The Myth of Drainage Material in Containers

pop22

Frankensteins Lab Leader
Cultivators Club
Joined
Dec 15, 2013
Messages
19,640
Reputation
1,875
Reaction score
60,093
Points
0
A discussion of drainage materials in the bottom of autopots, and pots in general, led me to hunt this info as my thoughts on this told me that adding gravel, etc was NOT a good idea. My reasoning proves to be basically right.

Linda Chalker-Scott, Ph.D., Extension Horticulturist and Associate Professor, Puyallup Research and Extension Center, Washington State University has made public, this and other information on gardening myths that you can find here: http://puyallup.wsu.edu/lcs/

Everyone should go take a look! there is some eye opening information there that will make you rethink many of your gardening practices!

The Myth

"Add a layer of gravel or other coarse material in the bottom of containers to improve drainage"
This is just one of those myths that refuses to die, regardless of solid scientific evidence to the contrary! Nearly every book or web site on container gardening recommends placing coarse material at the bottom of containers for drainage. The materials most often recommended for this practice are sand, gravel pebbles, and pot shards. Other ‘benefits’ often mentioned include preventing creatures from entering through the drain holes, and stabilizing the container.
Some of these recommendations are quite specific and scientific sounding. Consider this advice from a 1960’s book on container plants: “Adequate drainage is secured by covering the hole in the bottom of the pot with a piece of broken flowerpot, concave side down; this in turn is covered with a layer (1/2" to 1"
deep) of flowerpot chips. On top of this, a 1/4" to 3/8" layer of coarse organic material, such as flaky leaf mold, is placed.” The advice seems to make perfect
sense, and it’s presented so precisely. After all, we know that plants need good drainage so their roots receive adequate oxygen, and we also know that water
passes through coarsely textured material faster than it does fine material. So what’s not to like?

The Reality

Nearly 100 years ago, soil scientists demonstrated that water does not move easily from layers of finer textured materials to layers of more coarse textured. Since then, similar studies have produced the same results. Additionally, one study found that more moisture was retained in the soil underlain by gravel than that underlain by sand. Therefore, the coarser the underlying material, the more difficult it is for water to move across the interface. Imagine what
happens in a container lined with pot shards!

Some of my previous columns have mentioned soil interfaces and their inhibition of water movement. We can see the same phenomenon occurring here: gravitational water will not move from a finely soil texture into a coarser material until the finer soil is saturated. Since the stated goal for using coarse
material in the bottoms of containers is to "keep soil from getting water logged,” it is ironic that adding this material will induce the very state it is intended to prevent.
 
Aye, that's a good myth to start with, here as #7........As the fearless Leader you've got your job set out with them myths......haha.....!

http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2013/apr/28/nine-gardening-myths-debunked

Nine gardening myths debunked
Burying a cow's horn filled with manure is one thing, but even some of the better known horticultural tips don't stand up to scientific scrutiny

Garden-myths-branches-008.jpg

It is not true that water droplets on plants focus solar rays and burn foliage. Photograph: Kati Molin/Alamy


David Derbyshire

Sunday 28 April 2013 00.05 BST
http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2013/apr/28/nine-gardening-myths-debunked#comments
Is there a hobby anywhere that's more burdened with folklore and superstition than gardening? On any allotment you'll soon find someone convinced that potatoes must be planted on Good Friday, that garlic keeps aphids away, or that human hair wards off eelworm.

The extreme version of this is biodynamics, the "holistic" approach to plants favoured by Prince Charles, which combines organic gardening with new-age magic. Biodynamic gardeners sow according to the moon and the zodiac. They spray homeopathic remedies, some of which must be prepared in a sheep's skull or a deer's bladder. And they bury cow's horns filled with manure and quartz to focus "vital forces".

Biodynamic gardening is dismissed by the Royal Horticultural Society, and likened to witchcraft by leading plant scientists. Yet it still has its adherents. Former Formula 1 champion Jody Scheckter owns one of more than 120 biodynamic farms in the UK. The patron of the Biodynamic Association is Patrick Holden, the former director of the Soil Association. And the Prince of Wales, in his 2010 book Harmony, described moon planting as part of "a profound knowledge neglected by modern techniques".

