Transition Issue

ahhh, my bad SG, I forgot to ask about RH and how direct the air movement is,... the wrong combination high T, low RH, light intensity and strong air movement can trigger these symptoms. How high up is the light? There's ambient air temp, but then there's a more close proximity related heat/intensity stress that happens as well,.. but as I look, I see even well lower down leaves are getting teeth curls too,...Temps are fine; pH is good; EC is kinda low (less than 500ppm USA equivalent, 640ppm EU?) for plants this large at this stage, but I can't link this to a nutritional issue ( I could be wrong too, but nothing rings any bells),... No, it's not a strain trait per se, but different strains have different tolerances and preferences for a wide variety of grow factors,... let's see what the info I asked for can tell,...
Hi waira.
I found out in these days that my AUs are showing some def.
This also happens almost every time my plants pass into flower stage.
I've always thought it was a P def, but maybe this could be caused by wrong ambient conditions, right?
For this reason i made a video to show u that my set up is supposed to be fine to me.
Whay do u think?
 
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perhaps,.. if the low RH is causing them to close up the stomata to reduce water loss, it badly slows the flow of nutrients up from the roots,... no nutes coming id from down there forces the plant to translocate needs nutes like P from leaves instead, causing the mild defc. symptoms,...
 
Also, when you transition to flowering nutes, run 1/2 grow and 1/2 bloom for a week or so, then go full on bloom nutes. Eliminate the "just because" flushing before transitioning to bloom. Only flush if you have a confirmed soil condition causing you problems. Especially as light as you are feeding, I doubt that you have much salt buildup. Also, with this light of feeding, after the "just because" flush there would be very low amounts of nutrients left in the medium, hence the yellowing during transition. Get an EC/PPM meter, you should be feeding at around 800 or so ppm.
 
Also, when you transition to flowering nutes, run 1/2 grow and 1/2 bloom for a week or so, then go full on bloom nutes. Eliminate the "just because" flushing before transitioning to bloom. Only flush if you have a confirmed soil condition causing you problems. Especially as light as you are feeding, I doubt that you have much salt buildup. Also, with this light of feeding, after the "just because" flush there would be very low amounts of nutrients left in the medium, hence the yellowing during transition. Get an EC/PPM meter, you should be feeding at around 800 or so ppm.
U know...this is what I suspected too.
Since i started flushing in transition phase most of my plants had this discoloration issue!
I already have an EC meter but i have to admit that I didn't use it a lot!
What I've noticed too is that EC schedules can be really different from one strain to another.
For example now I'm feeding my AUs at 1.8 in 2/3 week of bloom, which is what i'm doing with my ANQs at the 6th week of bloom.
I think that managing EC could be a solution to many of my problems, maybe even more than ph control.
 
Sir Green, fill out this form please, and we can figure this out faster,...https://www.autoflower.org/threads/...ill-out-first-with-the-data-that-matta.45991/
... this isn't an N issue, I see pretty severe heat/light stress-- curled, up pointing "teeth", pale color,.. if it's happening with every grow, every strain, it an environmental issue most likely, which can lead directly to defc. issues as well,...
Sorry if I bother bro.
But i find u r very well informed, so this could be a teal trouble for u in the next times.
I'm running 7 AGOGs in another tent and they're at day 31/32 now.
I'm going 20/4 at the mom...which is wat I've always done with autos so far.
Considering that i'm suspecting that they're suffering a little, could I change the schedule to 18/6?
Just to let them rest a little more?
Thank u in advance
 
:jointman: no bother at all SG'! These girls look great, just a little edge curl happening, but I think the color is fine (are these under a COB or MH?), always a bit hard to say with the way lights, cameras and computers change it,... what has you concerned? Dropping the light hours should be no problem, more likely increasing them would be potentially problematic,... there's all manner of opinion about this, but many folks see little difference between 18/6 and 20/4 in terms of yield and quality,... there's even more barking about 24/0, the need or even benefit of any dark period with auto's,.. And I can't make a general call on this from what I've seen here! some run 24/0 and spank their grows time after time,.. others don't find it working well for them... I think it has a lot to do with the strain, nute's and the environmental control/optimal conditions,... true, auto's don't seem to NEED dark periods, but this biologist thinks there's something inherently beneficial to having some dark time... the plants normal physiology and metabolism is evolved around having some dark hours, when other processes (excluding respiration, which goes on continuously) going on during this time are not competing with, or getting interfered by the entire photosynthetic machinery and peripheral processes,...

EC/TDS meters are great tools! Analyzing your water hardness and pH is key starting info for any grow,.. it will determine what, if anything needs to be done with your water.. it also gives you your base line ppms/EC before you add nutes,... TDS/ppm is in fact an extrapolation of EC; EC is universal too, but the conversion from EC to TDS/ppm's is not, depending on where you live and the type/make of TDS meter... I believe 1.0EC =500ppm (US)= 640 (EU) = 700 (Aussie)..... For sure, you know already that different strains, sometimes even pheno's, will have different nute tolerances and demands... and there is no compromise on pH management, it's key to keeping nutrients available regardless of EC! :pass: Cheers mate...
 
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