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Well. Things are going downhill fast
- Thread starter Wallflower82
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- fine-ass '22 harvest!
:smoking: mate everything I said on the 13th still applies...
-- the cold spells retard nutrient uptake and transport, especially P and micronutes, so the plant scavenges off the leaves for what mobile nutes (most micro's aren't mobile within the plant) are stored... this will magnify any other pH or simple lack-of defc.'s may be in play already... as mentioned that BE is very K heavy, not the best ratio for early bloom, more P is needed
--- the roots may have been damaged, which will also magnify any nute problems, slow uptake, etc,....the dry-outs, overwatering, cold, all will punish roots, rot them after getting damaged,.. shocks the plant and then it stalls,...
--- as such, the soil may have sufficient nutes present, but just aren't getting taken up well for the above reasons,... I see mulitple defc.'s happening, which hints that some or all of what I've said is happening...
-- pH may be a mitigating factor as well, guess we'll see soon I hope! Once that's figured, next steps will be clearer,.. Did you get a new bloom nute with more P than K? A lot of what i see is typical P defc. symptoms, yellowing, wasting, big necrotic patches,.. color fade and spotting at top is probably a minor micronute defc. kicking in,... Getting the temps up is also key, or nothing else you do will help much, that's a kinpin here next to pH determination,...
-- the cold spells retard nutrient uptake and transport, especially P and micronutes, so the plant scavenges off the leaves for what mobile nutes (most micro's aren't mobile within the plant) are stored... this will magnify any other pH or simple lack-of defc.'s may be in play already... as mentioned that BE is very K heavy, not the best ratio for early bloom, more P is needed
--- the roots may have been damaged, which will also magnify any nute problems, slow uptake, etc,....the dry-outs, overwatering, cold, all will punish roots, rot them after getting damaged,.. shocks the plant and then it stalls,...
--- as such, the soil may have sufficient nutes present, but just aren't getting taken up well for the above reasons,... I see mulitple defc.'s happening, which hints that some or all of what I've said is happening...
-- pH may be a mitigating factor as well, guess we'll see soon I hope! Once that's figured, next steps will be clearer,.. Did you get a new bloom nute with more P than K? A lot of what i see is typical P defc. symptoms, yellowing, wasting, big necrotic patches,.. color fade and spotting at top is probably a minor micronute defc. kicking in,... Getting the temps up is also key, or nothing else you do will help much, that's a kinpin here next to pH determination,...
Lot of bad rap on Fox Farms here. Maybe it's not very good for auto's but I use it consistently for my photo's with good results. I start out in a 16 oz. cup of Happy Frog & each time I up-pot I use Ocean Forrest. I don't think the gnats came from the soil as it's sterilized. However, I use a product called Gnat Nix on top of all my grows to prevent gnats from getting in it in the 1st place. I could see gnats & larva getting in the soil if you left an open bag in the garage or something & used it at a later date. Or ... if you have other house plants that they could have come from. On my very 1st grow I used Miracle grow soil & that was a gnat infestation. Took forever to get it under control using Mosquito Dunks, Peroxide & Gnat Nix. End result for a 1st grow ended up being 2.5 oz of fairly decent weed from bag seeds. Not really trying to defend Fox Farms. Just sharing my experience with it. I like it because I don't use any nutes with it until 4 weeks into flower with photo periods. I also up-potted from 16 oz. cups to 1-gal then 3 gal then 5 gal bags every 3-4 weeks.
You don't use nutes with Fox Farms for a minimum of 4 weeks or you will burn them. It's a very hot soil mix with all the nutes you need already in it. After about 4 weeks the nutes will have died down enough to add your own. I see your problem as over-feeding. If you want to feed from the beginning you'll have to flush the soil with at least 20 gallons of water to make the nutes in the soil weak enough to handle them. Only thing I add weeks 2-4 are Rapid Start & CaliMagic @ 1/2 the recommended dosage.
I'll bet that weed comes out really harsh from too many nutes. Have you considered just using 1 tablespoon of Molasses per 1 gallon of water your last couple weeks of flower ?
It works GREAT !!! Your plants will love it & you'll like the really resinous buds you'll get doing so.
It works GREAT !!! Your plants will love it & you'll like the really resinous buds you'll get doing so.
If you go on Robert Bergman's ILGM (I Love Growing Marijuana) website it has pics of a whole lot of symptoms & tells you how to fix them. Lots of great info there.
Clawing & Twisting can be a few things but is most often caused by too much light or lights too close to the canopy.
Fox Farm Happy Frog and Ocean Forrest is what I have been using on autoflowers for YEARS. I have NEVER PH'd anything. Plants always grow out nicely. I can't deny anybody that has had issues with it, I can only say I never have, from my micro grows to some large scale grows, never had a issue, now watch me jinx myself after posting this.
I do not consider myself an expert by any means. I have had some of these issues on my 1st grow so I read & read everything I could on many sites to get all the knowledge I could gather. I probably read 3 hours or more everyday so I have the knowledge when a problem occurs. I've only been growing for about 15 months now and they were all photo period grows so some things may not apply to Auto's. I'm just starting my 1st Auto grow so we'll see what happens. I have had 4 successful photo grows without any issues though after all my studying. I still read everyday as I can never know it all.
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