25 things I wish I knew starting out (most of which I learned on AFN).
I put this list together as an attempt to make a list of important concepts I have learned on this journey – and that I wish I had known from the start. Maybe it will accelerate a new grower's learning curve. This is in no specific order of priority. All of these are IMHO, and YMMV. I am certain some will disagree. Please feel free to add your own, asks questions, and thanks!
Thanks!
I put this list together as an attempt to make a list of important concepts I have learned on this journey – and that I wish I had known from the start. Maybe it will accelerate a new grower's learning curve. This is in no specific order of priority. All of these are IMHO, and YMMV. I am certain some will disagree. Please feel free to add your own, asks questions, and thanks!
| 1. | (Hydro): Nutrient balance – trying to add this and that to correct a perceived deficiency usually doesn’t work just makes it out of balance – just do a res change. Understand the concept of balanced nutrients. |
| 2. | (Hydro): root health is the key (many paths to this one). Whatever your strategy (sterile, inoculants, etc.) keep up with it - root problems past a certain point are difficult to manage. |
| 3. | (Hydro - probably for other media too): if you are getting lots of shift or concerning pH readings, the first thing should be instrument calibration. I have made many f-ups by not following this one. If you compensate for an incorrect pH reading you are usually making a good situation bad, or a bad one worse. |
| 4. | (Soil): watering is an art. MoG’s posts on this are very helpful |
| 5. | (Soil): A good indicator of underwatering - stems and leaves droop; overwatering – stems turgid, leaves droop |
| 6. | (Soil): If you are an organic grower, understand that it’s all about the microbes. Some great info on AFN on this. |
| 7. | (Soil and Hydro): more often than not, if you think it’s a deficiency it’s actually a toxicity or lockout (either due to out of balance nutrients or pH issues) |
| 8. | (Soil and Hydro): These methodologies are different animals using different physical processes to grow, flower, and fruit. Be careful of blanket statements that purport to apply to both. For example, many soil-based inoculant products (bacteria and fungi) say they work in hydro, but there is no real data to back that up given the different (and much less robust) microbial populations in the hydro solution rhizosphere vs. soil. |
| 9. | (Soil and Hydro): This usually goes without saying but know your source water and what’s in it. At the very least, check EC and pH. Even better, obtain a source report if possible so you know Ca, Mg and whether there are chloramines. |
| 10. | Products: Caveat emptor. Don’t fall to the product hustle as a newbie. Do lots of research. Simpler is usually better. |
| 11. | VPD is your friend. Use an IR gun to measure leaf surface temperature. |
| 12. | Solid genetics are more than half the battle (and perhaps much more) |
| 13. | Use a GFCI dammit! Many people die via preventable electrocution by not using one in various circumstances. Having/moving/sloshing/applying water in a typical grow environment is one of those circumstance. |
| 14. | Don’t be reluctant to challenge conventional wisdom (even on AFN) if it doesn’t make sense to you (or even just generally). Beware the dreaded “bro science” and acknowledge that methodologies are constantly evolving (spurred by advances in genetics and the increasing research dollars spent on C. sativa cultivation generally). |
| 15. | Starting out, find a “sensei” (“sensi?”  ) whose methodology makes sense to you and follow that methodology. Once you have become comfortable with that process and understand it, you can then develop/change it as you feel necessary and as your experience grows (or reject it entirely). |
| 16. | Don’t skimp on testing equipment. Buy decent pH and EC meters. Calibrate weekly. |
| 17. | Be kind, especially to your fellow growers. We’re all trying to get to the same general place. |
| 18. | Understand DLI and how it affects C. sativa. Dr. Bruce Bugbee’s videos are a good starting point. Consider buying a PAR meter. |
| 19. | If your leaves droop before dark period, it’s probably normal. Through circadian rhythm they “remember” the dark cycle time. If they are still drooping 2-3 hours after lights on, it’s another issue. |
| 20. | Pay attention to drying and curing - develop a process you are comfortable with and that works. It has as much impact on final quality as anything. Slower is better. |
| 21. | If you defoliate, have a reason for doing so (improve airflow, expose bud sites). Not just for bud porn. A few at a time please. |
| 22. | Use a digital scale to measure dry materials. It’s cheap and much more accurate. The difference in weight vs. volume in dry nutrients and other products can be significant. |
| 23. | There are many different approaches to plant training. They all may be useful given a particular situation so try to familiarize yourself with the major ones (LST, topping, supercropping, etc.) Depending on the technique – such as topping – special rules may apply to autos. |
| 24. | That being said, it’s risky to top an auto after 21 days. Just sayin.’ |
| 25. | For f’s sake appreciate the ride. It’s a privilege to assist and accompany these magnificent organisms through their life journey - at the end of which we get fire and meds. Enjoy and find peace and gratitude. |
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