Grow Mediums A-Train needs info on the coco for future run... help a brother out.

This is the first I've ever heard of doing this.. Does CaliMagic have a higher N value? I generally don't add CalMag to my feeds until flower since I use bubbled tap water. I'm very happy using General Organics in flower due to it being 0-0-0.

On a side note, when do you turn your air pump on? I was thinking day 20ish?
If you are referring to regularly, prophylactically, feeding a calcium/magnesium supplement throughout a grow, that's pretty normal (among coco/LED growers). If you were referring to my switching from using Gen. Hydro. CALiMAGic (1-0-0) during veg. phase to Gen. Org. CaMg+ (0-0-0) in bloom due to concerns about CALiMAGic having a little bit of N, the functional difference between the two is rather small, likely irrelevant. I just do that because I have both, need to use them up, and because it can't hurt to go with N=0 vs. N=1 during bloom. Although I would use CALiMAGic over CaMg+, if I even suspected an actual deficiency. I presume CALiMAGic is more potent.

Regarding when to turn on AirDome air pumps, I presume it should be done as soon as the Autopot is first flooded. Why would you ever give your plants non-oxygenated feed if you've got the AutoPot running and the AirDome installed? Can you explain why you selected day 20 as a good time to turn on the air pump? Do you wait that long before turning on the AutoPot?
 
:smoking: A-T' -- your well water, is it pre-filtered before it goes to the house? Likely, it's fine, at least fairly soft,... I missed where I saw what your tap water pH is, unadjusted? Get that TDS meter, brudda, it will be needed! You might not have to do a thing with your water... Did you bring water samples to work and test yet?

I've read up lots of stuff from Canna, the coco coir and nutrient company, and found this article that particularly relevant ( http://www.cannagardening.com/growing_on_coco_busting_the_myth ); there are others, but you have to poke around the site a bit to sift them out... About the best water to use, RO/Di vs tap (mild hardness), combined with their coco nute line, they say don't use straight RO-- (found this at a hydro store site->
CANNA USA | COCO

Canna Feed Chart

  • From the first day onwards, apply RHIZOTONIC for an even better root development and a stronger vigorous plant; also apply RHIZOTONIC-solution on the leaves
  • After about 1 week start using CANNAZYM. This enzyme and vitamin product facilitates the breakdown of dead plant material preventing the rotting of this organic material.It stimulates important soil microbes while increasing the intake of nutrients which insures that CANNA COCO can be re-used extremely well.
  • Application: at least once a week
  • Do not place too many plants per square foot (m2) plants will generally become larger on CANNA COCO and dependent, on the variety, will need more room compared to cultivating on rockwool or soil. Because of this, a bloom or harvest period could be started days earlier Measuring the drain water from the coconut substrate provides irrelevant information; steering with the use of such information can thus cause damage to the plant. So, no need for measurements when using CANNA fertilizer together with CANNA COCO in a normal setting.
  • Always use fresh nutrient solution and feed as regularly as the plants can tolerate.
  • Avoid using pure RO filtered water due to the formation of bicarbonates and reduced availability of nutrients. *( I'm not sure what's behind the chemistry of this, but I'll take it on faith- LOL!)
  • If the tap water is hard then use a mixture of both tap and filtered water to reach a 0.2 to 0.5ec reading before mixing nutrients
  • Always use equal volumes of A&B.
  • Collect between 10% and 20% of the solution used at each feeding as runoff. ---> *( I think they mean allow, not collect)
  • Try using Citric acid or Nitric acid as alternatives to Phosphoric acid pH down products in coconut coir med
.... By USA standards, 1.0EC = 500ppm (640pm EU), so from what BII got from the AN rep' and this, it seems a little hardness in the water is a good/required thing, depending on whose nute's you use, and if they're coco-specific.. this is what concerns me most, because the specific nute's are formulated to deal with the whole K balancing act with Ca and Mg and all that CEC confucksion! :doh:-- the linked article helps make some sense of this, though it's worded oddly at times-- translation snafu's... Oh, also, multiple sources warn about using just water alone in coco, there must always be at least some mild nute dosage in there,... Of course, with the Autopots, this is moot! :greenthumb:-- but still important to know,...

>> Rifleman-- :thumbsup: thanks for pH the readings,... from what you said about their state, and the wacky readings they gave out of the calibration solution, they need multi-point 4-7-10 pH calibrating-- just in case you need them down the road- :eyebrows:-- as they stand, they aren't talkin' straight!
 
