Lighting Why not 24 hrs?

I use 24 hour light schedule. IMO they need no rest they need energy to grow huge and finish quicker. The one is a auto extreme grown under 24 and a Think different
 

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Fn those are some beauties!! Great job. i have to give the extreme a go..
 
For what its worth, I'm experimenting with a radical different approach. The Gas Lantern Routine.

12 on
5.5 off
1 on
5.5 off

= 13h on / day. Major electrical saving, and looking damn fine so far.

Not to hijack, but if anyone interested https://www.autoflower.org/f52/reve...routine-dutch-pro-new-led-spectrum-38355.html

After this grow I'll be doing a major room revamp, and hope to have the conditions to do a side by side GLR vs 24/0 vs 18/6
 
my cfls run 24/7 but I shut my led off all the time and ive grown 7 autos under led now and none have hermied. but every photo I grew hermied from light leaks. just thought I would throw that out there, and a lot of people might call bullshit but that's 100% truth. but I can also make my plants grow the way I want them everytime just by knowing where what and when to trim. for those that don't believe can look at all my past grows, its not a coincidence they all have the exact same structure yet there different strains from different breeders( for the most part) I want 8-12 colas with buds stacked on top of each other. and that's what I grow everytime.
 
That's how I used to make seeds in my photo grows indoor, light stress they always hermed.
 
my cfls run 24/7 but I shut my led off all the time and ive grown 7 autos under led now and none have hermied. but every photo I grew hermied from light leaks. just thought I would throw that out there, and a lot of people might call bullshit but that's 100% truth. but I can also make my plants grow the way I want them everytime just by knowing where what and when to trim. for those that don't believe can look at all my past grows, its not a coincidence they all have the exact same structure yet there different strains from different breeders( for the most part) I want 8-12 colas with buds stacked on top of each other. and that's what I grow everytime.

Mind expanding on that trim-tech please?
 
cant explain bro. all depends on the starting structure of each plant. most all my pics of autos were posted under autoflower pics back then. take a look. I got a 40- something day old nlb and a blue auto mazar that im gonna post pics of later and you can tell they are gonna look the same also. I go for the most yield in the smallest space. my last blue diesel was half smoked when I chopped and she was 40 something grams. so she woulda been close to 100 gs dry and she was only 15-16 inchs tall.
 
cant explain bro. all depends on the starting structure of each plant. most all my pics of autos were posted under autoflower pics back then. take a look. I got a 40- something day old nlb and a blue auto mazar that im gonna post pics of later and you can tell they are gonna look the same also. I go for the most yield in the smallest space. my last blue diesel was half smoked when I chopped and she was 40 something grams. so she woulda been close to 100 gs dry and she was only 15-16 inchs tall.

After I read The Groff's request on how you keep your plants small I went to go see if I could find out the techniques you were using.

I had a quick look through the thread in you sig and noticed you fim which is I am guessing part of your technique.

By fimming you slow verticle growth and this encorages the side banches to lengthen to aroundthe same height as the fimmed part of the plant something I have done myself. This gives a shoter plant with a larger amount of colas.

Are there other methods you use,each plant is different but there are only so many methods you employ and rather than give and exact method to be used with every plant, it would be enlightening just to know some of the methods.


My method for small yet high yielding plants is fairly straight forwards.

Start in 1.4liter pots 10cm x 10cm x 17 cm deep, I now prefer to use coco but a good compost with added perlite (25%) works too.

At first sign of sex transplant to final pot I have been using 8.5liter square pots with clay pebbles in the bottom with canna coco professional plus, with added perlite and Dia hydro (Diatomite clay) for silicon content.
You dont have to add the extra perlite or the Dia-Hydro, they are just what I like to put in. The extra perlite because I like a nice airy mix, but it also means more watering.

Transplating at sex in effect shocks the plant right at the point where the plant would normally stretch. This work very nicely.

I then keep the temp stable with no fluctuations this this also reduces stretch.

The greater the temp difference between dark and light periods the more stretch you will get by minimzing the temp difference you will get less stretch and shorter internodal distances.

I use 24 hour light, but there is no reason why a thermostatically controlled tube heater shouldn't be used in the dark period it you use a different lighting regime ie 18/6 etc.

In my last grow I got 2.5 OZ from a 12" Auto bomb and 5 OZ from a 18" Northern Lights with a little lst 4 small plants (2 Auto Bomb & 2 Northern Lights yielded 14.75 OZ) under 510 actual watts LED

I used Short Flowering Powder feed, cal/mag,Molasses & 13/14 PK boost for my nutes.

I will also say I think Using the veg switch on my LED was very useful as my babes were very squat and did not need to stretch for the light in this early stage of their life.
 
After I read The Groff's request on how you keep your plants small I went to go see if I could find out the techniques you were using.

I had a quick look through the thread in you sig and noticed you fim which is I am guessing part of your technique.

By fimming you slow verticle growth and this encorages the side banches to lengthen to aroundthe same height as the fimmed part of the plant something I have done myself. This gives a shoter plant with a larger amount of colas.

Are there other methods you use,each plant is different but there are only so many methods you employ and rather than give and exact method to be used with every plant, it would be enlightening just to know some of the methods.


My method for small yet high yielding plants is fairly straight forwards.

Start in 1.4liter pots 10cm x 10cm x 17 cm deep, I now prefer to use coco but a good compost with added perlite (25%) works too.

At first sign of sex transplant to final pot I have been using 8.5liter square pots with clay pebbles in the bottom with canna coco professional plus, with added perlite and Dia hydro (Diatomite clay) for silicon content.
You dont have to add the extra perlite or the Dia-Hydro, they are just what I like to put in. The extra perlite because I like a nice airy mix, but it also means more watering.

Transplating at sex in effect shocks the plant right at the point where the plant would normally stretch. This work very nicely.

I then keep the temp stable with no fluctuations this this also reduces stretch.

The greater the temp difference between dark and light periods the more stretch you will get by minimzing the temp difference you will get less stretch and shorter internodal distances.

I use 24 hour light, but there is no reason why a thermostatically controlled tube heater shouldn't be used in the dark period it you use a different lighting regime ie 18/6 etc.

In my last grow I got 2.5 OZ from a 12" Auto bomb and 5 OZ from a 18" Northern Lights with a little lst 4 small plants (2 Auto Bomb & 2 Northern Lights yielded 14.75 OZ) under 510 actual watts LED

I used Short Flowering Powder feed, cal/mag,Molasses & 13/14 PK boost for my nutes.

I will also say I think Using the veg switch on my LED was very useful as my babes were very squat and did not need to stretch for the light in this early stage of their life.

Oh man Arty... I read a lot of your posts and answers and i am so impressed. You always take your time and write long post full of useful info.
Its guys like you that makes this forum so great.

Keep up the good work.

:slap: to you brother.

Jim
 
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