Egzoset

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Salutations,

This present challenge was previously posted on Drugs-Forum and it is addressed to readers capable of coping with wood and metal work involving tools as the saw-blade illustrated below:

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A large screwdriver will be handy for those who decide to modify their pipe's wooden ball:

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The part still attached to this refurbished VG Classic Bowl needs to be ejected 1st, hit hard enough for it to slip out. No need to destroy any wood handle, though it felt usefull after a while...

Take note i've tagged the part which comes out as a "Monobloc" ([HASHTAG]#2[/HASHTAG]):

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While i refer to a "Flame-Catcher" ([HASHTAG]#1[/HASHTAG]) relatively to its associated topping part which requires internal sphere access before it can be removed as well.

Next this is a Genuine VaporGenie sphere (on top) besides successive transformations:

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That's not mandatory but it allows conversion to blue torch flames which prove much cleaner than yellow ones, not to mention that's most beneficial in "Burst" mode where intense/brief "Heat Charges" are being used instead of slow/steady continuous heating.

There are 3 reasons to do this: [HASHTAG]#1[/HASHTAG]) The Flame-Catcher + Monobloc path must be shortened because exhaust gasses would accumulate and cause blue flames to self-extinguish otherwise. [HASHTAG]#2[/HASHTAG]) Such reconfiguration opens the door to "The Shortest Path of Lesser Transformation" by allowing its core to be moved closer to the workload once converted into a hybrid SiC + metal version (notice new replacement sandwich structure, schematized top-left):

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[HASHTAG]#3[/HASHTAG]) The recessed Guard-Band protects operator skin while climbing the learning curve, then it's still good for the furniture... Keep in mind no overheat condition emerges in typical pulsed mode as the whole toking last only about 12 ±3 seconds with a direct "Pre-Heating" period of 2½ ~ 3 seconds (including alignement of the flame with said Flame-Catcher then its later removal before the flame can be extinguished).

Which makes me think of a most important feature i call the flexible PVC "Tubing Extension" since it paves the way to self-awareness! ... Besides a much more convenient "Line-of-Sight" (to a flame's tip) this also results in "Harm Reduction" considering that water vapor collecting on the inside wall happens to reflect both clean-burning butane intake (H2O + CO2, providing "Potentialization" of the "Heat Charge" followed by "Self-Moisturization") and hence cannabic consumption profile too (since the ~125 mg workload and temporarily stored "Packet" heat-source are matched).

In clearer terms, the more we toke the more this plastic tube changes from translucid to milky, because water is gradually absorbed by such synthetic material:

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A typical 2 ~ 3 tokes session hardly makes this a problem, though as the toking progresses towards abuse it becomes necessary to shake off the excess droplets then change the cotton particles filter with a dry one (otherwise airflow is increasingly restricted). Overall the tool promotes a healthier consumption method though without imposing it, but i believe repeated enhanced aroma/taste appreciation combined to riding the "Tolerance" threshold instead of heading for a "T-Break" represents quite some reward on its own, because ultimately it guides the user towards a life-style with self-vilification practically removed.

Even better. The Hybrid Core serving as a temporary Thermal Bottle implements "Packetization" by virtue of metal weight, metalurgical formulation and temperature. After a dozen generations of iterative testing the final configuration appropriately matches its Heat Charge with the cannabic bowl, which now invites a discussion on this:

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Try to imagine the gift of mother nature considering this delivery mode offers substance filtration at a molecular level, at the site of genesis and inside a convenient delivery unit with a most perfect shape: it's spherical and even falls off quite conveniently when shaken! Better yet, the mass and size are such when compared to the surrounding vegetal tissue it makes "Micro-Bursting" a logical choice.

It works like this. Visualize the hairy legs of a spider while an intense/brief heat wave passes above it: that's like heat-shaving without blowing up the rest into smoke, because smaller structures turn incandescent 1st. So, why not do the same with trichomes, plus the added benefit of leaving behind a vegetal substrate which wasn't submitted to ovenization (as in slow/steady methods)! It's only a matter of matching the Heat Charge and Workload and that's what the Hybrid Core makes possible exactly, while keeping fallback compatibility with yellow flames including jetable butane lighters if convenient at all.

VG's Bronze Sherlock handle sure calls for intensive work but its warmth feels comforting to the hand when done; power tools including a large plumber's torch were required (for the soldering), the wooden Classic model is much less demanding in comparison:

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...while the Classic-look Aluminium model repeatedly imposed itself in terms of aroma/taste appreciation - another feature which actually helps to shift a consumption profile from abusive to enlightning.

Although it's not offering an ideal line-of-sight:

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The smaller auxiliary cavity under its bowl won't trap an excessive amount of the delicate fragrance molecules: its associated vortex is smaller.

By the way, please be advised that i do NOT endorse cloning, my proposal implies that eventual owners naturally accept to respect VG's patent even if that means the reconfiguration shall void any warranty. Believe me, the benefit outways such minor trade-off beyond belief!...