Of course, some of the old folklore is sound. Techniques of rotating vegetable crops and creating compost survived because they work. But other nuggets passed down the generations are nonsense and, in a culture where gardening folklore is venerated, quackery and snake oil thrive.

There are signs of a change. In the US four horticultural scientists have got together to produce the blog Garden Professors, which exposes pseudo-science.

Dr Linda Chalker-Scott, of Washington State University and co-author of the blog, is passionate about exploding myths.

"As with many mythological practices, it can cause harm if the product is harvested or made in an unsustainable manner, if it causes environmental damage or it takes advantage of people's lack of knowledge and [affects] them financially," she says.

So what are the common myths that have been debunked by scientific research?

MYTH 1 Compost tea suppresses disease
If you believe the marketing, compost tea is the miracle additive of the 21st century. It is made by steeping compost in water mixed with sugar in brewing kits costing £30. The mixture is aerated to encourage organisms to grow before being sprayed on to plants. According to supporters, it increases plant growth, provides nutrients, adds beneficial organisms and suppresses disease. It is big in the US and is growing in popularity in the UK, fuelled by anecdotal evidence from gardeners.

Yet Dr Chalker-Scott remains unconvinced by the "fuzzy science" of compost tea. Six years ago her review of scientific literature found just seven studies on aerated compost tea. One suggested that bubbling air through the liquid reduced its efficacy, another that it was not effective in reducing apple scab and in some cases made scab worse. One suggested that it controlled fungi in a Petri dish, while three greenhouse tests had mixed results. Her own research on Washington State University cherry trees found that compost tea was no better than water.

Since then, a study led by Dr Bryant Scharenbroch at the Morton Arboretum Soil Science laboratory in Lisle, Illinois, and published in Arboriculture and Urban Forestry, suggested that compost tea was inferior to fertiliser at enhancing microbe activity in the soil.

Dr Jeff Gillman, a Garden Professors blogger and horticultural scientist at the University of Minnesota, likens it to a "magical elixir". "There is limited data showing it can be useful, but the bulk of data shows it is not beneficial," he says. "What is more concerning is that some of the data shows these buckets can provide a breeding ground for E coli bacteria and disease."

MYTH 2 Lighten clay by adding sand
Clay soil can be a gardening nightmare. It turns rock-hard when dry, drains badly, takes an age to warm up in spring and is tough to cultivate. However, it holds its nutrients better than most types of soil and, if drainage can be improved, it produces bountiful plants.

Soil is a mix of minerals, organic matter, water and air. The balance of those ingredients – and particularly the ratio of sand, silt and clay – affects quality dramatically.

Gardeners coping with particularly heavy clay soil are sometimes tempted to lighten it with sand. According to plant scientists, that will often make it worse. Leigh Hunt of the RHS says: "You need almost as much sand as you have clay. So people often do it on a limited scale – they dig a small area of half a square metre and incorporate sand. And that's where the problems start."

Sand particles are bigger than clay particles. As a consequence, clay is relatively impervious, while sand soils can absorb plenty of water.

Digging a hole and adding sand can create a sump that draws in water, drowning plants.

Converting a garden is a mammoth task. The RHS estimates that you would need 250kg of sand or grit for every square metre of clay soil.

"The best thing to do in this situation is to make a raised bed and then add the sand so the water has somewhere to go," says Hunt.

MYTH 3 Young trees should be staked
Tough love doesn't just apply to children – it also works for trees. While it may be tempting to secure a sapling to protect it from the wind, stakes can weaken plants. Leigh Hunt, an adviser at the Royal Horticultural Society, recommends that saplings be staked for the first year to 18 months. "After that you want to remove the stake because the tree can become reliant on it and you get a tree that is not as strong and stable," he says.

Botanists showed in the 1950s that trees allowed to sway with the wind grew thicker lower trunks than those staked. They also tend to have thicker branches, but don't grow as tall. In horticultural circles, the response of trees and plants to wind is called thigmomorphogenesis. The buffeting from winds releases ethylene gas, a growth mediator that triggers the formation of wood-strengthening lignin.

