Greenleaf + res = ph drift?

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Hey guys, using ro water, megacrop, sweet candy, CMP, and hydroguard in autopot res.

I have a small submersible pump that runs 5 minutes every eight hours.

I do not have any slime/buildup in res but I have to ph down the res once or twice per day and it has a slight smell to it, which basically makes me think I should just top feed but I really wanted a system I could leave for a few days.

All my nutrients are the new versions, any ideas, pointers?

Thanks in advance


This res is my first and was mixed sunday
 
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Heya!
Im noobish so i dont have any real answers for ya, but hetes a couple thoughts...
Is the rez gettin too warm maybe, is there any light getting into the rez? They could either/both be causing the smell maybe?
As far as ph fluctuating, i fots nothing. In my very limited experience, ive run an autopot rez for up to 2 weeks with no rez change, had no issue with smell or ph bouncing around too far.
Im using megacrop v1, bud explosion, calmag, and hydroguard all just dumped straight into the rez.
Dont know if any of this is applicable to ya but hopefully ya can get the issue sorted!
 
Hey guys, using ro water, megacrop, sweet candy, CMP, and hydroguard in autopot res.

I have a small submersible pump that runs 5 minutes every eight hours.

I do not have any slime/buildup in res but I have to ph down the res once or twice per day and it has a slight smell to it, which basically makes me think I should just top feed but I really wanted a system I could leave for a few days.

All my nutrients are the new versions, any ideas, pointers?

Thanks in advance


This res is my first and was mixed sunday

Hydroguard contains beneficial bacteria, which means that it does allow bacteria to grow.
Maybe you also have some bad bacteria fighting it out with the good ones.
Clorox might be able to get rid of those, but it will also kill the good ones.
But if the good ones aren't doing their job, they too can go.

I use a maintenance dose of 1 drop per gallon per day straight clorox, and never have any problems.
But when pH starts changing dramatically, which could mean bad bacteria, I double the dose for a few days.
 
In regards to ph drift, in which my drifts too from 5.8 in to 6.2 after several days, I stopped chasing ph drift with ph down. Furthermore, if I add say more gallons(5-7), then I will have less drift than than just filling the resevoir a few gallons, which can be explained scientifically. From what I have read, if it is drifting just a 3 or 4 tenths it is not a problem. But maybe others have had contrary experinces.
 
REALfarmacy.com
Why Does Reservoir pH Drift Up?

Growing hydroponically has many benefits including increased yield, less space, no soil, etc. But there is one significant disadvantage: you have to know water chemistry. Learn how!




Water chemistry involves many factors. Two very important factors are totally dissolved solids (TDS) and pH. People sometimes express TDS as electrical conductivity (EC), because electrical conductivity is the physical measurement your device takes, and TDS can be inferred from this measurement because all dissolved salts contribute to the electrical conductivity of water.




While TDS, or EC, is simple enough because it measures the amount of things you add to water, plus what is already present in the water (salt, magnesium, calcium, etc.), pH is more complicated. Here, we will attempt to explain the very misunderstood and pesky problem of pH in tap water slowly increasing over time.



Everyone knows that things are more soluble in hot water, like salt or sugar for example. But did you know the trend is the opposite for gases?



This means the gases are more soluble in cold water than in hot water. There are only two soluble gases that are important to a grower: oxygen and carbon dioxide. Roots need some dissolved oxygen to stay alive, which means you shouldn’t let the water get too hot.




How does dissolved carbon dioxide affect your reservoir?



After CO2 dissolves in water, it forms carbonic acid. This reaction is reversible, meaning CO2 basically goes in and out of water as it pleases. In this case, the temperature of the water is the main influencing factor we need to consider.



CO2 dissolves in tap water, in often copious amounts, due to bubbling and frothing in the plumbing. Normally, this tap water comes out cold, usually at around 50 F. As it slowly warms, carbonic acid turns into carbon dioxide which evaporates along with other gases. Less acid means the pH goes up. It is often a good idea to let tap water sit for some time to let chlorine dissipate, but not many people realize how much that can also change their pH.



If tap water’s pH started out at around 7 out of the faucet, once it has time to fully equilibrate with its surroundings, it may begin to show its true colors with a pH of around 8. It may be useful to do your own experiment to figure out how much the pH changes after your water adjusts to room temperature. Take a pH measurement right when it comes out, and then again after an hour or more. Be sure to leave the container open to the air as it sits.



The pH of your nutrient solution will also drift mildly once it comes in contact with your plants. As the roots take up nutrients, they shift the pH up and down, and you might also have some effects due to carbon dioxide exchange with the plants and the air.



As long as the pH doesn’t ever get below 5.5 or above 6.8, you should be alright.



Do not chase after the ideal pH everyday by constantly adding “pH Up” or “pH Down”. This will probably cause excess TDS, which can prevent roots from absorbing anything at all.



It is important to always remember that quickly adjusting pH can kill your plants.



Ariana Marisol is a contributing staff writer for REALfarmacy.com. She is an avid nature enthusiast, gardener, photographer, writer, hiker, dreamer, and lover of all things sustainable, wild, and free. Ariana strives to bring people closer to their true source, Mother Nature. She graduated The Evergreen State College with an undergraduate degree focusing on Sustainable Design and Environmental Science.



Photo Credit:

Will Allen/flickr

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Others using reservoirs may comment better, but it does not seem prudent add Sweet Candy to a reservoir , with this a product that delivers a broad spectrum of high-grade nutrients ("several different types of carbo sources, 20 amino acids, 70+ vitamins and minerals..."). There is probably a good reason Sweet Candy's contents are not included in the base MegaCrop formulation - fungi and bacteria will grow, the sugars will naturally ferment, etc. You want this to happen in your medium/soil, not the reservoir.

Consider normal, top-feeding to dose your plants with Sweet Candy and other 'organics.'
 
Thank for all the responses, yall are great!

As far as temps go I have it located outside the room and the res temp is a constant 74 degrees.

I had a feeling it was the sweet candy as generally I have read sugars/carbs+res is bad but after reading a few journals where some had used it with autopots I thought Id try it

Tonight I will make a fresh batch without the sweet candy :( and see how it goes

Maybe every day or two I can manually dose the autopot tray directly but was hoping for more "automation". All the autopot guys have said once the res is on top feeding is a no go due to some sort of salt buildup in the upper layers that may burn the plant
 
If I missed that you are using AutoPots, just manually add the proper Sweet Candy dosage to each pot's reservoir. For ex., if plants are consuming 1 L/day, manually add your normal per L dose to each plant's reservoir once daily..
 
Yup I think this is the way. Id hate to not use it as Ive read good things, and need it for the Mg if nothing else as Im getting purple on the top of my petioles on this NLxBB
 
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