I would lst now before that stem gets any thicker....I started mine at 12 days old....they like being trained....just go easy on the initial bend....do it gradually.
Outdoor Auto Berry Marijuana-Seeds.nl outdoor patio grow
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I'm planning on giving it until the end of the week and then LST'ing it. Thanks for the advice/heads up though, will be interesting to see how i get on.
Hey chester, it is in a small pot mainly due to the location and the need for discretion. I'm overlooked in my backyard and don't have the space indoors at the mo. This is a kind off trial grow as i had some beans spare. I'm hoping the LST will help me maximize the yield depsite the small pots.
The plants are more flexible when thirsty, and take it slow bud. Thats really all the advice I can really give ya lol sorry bro. Look up stunted, dude is an lst GOD!
I could be wrong, but i'm not sure that's right! I've always LST'd after watering, but i'll try and get some confirmation on that.
Stunted is a great person to look at for LST inspiration - also Hazy has started a new log and it looks like he will be doing his bamboo cane LST again.
I found a great guide on a different forum but can't find it for the life of me now!
Here's a picture process of LST for some ideas
I could be wrong, but i'm not sure that's right! I've always LST'd after watering, but i'll try and get some confirmation on that.
Stunted is a great person to look at for LST inspiration - also Hazy has started a new log and it looks like he will be doing his bamboo cane LST again.
I found a great guide on a different forum but can't find it for the life of me now!
Here's a picture process of LST for some ideas
I could easily be wrong lol maybe we can call that an opinion instead of tip.lol
hehe Screwg
I can't find a definitive answer on that - i see other people posting that a plant is less brittle after watering and have always taken that as law. It's always worked for me, but i've snapped stuff too - it's all part of the fun.
Well i've stolen this guide from somewhere else - not my work. It's from a mainly photo period perspective, but don't worry about that - just don't go crazy in full flower mode, get the training done before the 6 week mark and it should all be fine
STEP 1: Grow your plant from a potent marijuana seeds strain of choice to 3 or 4 leaf sets, some use 5 but i always use 3 because after 3rd leaf set the main stem starts to harden and it will be harder to bend over your plant properly without breaking the main stem.
STEP 2: Using a metal hook (i cut small sections of cloths hanger and bend a U shape at the end as a hook) bend over your plant with metal hook at the last internode (space between the last set of fanleafs and the next to last) and stick the metal hook into your dirt to hold down the stem.
STEP 3: This is really not a step, just waiting time... Take note of how the top of the plant that was bent down will bend back upwards towards the light, this could take anywhere from 3 hours to 1 day. Under my 1000 Watt Metal Halide light it does it in under 3 hours.
STEP 4: Veg and dont tie down until you have a new leaf set. You will notice Side branching has started already because good light is getting to the main stem areas next to each fanleaf stem intersection with the main stem.
STEP 5: Depending on your starting pot size you may have to transplant. If you started out with a large pot, repeat step 2 over and over again holding the main stem down with hooks until you reach the end of the pot. In this illustration to save time and drawings, i started out with a small pot and it reached the end of the pot after the first tiedown. I repotted it into a 10 inch pot which will be my final pot size for this plant in order for me to continue the LST Bends around the inside edge of the pot.
STEP 6: Now that your new leaf set has formed you have enough length in growth since the first bend(s) to allow you to start bending the stem horizontally around the inside edge of the pot. Use metal hooks again to keep this bend in place. Side branches should be coming along very nicely. Sativa cannabis seeds strains grow faster and produce more stems, indica marijuana seeds varieties will grow half as much.
STEP 7: Continue repeating steps 4 and 6, allowing the plant to grow and then keep tieing it down along the inside edge of pot using metal hooks (or whatever your using) Side branches should be forming and growing up towards the light.
STEP 8: Continue to repeat step 7 until you are all the way around the pot... when you reach the point where your plant first met the edge of the plant Top the plant (cut off the very top of the plant) and hold it down horizontally with a metal hook... During all this time of repeating step 7 you should also be tieing down horizontally the new branches that have formed from the main stem as much as possible until you use up as much space as possible inside the pot as well , the outter branches growing over the outside edge of the pot you can hold down as well with string to keep those tops even with the inner branches.