The RHS advises placing stakes at a 45-degree angle. They should be positioned so the prevailing wind blows the tree away from the support.

MYTH 4 Sun through water burns leaves
There are many good reasons to avoid watering plants in the sun. But sunburn is not one of them.

The belief that water droplets on plants focus solar rays and burn foliage has persisted for generations. However, in 2010 Dr Gábor Horváth and colleagues at the Eötvös University in Budapest found that water droplets were too close to leaves to cause burning before they evaporated. The only risk was on hairy plants such as ferns, which kept the droplets far enough away to act as lenses, they reported in New Phytologist.

Guy Barter said: "In 20 years of professional gardening, I've only seen it once and that was on French beans that we had watered from overhead. In the summer outdoors, it is best to water in the afternoon and evening to reduce the amount of evaporation. If you use a sprinkler system with a timer, it's best to do it before dawn because there tends to be less wind and it is cooler."

MYTH 5 Tree wounds need dressing
Countless generations of gardeners have painted tar or paint on wounds after lopping off branches. It was believed that, without protection, trees would be vulnerable to pests and disease. That myth was conclusively debunked in the 1970s and 80s by Dr Alex Shigo of the US Forest Service. Shigo was a passionate tree specialist whose theory of compartmentalisation of tree decay changed the way trees are pruned. He showed that, when trees are injured, they respond with chemical and physical changes, forming barriers that stop or slow the spread of disease and decay to the rest of the plant.

In 1983 in the Journal of Arboriculture, Shigo published results of 13 years ofresearch on wound dressings. Applying tar does nothing to aid this process but can provide a home and protective layer for pests and fungi, he showed. It also inhibits the process of compartmentalisation.

MYTH 6 Biodynamic is best
The biodynamic movement was founded by Austrian teacher and occultist Rudolf Steiner in 1924. His system uses astrology to give days characteristics based on the classical elements of earth, water, air and fire. Carrots should be planted on an earth day, for instance, and apples on a fire day. There are complex preparations to spray on soil and crops, including homeopathic liquids based on healing herbs. The burial of a horn full of quartz or dung is said to harvest "cosmic forces". Supporters talk about energy levels, cosmic forces and vibrations. Alongside the magic is a strong organic principle. But does it work?

Teasing out the effects of organic farming from the mystical elements has been difficult. A Slovenian PhD student, Matjaz Turinek, for instance, concluded in 2011 that biodynamic farms had higher-quality soil than conventional ones. However, critics say that owes more to organic practices than to any spreading of potions.

A 21-year-long study led by Dr Paul Mader at the Research Institute of Organic Agriculture in Switzerland, published in Science in 2002, found that the soil quality in biodynamic fields was better than in conventional or organic fields but yields were lower.

The Royal Horticultural Society's science committee cannot find a scientific basis for planting by the moon. The Rothampstead Research Centre repeated the cow's horn recipe; after six months, it was still just unfermented silica and manure.

Professor Tony Trewavas, a plant scientist at the Institute of Cell and Molecular Biology, University of Edinburgh, said: "Vital forces don't exist, nor does the moon exert some special influence on seedling growth.

"Biodynamic farming does emphasise soil maintenance but any good conventional farmer does the same, without the rigmarole of vital forces."

MYTH 7 Gravel helps containers to drain
It is standard practice when filling a container to place stones or pieces of pot at the bottom "for drainage". But the evidence suggests that not only is it a waste of time, but it also restricts plant growth and results in roots sitting in water. Gilman says: "You have less space and the drainage is not as good, because water sits above the gravel or the stones."

Soil holds moisture better than gravel does. Water will cling to the fine particles in soil until it is completely saturated. Only then does it drain away. As long as there is a hole in the bottom of the container, water will find its way out without the need for stones. The only benefit to putting a piece of crockery in a container is to cover the hole to stop the compost escaping.

