH (6.0) water fearing overnutes, but they wont get back. I´m already planning on reset and new sprouts, but I really wanna be sure what has gone wrong so I can learn with this.

--Pictures

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

@KushBR Welcome to AFN. It looks to me like your soil was way too "HOT" = too much fertilizer for seedlings. Those plants might still make it and I would stick with it to see. You can learn from your mistakes. I would get a line of organic based nutrients to try to balance out what you have. Make sure to get one with calcium since you did not add any Dolomite Lime to your soil.

Here is a primer on salt fertilizers.

Tutorial - A word on Nutrients

The proper use of “salt” based fertilizer to grow Auto Flowering Cannabis. Salts: Natural and man made any chemical compound formed from the reaction of an acid with a base, with all or part of the hydrogen of the acid replaced by a metal or other cation. Learning how to use salt based...

www.autoflower.org

Did you cook the soil mix for a few weeks before you planted? This is really needed with organic based soils. Flushing soil is always a mistake. Where did you get your soil recipe? I don't like that mix for cannabis.

Go to Buildasoil.com and get some recipes

 

[StuntMaster]

@KushBR Welcome to AFN. It looks to me like your soil was way too "HOT" = too much fertilizer for seedlings. Those plants might still make it and I would stick with it to see. You can learn from your mistakes. I would get a line of organic based nutrients to try to balance out what you have. Make sure to get one with calcium since you did not add any Dolomite Lime to your soil.

Here is a primer on salt fertilizers.

Tutorial - A word on Nutrients

The proper use of “salt” based fertilizer to grow Auto Flowering Cannabis. Salts: Natural and man made any chemical compound formed from the reaction of an acid with a base, with all or part of the hydrogen of the acid replaced by a metal or other cation. Learning how to use salt based...

www.autoflower.org

Did you cook the soil mix for a few weeks before you planted? This is really needed with organic based soils. Flushing soil is always a mistake. Where did you get your soil recipe? I don't like that mix for cannabis.

Go to Buildasoil.com and get some recipes

Thankyou for replying Mañ'O'Green! This is my second grow. You already saved my first one! Haha

Since I´ve tried to flush a non soiless mix (20% wormcastings), I guess I must have overwatered too! Heh
It´s been 2 days since the light flush (4 liters per pot);

I didn´t cooked the soil, bought it ready to use cause I don´t have the expertise to elaborate my own soil. But it felt very airy and well made:
"FSMIX#11 - PEAT + PERLITE + HUMUS Soil developed for use with biological fertilizer for automatic plants. Simple, well-aerated soil with 20% organic matter COMPOSITION: 40% Canadian Sphagno Peat 40% Perlite PAC - granulometry from 3 to 5 mm 20% California Red Worm Hummus - 100% PURE Worm Hummus - MADE WITH PURE CATTLE MANAGE"

Now, if you think they can be saved, I can only try!
Would you help me out with the rescue plan for the babies?
1) Way for the top soil to dry and;
2) Fertigate with Organic Nutes (Light Dose) (https://www.flowermind.co/).

On the other hand, I´m going to start new seeds meanwhile, and I´m planning on using:
- Soiless: 50% Jiffy Sphagnum Peat, 50% Perlite, Acidity Correction and Base Fertilizer: pH: 5.5~5.8 EC :0.4 Dry metric density: 155.7 kg/m³
- Green House Feeding Minerals: Calcium, Grow, Short Flowering and Booster
Is this a good new plan? I would go for coco, but I can´t do it with the high fertigation rate (my wife will ask for divorce)

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

Well that is a whole different story. I am not familiar with those nutrients so just follow their instructions starting at about 60% strength for autos.

Every time you change your soil composition you start a new learning curve. I don't recommend that when learning how to grow.

What you need to learn about watering will come with practice. Here are the basic rules: Never let the soil dry out. Soil and or coco can become hydrophobic if allowed to dry. This means it repels water. This in turn will create dry pockets in the soil and the roots and microbes will die there. If your soil - coco have accidentally dried out use a surfactant to help re-wet it. I like yucca powder. Don't let soil remain soggy by watering too much too often. Root rot, damping off, molds, fungus gnats and other problems start in soggy soil. When you do water water the entire pot. How to learn when to water starts before you plant the seed. Fill your container with fresh soil/coco and weigh it (heft it) this is the lightest weight and consider it a dry pot. Now slowly water until the soil/coco will no longer absorb the water and run-off begins; weigh the pot (heft it) this is the maximum water, the wettest the pot can get. The difference between wettest and driest is the maximum water weight, for ease of explanation lets just say the water weighs 20 pounds. When the pot loses 10 pounds (half of the water weight) it is time to water again. Slowly wet ALL of the soil until run-off begins. There is an art to watering.

