Grow Mediums Popping my grow cherry

It's a revolt 250w hps/mh
Input:ac 100-268v 50/60 hz
Pf>.99 thd<10% cf<1.7

It's the 250w revolt kit from Gotham hydroponics. I'm running an identical kit in the same room, matter of fact they came in the same package even. The second kit didnt have the set of bulbs that it should, but the first ballast did, so the lights did come with the kit, except the mh I used from lowes. Tomorrow I'm going to use my mh bulb that I know is good and check to see if my second ballast is bunk, I have nothing to loose at this point it seems. So far I've only tried running my hps and the lowes bulbs in the second ballast, with no luck. If a pic would help there's one in one of my earlier posts. It really bugs me there's no in/off switch on these ballasts, it feels like a sacrilege to just unplug it from the wall. If u require any more information please let me know, tomorrow Ill sit down and systematically test components since I have two identical complete light sets. Thanks for ur time guys, I've been a member to several boards but none compare to the help and feedback I get here!
 
It clearly says its mh/hps electronic ballast but no damn switch, no buttons, nothing.
 
hmmm... would it be too much to ask you to take pics of all 4 sides of the ballast? if your ballast is striking or at least trying to strike then I'd say its the bulb. try that swap troubleshooting to confirm. you may have just fried the Lowes bulb as its most likely not compatible ...
 
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After swapping my components around I'm led to believe its the socket fixture. I got number 2 ballast working when I swapped the reflector. Whew, what a relief. Tonight I'm going to germ another set of seeds. These things are to leggy and weak. Since my cfl broke ill be using my mh light for the light source. I don't think my cfl was strong enough in the first place, hence the leggy weak bastards.
 
Hmm... I don't see anything in the pics that look like a switch on the ballast itself (I know you don't either... Just like to see what I'm helping troubleshoot :D:) is it possible there is something on the power supply there... on the 3rd to last picture or last picture there...
 
I c what u see, sorry for the terrible pics guys my camera sucks. That's an insignia. I found out that the ballast switches automatically, as long as u unplug the ballast from the WALL for 5 minutes or so. I haven't heard back from the company since I sent them an email about my missing set of bulbs, so I bit the bullet and ordered another reflector and a set of bulbs.
 
One question, what's the difference between this 17 dollar hardware metal halide light and these crazy expensive horticulture lamps? I mean, so long as the bulb is in the 4200K range were all good right?
 
Sorry to leave you hangin' there for a minute man... The difference is LUMENS. The spectrum is very minor compared to lumens are far as importance... You want the MOST lumens you can get out of your lighting system. The more lumens, the better veg you will get and that always leads to a better bloom and harvest. So when you search for a compatable light that can operate on your ballast you want to look for the most lumens you can get. Brightness has nothing to do with it. it's all about the Lumens!

When I ran my 400W HPS lights my bulbs ran 50,000 lumens a piece. then I had T5HO 4 footers on the walls for supplemental lighting. When using T5s I would recommend nothing less than 5,000 Lumens per bulb. Under that is pointless in my book. With HPS. All bulbs vary... And not all the expensive bulbs are the best either. Look at reviews when buying. Off the site you're getting them from and also here in our review section there may be some personal reviews. So to answer your question... if you look at the Lumens output on the expensive bulbs and compare them with the less expensive bulbs... chances are it's because the more expensive bulb puts out way more lumens...
 
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