MYTH 8 Add bone meal and compost when planting trees
Gardening books often recommend adding bone meal to soil before planting a tree or shrub. The Garden Professor bloggers say that is a waste of time. Although bone meal contains calcium and phosphorus, which are needed for plant growth, the minerals are rarely in short supply in gardens or allotments.

Chalker-Scott says: "It does not stimulate plant growth. It is only a mineral, not a plant growth regulator."

A high concentration of phosphorus may do harm by inhibiting beneficial mycorrhizal fungi, she adds. These fungi occur naturally in the soil and create a secondary root system, drawing water and nutrients from the soil. If the fungi don't appear, trees and shrubs compensate by growing extra roots, at a cost to the rest of the plant.

Compost can also be harmful in holes dug for new trees.

Guy Barter, chief horticultural adviser at the RHS, says: "The compost rots and the tree settles down too far in the soil and as a result root and stem rot can set in. It's best to plant trees in plain old soil."

MYTH 9 Natural is safer
Pesticides may be against the spirit of organic gardening, but garden centre shelves are full of organic treatments for insects, slugs and fungi. Although they are labelled "natural", that doesn't make them friendly to the environment. Dr Gillman believes that gardeners all too often swallow the myth that organic is safe. Some natural home-made organic pesticides contain 20% vinegar, which is effective at killing the tops of plants, but not their roots, he said. It is also toxic for frogs and toads.

"The one I get upset about is Bordeaux mix, which is an organic treatment for potato blight and contains copper," he said. "We talk about how organic sprays break down in the soil, but copper is copper. It builds up and it can be harmful."

Another common organic bug killer is pyrethrum, made from an extract of chrysanthemumcorrect. Natural it may be; discriminating it is not. It will kill beneficial ladybirds and bumblebees as easily as it kills asparagus beetle.

"The idea behind organic gardening is good but, when you talk about pesticides, just because something is organic that does not mean it is safe. Every pesticide must be examined individually," says Gillman.
 
Corgy, your going to get me booted off AFN......... the mere thought of all the "New Age" bullshit makes me rage! Hell, it makes me wonder how the human race survives...... I'd like to give every newage reject a crystal colonic flush.......... I'm sure ingesting about a pound of Quartz crystals would do it...... GRRRRRRRRRR!

I think the biodynamic gardening would be much more successful if we buried the gardeners in the garden, at least they'd get a big dose of shit!
 
Corgy, your going to get me booted off AFN......... the mere thought of all the "New Age" bullshit makes me rage! Hell, it makes me wonder how the human race survives...... I'd like to give every newage reject a crystal colonic flush.......... I'm sure ingesting about a pound of Quartz crystals would do it...... GRRRRRRRRRR!

I think the biodynamic gardening would be much more successful if we buried the gardeners in the garden, at least they'd get a big dose of shit!


They don't need another dose of shit. They're already full of it.
 
:crying::crying::crying: Love it guys , There is some much organic bull shit around , Go to the garden center and buy your organic soil soil and nutrients and Bobs ya uncle . Easy is in't . As pop said - Bull shit -
 
Yeah but a layer of coarse(4-8mm) stuff on the bottom helps you to not flush your coco down the drain.
 
Putting rocks in the bottom of pot used to be the go to solution back in the day, Shit I even did it until several years ago until going to a state Ag. garden convention. I have used perlite in the past to amend potted soil sparingly, now I used the shit out of it. sometime a 50/50 ratio depending on plant. Fast draining soil is a potted plants friend. I do add about 1/2 at the bottom of pots to help with soil loss. a link to
Physical properties of container media
http://oregonstate.edu/dept/nursery.../physical_properties/physical_properties.html
Excerpt from another page
There is, in every pot, what is called a "perched water table" (PWT). This is water that occupies a layer of soil that is always saturated and will not drain at the bottom of the pot. It can evaporate or be used by the plant, but physical forces will not allow it to drain. It is there because the capillary pull of the soil at some point will equal the GFP; therefore, the water does not drain, it is "perched".