 

[JP1]

I would go for coco, but I can´t do it with the high fertigation rate (my wife will ask for divorce)

You can totally grow in 5 gallon pots of coco with once a day watering. Just make sure you don't miss a day

 

[tronN00dles]

Are you in Canada? If so, look into Pro-Mix HP. That's peat + perlite + dolomite lime for pH correction and calcium + mycorrhizae, and available at most hardware stores. Works great with any balanced liquid fertilizer program if you're into soilless mixes and measuring pH, ppm/EC, etc...

 

[DCLXVI]

I would go for coco, but I can´t do it with the high fertigation rate (my wife will ask for divorce)

Aye, you can totally do it. I understand the "risk" there. However, a decent size pot, as jerseyphresh suggested, you could go 2x a day, before and after work pretty easily. Especially on an auto with an 18/6 cycle.

 

[StuntMaster]

Well that is a whole different story. I am not familiar with those nutrients so just follow their instructions starting at about 60% strength for autos.

Every time you change your soil composition you start a new learning curve. I don't recommend that when learning how to grow.

What you need to learn about watering will come with practice. Here are the basic rules: Never let the soil dry out. Soil and or coco can become hydrophobic if allowed to dry. This means it repels water. This in turn will create dry pockets in the soil and the roots and microbes will die there. If your soil - coco have accidentally dried out use a surfactant to help re-wet it. I like yucca powder. Don't let soil remain soggy by watering too much too often. Root rot, damping off, molds, fungus gnats and other problems start in soggy soil. When you do water water the entire pot. How to learn when to water starts before you plant the seed. Fill your container with fresh soil/coco and weigh it (heft it) this is the lightest weight and consider it a dry pot. Now slowly water until the soil/coco will no longer absorb the water and run-off begins; weigh the pot (heft it) this is the maximum water, the wettest the pot can get. The difference between wettest and driest is the maximum water weight, for ease of explanation lets just say the water weighs 20 pounds. When the pot loses 10 pounds (half of the water weight) it is time to water again. Slowly wet ALL of the soil until run-off begins. There is an art to watering.

Hey Mañ'O'Green

Take a look at the "Yennefers" couple of days later, I´ve feeded them very lightly with organic nutes.
What do you guys think?

 

[StuntMaster]

Aye, you can totally do it. I understand the "risk" there. However, a decent size pot, as jerseyphresh suggested, you could go 2x a day, before and after work pretty easily. Especially on an auto with an 18/6 cycle.

I´m itching myself for a coco run, but maybe next year. With a newborn in the house I cannot afford spending too much time on the tent.
Thankyou guys for the 5gallon tip!

 

[StuntMaster]

Are you in Canada? If so, look into Pro-Mix HP. That's peat + perlite + dolomite lime for pH correction and calcium + mycorrhizae, and available at most hardware stores. Works great with any balanced liquid fertilizer program if you're into soilless mixes and measuring pH, ppm/EC, etc...

I live in Brazil!
I´ve just bought the Promix with lime as recommended by you and ManOGreen:

PROMIX 5050 50L Features - PROFESSIONAL LEVEL - Sphagnum peat and perlite in the proportion of 50% of each element. - Special and inert mixture for growing in pots and hydroponic growing with substrate. - High drainage - Fast drying. - Higher level of oxygenation of the roots.

SUNSHINE MIX #6 It does not contain aggregates, allowing greater control of drainage according to management. Premix #6 blend is a combination of Canadian Sphagnum Peat, dolomitic limestone, proprietary wetting agent, microelements and a lower fertilizer load. Recommended use: pure or to add aggregates, according to preference.

Physical-Chemical Characteristics: - pH: 6.0 + - 0.50 - ec (dS m-¹): 0.90 + - 0.30 - Air holding capacity: 10 -15% - Water holding capacity: 50 - 60% - N: 20 - 40 ppm - P: 05 - 25 ppm - Ca: 50 - 190 ppm - Mg: 30 - 100 ppm - Fe: 0.1- 1.0 ppm - Cu: 0.005 - 0.015 ppm - B: 0.05 - 0.3 ppm - Zn: 0.03 - 0.5 ppm - Mo: 0.005 - 0.015 ppm

PROMIX 5050 Specification - pH 5.8 - 6.2 - EC 0.3 - Humidity.: 60.15 - Density. 190kg/m3 - CRA: 446

Despite the outcome of the "Yennefers", I´ll start new autos next week with this soiless mix and plan to feed only with Green House Feeding Mineral Powder.