Grow Mediums Aquaponics with f6'!
- Thread starter puggle6
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Free Flow
Hydro Junkie
Hey man, the next dragons are supposed to be White Gem x Alf#5 according to @Mossy (I think!) There is supposed to be a commercial quantity coming soon!
Stones dragons are the only ones I could get a hold of. Send him a request using the portal web form to get access to the portal forums, there isn't a lot of discussion there though, but I'm sure you can ask questions.
Little durt SD! Stenky! But so small!
I've only ever used T5 lights for the very early stages and not tried to grow out with. To the guys and gals that rock the T5 moar power to you... but not working for me!
@Olde School Player will collect data on these lights and the HID when I fire those bad boys
I've only ever used T5 lights for the very early stages and not tried to grow out with. To the guys and gals that rock the T5 moar power to you... but not working for me!
@Olde School Player will collect data on these lights and the HID when I fire those bad boys
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Hey @fettled6 , playing catch-up, been neglecting my forum time this week
So you're looking for pollen, have you ever tried colloidal silver to treat one female, then collect the pollen to pollenate the other female? I did this with photoperiods many years ago & it worked great. As soon as the plant started showing flowers, I sprayed the female flower(s) daily until male flowers appeared, usually within a couple of weeks. I would collect the male flowers in a very small paper bag and refrigerate until the female flowers were 4-5 weeks old. Then I would carefully place the paper bag with male flowers around the end bud of a branch and tie it closed for 24 - 48 hours, shaking & rotating the bag several times a day. Before removing the bag, I would spray it thoroughly with water - soak it through as much as possible. Theory being, any remaining pollen would be contained by adhering to the bag, and no unwanted pollenization would occur when the bag was removed.
Theoretically, you can do this with a single plant by treating select branches, then pollenate different branches for seed. But IMHO I think you benefit from a bit of genetic diversity if you use two (or more) plants - one to treat to force the male flowers to grow; the other(s) to receive the pollen and make the feminized seed. Call it a simplified version of maintaining hybrid vigor in your seed stock.
Although colloidal silver is completely safe (some people drink it, not sure why....) I never smoked the treated buds; just collected the pollenated bud(s) and cured them separate from the rest of my crop. When completely cured I carefully crushed the bud, collected the seeds, discarded the plant material, and refrigerated the seed so they could finish their drying / maturation process. Time alone would probably do this just as well, but I store all my seeds in the refrigerator, so I kept doing that. But the key point is that colloidal silver is perfectly safe & you won't grow a third testicle or anything weird like that.
I have also heard that you may use gibberillic acid to force male flowers on a female plant but never tried that.
I also heard, once upon a time many many years ago, that aspirin dissolved in water would force male flowers. But that's so long ago & I might have been high....
Last but not least, I quit using colloidal silver for my photoperiod plants when I discovered that you can force most any (photoperiod) plant to hermie simply by extending its bloom period a few weeks past its normal productive lifecycle. This puts the plant's built-in survival mechanisms into play to propagate the species, and forces development of male flowers that can be collected and reserved for use on your next crop. Just look for the bananas, tweezer them off the buds and collect in the paper bag as above. BUT... I am not sure this will work with autoflowers. In my dozen-plus auto grow experiences, I have run several crops past their normal maturation cycle, but to date have not seen evidence of a successfully forced hermaphroditation. Maybe I just didn't look closely enough??? The wife trims most of my buds so I may have just missed the opportunity.
Concerning full grows under T-5's, never tried that either. I do have a close friend who veg-es with great success under a 4-lamp T-5 (48" / 220watt total) but bloom? Wouldn't try it.
When you fire the HID's I pretty well can guess the effect, they are gonna stretch like crazy. You and I have seen that forever, know to expect it, and know how to manage it. So far @redeye jedi has been the only mate on here that's shown me some very good stretch under LED, and he was using Bigsm0's 3000 and 3500K COB's. Guess what???? Exact same degrees kelvin spectrums as our HPS HID's. Now if we can just get all LED manufacturers to start publishing degrees kelvin specs, or if someone can teach me how to convert nanometer ranges to degrees kelvin? Until that happens, I've convinced myself to veg and early-bloom under HID then hang one of my LED systems to continue bloom to set some big fat hard-assed juicy buds. Let's see how that works for me!!!
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Oh, by-the-way, I could not find my old notes on use of colloidal silver, but I did find this link with very good information. It also includes the extended bloom time method - Rodelization. I'll never remember a nonsensical name like that so I bookmarked it too
Here's the link if you want some further reading: http://calgarycmmc.com/makefeminizedseeds.htm
It also has a good DIY on making your own colloidal silver. You can use your wife's Sunday-best fine dining silver if you enjoy getting hit over the head; I used food grade silver solder (lead-free silver only) when I made mine.