Ultimately "Micro-Bursting" will leave a blond vegetal substrate behind:

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This snapshot was captured after a dense/potent/tasty toke despite the obvious absence of a hot-spot, which is a hint i actually managed to target the contact-surface 1st just as intended - otherwise it would have turned brownish with a dark spot.

Here's the trick, starting with the other side of our Hybrid Core:

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Right above its cannabic bowl (not shown) lies a metal layer implemented with brass screen, which is essential as it diffuses heat at a 90° angle. This solution results from previous attempts trying to "defocalize" radiative heat while also offering a self-cleaning finish (too hot to stick)...

Now consider what's located right behind:

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2 layers of Silicon Carbide (SiC) foam contain its associated metal core. The various layout ratios are optimized to make it behave like a solid-state airflow-actuated heat-valve: going from a thermal barrier when idle to a "packetized" heat source meant to be depleted before overheating can occur while airflow sets things in motion.

More details are available in my photo album:


Finally here are the operating directives - my "10 11 commandments" (...):

0) About Bowl loading, Always Fill and Never Pack. Keep in mind the Support Loop located right under a pipe's Cannabic Bowl needs to be "flipped" after removal as this greatly eases reinsertion, simply by screwing it in clockwise. Bowl size/weight is ajusted using that Support Loop.

1) With butane and/or it's related compounds present in the lungs path just make sure there's ALWAYS a clean burning flame to convert butane from such stream into relatively safe superheated Water Vapor and Carbonic Gas, while taking care to inhale with much less force (by lifting the thumb over a pipe's PinHole) to pre-heat the Hybrid Core of a customized Sphere.


2) NEVER let a flame touch anything as this will result in the addition of soot plus other nuisances. All that is required to be captured by the Flame-Catcher to inject a "Heat Charge" (or "Energy Bubble") has to do with the Energy-Carrying Exhaust + some Radiative Heat.


3) NEVER light up or extinguist a butane lighter close to the Flame Catcher. Flint-Wheel Yellow-Flame models generate health-hazard particles in the spark while the Blue Flame ones may fail to consume butane cleanly (extinguish at random and/or spitting out liquid butane droplets not converted by fire)... Briefly put, ALWAYS wait for a flame to stabilize before it's taken close to the Flame-Catcher Aperture.


4) When a primary PinHole is available lift thumb during Pre-Heating. Once the Sphere is sufficiently energized, e.g. between 2~5 seconds depending on a butane lighter, use its stored heat which has just been temporarily injected into the Hybrid Core WITHOUT any butane and/or related stream present near the Flame-Catcher Aperture. This indirect/residual energy-source alone suffices to proceed with the actual Vaporization process.


5) While vaporizing try obstructing the PinHole in brief pulses, in very short bursts at first then increasingly longer to compensate for lost heat from the Hybrid Core as its energy reserve gets depleted. The periods with no PinHole-obstructive thumb in action contribute to oxygenation of the cannabic stream while promoting early detection of vaporization signs, especially hints as aroma/taste. Think of some method vaguely similar to "pumping" a car's breaks in an emergy maneuver situation, the goal being to probe using a sequence of short pulses instead of attempting to get it done in 1 single long pulse. The start/stop transitions appear to cause turbulence which helps with stream movement.

6) A ~125 mg Bowl provides about 5~6 tokes, the left-over can be made useful at a later time to produce relaxing cookies. Don't forget that once in a while even an empty cannabic Bowl can provide some satisfying toke (or two) from a sticky screen alone. Evidently stronger cookies should result from leaving more THC behind from vaping. These days i just vape it dry: used vegetal substrate falls off easily...

7) It's time for cleanup maintenance when the pipe stops working as usual. Pick a pipe stick wetted with 94 % pure grain alcohol to clean wood VG Handles fast. NEVER allow the wood to absorb water as this would promote cracks in the wood. Metal models are to be prefered when condensed noble molecules need to be "reclaimed", though these feel heavier in the hand while wood's near organic-like aspects would prove more "sexy". Alternately, wood is an absorbing material so this makes it less desirable if/when resin reclaims are desired. The back face of metal pipes proves handy for quick torch-cleaning of a screen with no risk of a skin burn. Choose the "Classic" look Aluminium for superior aroma/taste performance.


8) Initially i found the genuine layout with VG's DuckLips MouthPiece was getting uncomfortably hot, the addition of a half-ball stainless steel object down under my cannabic Bowl paved the way to lower-temperature cannabic vapor being sent towards the lungs; as an option it may also help to capture particles in the cannabic vapor using a tiny cotton ball which somewhat adds to the cooling action after getting moist. Half-sphere screens were gradually dropped in more recent versions in favour of an auxiliary PinHole located on the MP base...

9) When attempting to reconfigure DuckLips MouthPieces to reflect the side-wise preference of an operator (e.g. right vs left rotation) try to never forget about twisting it lightly while pulling on it with care as its stem proved very brittle. Somehow an helix motion seems more gentle.