If you are referring to regularly, prophylactically, feeding a calcium/magnesium supplement throughout a grow, that's pretty normal (among coco/LED growers). If you were referring to my switching from using Gen. Hydro. CALiMAGic (1-0-0) during veg. phase to Gen. Org. CaMg+ (0-0-0) in bloom due to concerns about CALiMAGic having a little bit of N, the functional difference between the two is rather small, likely irrelevant. I just do that because I have both, need to use them up, and because it can't hurt to go with N=0 vs. N=1 during bloom. Although I would use CALiMAGic over CaMg+, if I even suspected an actual deficiency. I presume CALiMAGic is more potent.

Regarding when to turn on AirDome air pumps, I presume it should be done as soon as the Autopot is first flooded. Why would you ever give your plants non-oxygenated feed if you've got the AutoPot running and the AirDome installed? Can you explain why you selected day 20 as a good time to turn on the air pump? Do you wait that long before turning on the AutoPot?


I just now saw this. I would like to turn the air pumps on as soon as possible, I just wasn't sure when I actually should. I was told to wait until the roots are well established. I have yet to use my autopot system, so I'm not sure when I should switch over from hand feeding.
 
Great read and thanks for starting the thread A-train. I was also planning on mixing coco with ffof to place in 2 x 2 foot holes in a planned guerilla grow this summer, (thinking the 50/50 mix would be a better buffer than just plain coco). not to mention that coco is so much cheaper! If I'm wrong here, please let me know b-4 I screw shit up before I even get started ... Thanks!
 
I just now saw this. I would like to turn the air pumps on as soon as possible, I just wasn't sure when I actually should. I was told to wait until the roots are well established. I have yet to use my autopot system, so I'm not sure when I should switch over from hand feeding.
I recall starting (both the Autopots and air pumps) at 12 days, with the generic/non-cannabis instructions citing 10 or more days.
 
Ok last question before I jump into this thing next month. I have already asked a few hydro guys and a coco guy but I want input from ONLY hands on Advanced Nutrients pH perfect users.


I know some use ro and some use tap but do you all ph down your res or feed water? @Rifleman is a hydro AN guy he just mixes and waters .... perfect plants. I use soil I just mix and water with outstanding results. @Fantasy Island @Hansbricks and any other AN users .... do you ph your res or feeds? Or just mix and let ride.

From what I've seen so far the AN line ph perfect works in all scenarios. But I feel better hearing it again before I just mix my res and turn on autopots after they are established

Hi @A-Train

Caveat: I have not made the shift to either Coco or Autopots ... YET. That is the next step.

However, I am a pH Perfect Sensi 'hands on' consumer. [in soil]
My tap water is shite.
pH any where from 7.6 to 8.4
EC of 0.5 to 0.6
It is HARD!

The pH Perfect range buffers it perfectly.
Even though it is outside of their recommended range to have a valid AN Guarantee.

Tap water + pH Perfect Sensi = mix and ride

Pretty much the same for every other pH Perfect user I have read.
pH pens sitting idle on the wall.
 
OK ... I have a question in my head that just won't go away.
If it's a dumb question, then I apologise in advance.

Here goes;

Why would anyone use clay pellets as a base in an Autopot + Airdome system?

I've seen many advocate it, but I genuinely don't understand the logic or rationale behind it.
From what very little knowledge I have, clay pellets are used to assist drainage, and also to aid in the oxygenation in systems like DWC.
I get that bit.
But what I don't get, is why you would need either in an Autopot + Airdome system.

Firstly, Autopot is essentially a leeching form of watering - it's bottom up - so why the need for a 'drainage' agent?
Top-down watering ... sure. But a bottom-up self-regulating system? Why the need for clay pellets as a drainage agent?

Secondly, why would you need clay pellets for oxygenation if you have Airdomes?
Also, most also advocate oxygenation via airstone at the reservoir ... so why the need for clay pellets for oxygenation?

If not for drainage, and not for oxygenation, then why?
How are clay pellets at the bottom of an Autopot beneficial?
What purpose do they serve?

Do people use clay pellets in their Autopot systems because of the true science behind it, as a theory?
Or is it just more about convention and its because its what other people did before them?

What am I missing?

Sorry for the dumb question ... I have been struggling with it, but just got to that point where not asking it was harder than asking it.
 
Back
Top