Here's the link if you want some further reading: http://calgarycmmc.com/makefeminizedseeds.htmIt also has a good DIY on making your own colloidal silver. You can use your wife's Sunday-best fine dining silver if you enjoy getting hit over the head; I used food grade silver solder (lead-free silver only) when I made mine.
The old man has a colidal zapper.. didn't want to turn a female, prefer to get lucky with a male from the reg auto SD's
As I have this little tent I can be paitent and keep germing until I get one. I did have one but the pH issues I think stressed it and it hermied back to a female. Mossy said don't use it!
I'll go back over this thread and measure my light settings for the T5 and blurples and report in your thread on stretch. I think my phone can run a par meter app so I'll try and include that detail. I don't think it will be very usable data though due to these types of lights. @912GreenSkell and I discussed T5 and stretch a while ago and they seem to inhibit the dreaded seedling stretch!
The male SD that hermied did have a very short period of stretch (like 3-5 days) but the current female has not stretched at all (yet) but may...? Not sure, she's pretty stumpy!
The male had veg time under 6100k T5 globes which may have been at end of life and stretched when I fitted new 3100k globes. The female has only had 3100k globes and no veg time under 6100k which may make comparisons convoluted.. that said, I'll try to rationalize the data I supply you.
Should have some interesting data on the 860w CMH soon, the grow where I was interrupted, the girls streatched like nothing I've ever seen!
As I have this little tent I can be paitent and keep germing until I get one. I did have one but the pH issues I think stressed it and it hermied back to a female. Mossy said don't use it!
I'll go back over this thread and measure my light settings for the T5 and blurples and report in your thread on stretch. I think my phone can run a par meter app so I'll try and include that detail. I don't think it will be very usable data though due to these types of lights. @912GreenSkell and I discussed T5 and stretch a while ago and they seem to inhibit the dreaded seedling stretch!
The male SD that hermied did have a very short period of stretch (like 3-5 days) but the current female has not stretched at all (yet) but may...? Not sure, she's pretty stumpy!
The male had veg time under 6100k T5 globes which may have been at end of life and stretched when I fitted new 3100k globes. The female has only had 3100k globes and no veg time under 6100k which may make comparisons convoluted.. that said, I'll try to rationalize the data I supply you.
Should have some interesting data on the 860w CMH soon, the grow where I was interrupted, the girls streatched like nothing I've ever seen!
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@fettled6 good info, thanks for the follow up. Sounds like you may have a source for non-feminized autoflower seeds, that would be golden. I don't, in fact only once have I ever encountered a male autoflower & that was a "mistake" seed from G-13 Labs, a Pineapple Express auto that turned out full male. At the time I was actually pissed about it... with my single-plant grows a male plant throws away at least a month's grow time for me. Alas, all things are relative when viewed from another angle. Wish I'd kept it now.
Yeah, T-5's or any compact fluorescent light will do a great job of preventing seedling stretch, just by dropping them down right on top of the sprout - like 2 - 3" above the sprout. I always used 42W (actual) CFL's in a brooder reflector, or 65W actual CFL outdoor floods for my seedlings and they did a great job. T-5's should exhibit the exact same characteristics, just took up more real estate than I needed for the seed numbers I was popping (10 or less, in my good ole' phenotype search days). I always used daylight spectrum, 5500 to 6500K & stretch never was an issue. I had a couple of 2900K warm spectrum T-5' bulbs that I bought with the intent of some breeding projects but never used them, they are in the back of my garage somewhere....
I'll be really interested to see your CMH results, no experience with those so it will be a learning curve read for me. Keep me posted.
Final comment, let me know your experience with any PAR meter app you find for your smartphone. Great idea / never thought of it so I need to find an app too.
Be seeing ya around!
Yeah, T-5's or any compact fluorescent light will do a great job of preventing seedling stretch, just by dropping them down right on top of the sprout - like 2 - 3" above the sprout. I always used 42W (actual) CFL's in a brooder reflector, or 65W actual CFL outdoor floods for my seedlings and they did a great job. T-5's should exhibit the exact same characteristics, just took up more real estate than I needed for the seed numbers I was popping (10 or less, in my good ole' phenotype search days). I always used daylight spectrum, 5500 to 6500K & stretch never was an issue. I had a couple of 2900K warm spectrum T-5' bulbs that I bought with the intent of some breeding projects but never used them, they are in the back of my garage somewhere....
I'll be really interested to see your CMH results, no experience with those so it will be a learning curve read for me. Keep me posted.
Final comment, let me know your experience with any PAR meter app you find for your smartphone. Great idea / never thought of it so I need to find an app too.
Be seeing ya around!