10) The need for eye-contact on a flame tip may require some Flexible Plastic PVC Tubing Extension. A length of 12.5 cm will do and that's a better place where to install the optional cotton ball (strongly recommended), unless a plastic/metal Mating junction is available of course. Last but not least, clear plastic makes it easy to monitor butane consumption based on water vapor condensation creating droplets in the tube after a potential abuse situation, or operating error, etc. The Tubing Extension will opacify if/when abuse continues, ultimately. End the session and re-evaluate operator skills if this occurs, don't forget to shake off liquid water droplets after removing that tube. Consider this a true "Harm Reduction" self-awareness feature.


(2018-Mar-29)

Good day, have fun!! :peace:
 
Quite some long while has past, time to rejuvenate its global context!!

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...time to rejuvenate...

{ idem! }


And welcome to 2021! :toke:

...

Well it's about time i revisit to perform some updates, for example about electronics design i finally concluded a type of "smart" power chips may help to resolve multiple technical challenges all at once, for example starting with removing DC paths for some catastrophic failure modes involving 1 defective transistor:

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Everything inside!! Its next best asset being a spectacular reduction in filter components size/weight equally reflecting as lesser electro-magnetic "pollution" (e.g. easier to manage), thanks to a switched "floating-capacitor" strategy translating into a ~1 sq. cm chip plus support circuitry, possibly inviting "flat magnetic" applications as i theorized in this futuristic dual-band 2.5 dimensions (...) DeLuxe WorkCoil Assembly:

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Which is a great improvement if compared to other scenarios still requiring relatively massive "RF Choking", please appreciate the difference (!):

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PCBoard space reserved for such chip only seems to almost double for Ti's TPA3255 and yet i must predict the ultimate reward for going "FILTERLESS" with Multilevel Class-D (read "truly smart") chips is absolutely obvious, to say the least... Hence enabling audacious objectives as to make it all fit inside the volume of a traditional cigarette pack IMHO, seasoned with fair optimism from the idea that Infineon's MA12070 may as well pioneer the Gallium Nitride era of vaporizers"!

:pop:

In addition, assuming it's OKay to stack WorkCoil Assembly modules together then i foresee a path opening to 3-D IH drivers, though i prefer to call it "2.5-D" as i'd only need 2 layers and these already provide 2-Phase/4-Poles horizontally (per unit) anyway! Consequently, counting 2 chips per module suggests 4 can get packed as a modular assembly delivering an estimated 2 x [ 2 x {2 x 30 Watts per chip} per module] per final assembly = 240 Watts... So even if a lot of this energy goes to waste it remains resonable to expect such objective to prove realistic.

Actually a mere ~100 Joules should normally suffice to generate some potent toke but we may be better just Wait 'n See in hope such progress as described here shall take place soon, preferably this year!... :shrug:

Oh, and... While i think of it, anyone heard of Loto Labs seeking investor$ for their "LLE" series? :coffee2:

...

Meanwhile here's the news relatively to my "Plan-B":

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It happens despite it felt fine-tuned for a couple years i recently came to conclude that residual "Micro-Bursting" energy in the mouth could play a co-factor role in tooth decay, prompting me to explore alternative ways of additional heat-damping. So i chose to go with a water toy except there's no water inside (plus i removed its plunger tubing right after i captured this snapshot).

So far i'm able to foresee a dual "carb" (2-fingers manual-control) scenario where the previous work about split/twin "On-Top Core-PinHole" paths represents a valuable contribution again. Too bad i don't blow glass myself! ... Ah, and why not to include IH-driver compatibility as this should also work for a "Plan-A" (Bi-Energy) plan, eventually!

Go figure. :2cents:

Good day, have fun!! :peace:
 
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Update:


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The "plunger" tubing has been removed, still no liquid water inside. Its cotton ball needs to be large in order to stick in the ridged section, which in turn helps to bring it down to somewhat more manageable cloud-opacity levels... My Full-Metal option ain't no necessity but this sure feels convenient as it practically prevents any risk of skin burns, comparatively to VG's wooden spheres and their metal Flame-Capture (inlet aperture) ring that could get real hot in training, as i recall. Dealing with elevated energy it appears Twin-Flames butane torches paradoxically work best if a large metal mass is available to temporarily shield the external surfaces against over-heating, at the very least it provides a safety delay allowing for instinctive reflexes to take over, although that would assume an abusive situation to begin with, because normally the Hybrid Core is already "charged" with all the energy it takes and more (e.g. plenty to party)!

It's got one simple rule: never risk mechanical damage nor contamination by inserting anything else than a corona tip into the Flame-Capture Funnel, including greasy fingers and so on, naturally. The rest is piece of cake, features of "Micro-Bursting" went blurred by this much pulse-stretching taking place in that huge cavity, but in exchange this made the unit basically brain-dead intuitive IMO. Not to mention besides its cheap glass accessory the VG concept itself was as reliable as a tank, which makes this DiY project quite a fair bargain if any of VaporGenie's Classic (wood) pipes (and more specifically its BOWL) happens to have remained available in some local smoke shop(s) inventory.

YMMV!

Good day, have fun!! :peace:
 
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