If we fill five cylinders of varying heights and diameters with the same soil mix and provide each cylinder with a drainage hole, the PWT will be exactly the same height in each container. This is the area of the pot where roots seldom penetrate & where root problems begin due to a lack of aeration. From this we can draw the conclusion that tall growing containers are a superior choice over squat containers when using the same soil mix. The reason: the level of the PWT will be the same in each container, with the taller container providing more usable, air holding soil above the PWT. Physiology dictates that plants must be able to take in air at the roots in order to complete transpiration and photosynthesis. A given volume of large soil particles have less overall surface area in comparison to the same volume of small particles and therefore less overall adhesive attraction to water. So, in soils with large particles, GFP more readily overcomes capillary attraction. They drain better. We all know this, but the reason, often unclear, is that the PWT is lower in coarse soils than in fine soils. The key to good drainage is size and uniformity of soil particles. Large particles mixed with small particles will not improve drainage because the smaller particles fit between the large, increasing surface area which increases the capillary attraction and thus the water holding potential. Water and air cannot occupy the same space at the same time. Contrary to what some hold to be true, sand does not improve drainage. Pumice (aka lava rock), or one of the hi-fired clay products like Turface are good additives which help promote drainage and porosity because of their irregular shape.
 
Excellent information! Yes, drainage needs to be incorporated into your soil, not be an after thought in the bottom of the pot!
 
Putting rocks in the bottom of pot used to be the go to solution back in the day, Shit I even did it until several years ago until going to a state Ag. garden convention. I have used perlite in the past to amend potted soil sparingly, now I used the shit out of it. sometime a 50/50 ratio depending on plant. Fast draining soil is a potted plants friend. I do add about 1/2 at the bottom of pots to help with soil loss. a link to
Physical properties of container media
http://oregonstate.edu/dept/nursery.../physical_properties/physical_properties.html
Excerpt from another page
There is, in every pot, what is called a "perched water table" (PWT). This is water that occupies a layer of soil that is always saturated and will not drain at the bottom of the pot. It can evaporate or be used by the plant, but physical forces will not allow it to drain. It is there because the capillary pull of the soil at some point will equal the GFP; therefore, the water does not drain, it is "perched".

If we fill five cylinders of varying heights and diameters with the same soil mix and provide each cylinder with a drainage hole, the PWT will be exactly the same height in each container. This is the area of the pot where roots seldom penetrate & where root problems begin due to a lack of aeration. From this we can draw the conclusion that tall growing containers are a superior choice over squat containers when using the same soil mix. The reason: the level of the PWT will be the same in each container, with the taller container providing more usable, air holding soil above the PWT. Physiology dictates that plants must be able to take in air at the roots in order to complete transpiration and photosynthesis. A given volume of large soil particles have less overall surface area in comparison to the same volume of small particles and therefore less overall adhesive attraction to water. So, in soils with large particles, GFP more readily overcomes capillary attraction. They drain better. We all know this, but the reason, often unclear, is that the PWT is lower in coarse soils than in fine soils. The key to good drainage is size and uniformity of soil particles. Large particles mixed with small particles will not improve drainage because the smaller particles fit between the large, increasing surface area which increases the capillary attraction and thus the water holding potential. Water and air cannot occupy the same space at the same time. Contrary to what some hold to be true, sand does not improve drainage. Pumice (aka lava rock), or one of the hi-fired clay products like Turface are good additives which help promote drainage and porosity because of their irregular shape.
Perfect explanation why I use high pots. I just got some new 5L pots (5 quarts) and they are 25cm (9.8inches) high. Perfect for growing autos in coco.
 
Corgy, your going to get me booted off AFN......... the mere thought of all the "New Age" bullshit makes me rage! Hell, it makes me wonder how the human race survives...... I'd like to give every newage reject a crystal colonic flush.......... I'm sure ingesting about a pound of Quartz crystals would do it...... GRRRRRRRRRR!

I think the biodynamic gardening would be much more successful if we buried the gardeners in the garden, at least they'd get a big dose of shit!
Batshit, horseshit and bullshit are great fertilizers... GUESS NEW AGE DOES WORK.
 
Back
Top