I know, I know.
Mz. W, wtf are you doing posting questions in the new growers forum?!?
Because I've got a noob question you see! lol
I've always wondered...can you pH more water than you need at a given time?
I.E - If I've got a 2.5 gallon jug of distilled water that I don't plan on ever adding nutrients to, can i adjust the whole she-bang to 6.5 and have it stay 6.5 and with no adverse effects? Or is it going to like....evaporate off the water and the pH will creep back up? lol
The same can be asked of nutes - can you add (chem) nutes to your water, pH it and then not use it right away?
Thaaaaaaaaaanks Yoooou Guuuyyyyyyyyyys
:KISS::KISS:
lol
Mz. W, wtf are you doing posting questions in the new growers forum?!?
Because I've got a noob question you see! lol
I've always wondered...can you pH more water than you need at a given time?
I.E - If I've got a 2.5 gallon jug of distilled water that I don't plan on ever adding nutrients to, can i adjust the whole she-bang to 6.5 and have it stay 6.5 and with no adverse effects? Or is it going to like....evaporate off the water and the pH will creep back up? lol
The same can be asked of nutes - can you add (chem) nutes to your water, pH it and then not use it right away?
Thaaaaaaaaaanks Yoooou Guuuyyyyyyyyyys
:KISS::KISS:
lol
..looks like I need to start giving pop-quizzes! :no: LMAO!... we've talked about RO/DI water, and buffering, etc., haven't we? If not (I lose track-- big surprise!), pH'ing RO/DI beforehand for longer term use is a pointless exercise... there are no buffering minerals in there, it's at or near 0 ppms of any dissolved solids, namely CaCO3- calcium carbonate (tap water usually will have a little MgCO3 too),...It's the carbonates that are actually doing the buffering --stabilizing- of the pH; the less there is of them in the water, the more wildly pH will swing from even small inputs.... the term used for this is hardness of the water, which refers to how much dissolved solids are in there...the less stuff in there, the "softer" it is, and visa versa...:no: -(Cripes, there's a 5 page lecture series that could be given about the amazing, complex properties of water!) ...Point is, it won't remain stable, and the less adjusting stuff you put in, the better,....and I've mentioned in the past that using straight RO/DI water in soil is not a good thing at all, it should be blended with (dechlorinated) tap to give it some hardness and thus buffering capacity,... Sooo, no short cut here my friend, IMO,.... If you even need to adjust it at all for simple watering!... your soil pH is the determining factor on that, and we've been grinding over that some already, ay? :roflcry: ...now, how much tap to blend in depends on the hardness, which can be measured in ppm's or EC; ppm's is in fact, a converted measurement of EC,...yeah, another damn meter to get!
Thrilled, I know!... (HM makes a nice basic TDS (total dissolved solids) meter for about $20)... I get my blend to about 175 ppm's before watering, or fert'ing-- (check pH again a few minutes after mixing in nutes, and then adjust if needed),...