STEP 9: After you have used up all possible space inside the pot (or your eggcrate) its time to just let it flower.. This is a side view of how it will and should look by that time with all the side branches growing upwards towards the light... these will all become Collas unlike a non LST plant will only have one colla.
I can't find a definitive answer on that - i see other people posting that a plant is less brittle after watering and have always taken that as law. It's always worked for me, but i've snapped stuff too - it's all part of the fun.
Well i've stolen this guide from somewhere else - not my work. It's from a mainly photo period perspective, but don't worry about that - just don't go crazy in full flower mode, get the training done before the 6 week mark and it should all be fine
STEP 1: Grow your plant from a potent marijuana seeds strain of choice to 3 or 4 leaf sets, some use 5 but i always use 3 because after 3rd leaf set the main stem starts to harden and it will be harder to bend over your plant properly without breaking the main stem.
STEP 2: Using a metal hook (i cut small sections of cloths hanger and bend a U shape at the end as a hook) bend over your plant with metal hook at the last internode (space between the last set of fanleafs and the next to last) and stick the metal hook into your dirt to hold down the stem.
STEP 3: This is really not a step, just waiting time... Take note of how the top of the plant that was bent down will bend back upwards towards the light, this could take anywhere from 3 hours to 1 day. Under my 1000 Watt Metal Halide light it does it in under 3 hours.
STEP 4: Veg and dont tie down until you have a new leaf set. You will notice Side branching has started already because good light is getting to the main stem areas next to each fanleaf stem intersection with the main stem.
STEP 5: Depending on your starting pot size you may have to transplant. If you started out with a large pot, repeat step 2 over and over again holding the main stem down with hooks until you reach the end of the pot. In this illustration to save time and drawings, i started out with a small pot and it reached the end of the pot after the first tiedown. I repotted it into a 10 inch pot which will be my final pot size for this plant in order for me to continue the LST Bends around the inside edge of the pot.
STEP 6: Now that your new leaf set has formed you have enough length in growth since the first bend(s) to allow you to start bending the stem horizontally around the inside edge of the pot. Use metal hooks again to keep this bend in place. Side branches should be coming along very nicely. Sativa cannabis seeds strains grow faster and produce more stems, indica marijuana seeds varieties will grow half as much.
STEP 7: Continue repeating steps 4 and 6, allowing the plant to grow and then keep tieing it down along the inside edge of pot using metal hooks (or whatever your using) Side branches should be forming and growing up towards the light.
STEP 8: Continue to repeat step 7 until you are all the way around the pot... when you reach the point where your plant first met the edge of the plant Top the plant (cut off the very top of the plant) and hold it down horizontally with a metal hook... During all this time of repeating step 7 you should also be tieing down horizontally the new branches that have formed from the main stem as much as possible until you use up as much space as possible inside the pot as well , the outter branches growing over the outside edge of the pot you can hold down as well with string to keep those tops even with the inner branches.
STEP 9: After you have used up all possible space inside the pot (or your eggcrate) its time to just let it flower.. This is a side view of how it will and should look by that time with all the side branches growing upwards towards the light... these will all become Collas unlike a non LST plant will only have one colla.
Step 4. has more to do with apical dominace that available light.
Apical dominance in a plant is where vertical growth is dominant over lateral growth.
At the terminal bud (at the apex of the plant) auxins (which are hormones) are produced wich promote verticle growth and retards latral (horizontal) growth.
Bending a plant and making the terminal bud lower results in lower auxin production & so the lower latral growth surges forth.
Suddenly we find that the latral growth become verical growth and there are now many terminal buds all producing auxins further reducing lower latral growth.
In a normal plant that has not been bent or topped, the terminal bud grows upwards and as it gets further away from the lower nodes recieve less auxin retardment and they grow in to side braches.
As much as it might seem logical the because the lower latral growth is reciving more light it spurs thier growth , it is in fact the reduction in auxin levels.
This technique has been used in fruit tree training such as espalier, fan training and step over, which produces higher crop yields as it is the new latral growth where the fruiting buds are to be found.
Another interesting fact about auxins is that this is also the hormone responsible for rooting and why we take cutting where we do.Any young plant want to reach for the light and grow taller than any competing plant around it and it is the auxins that make it do this by making verticle growth the dominant trait.
Love the diagrams blue ,I have seen this done with long lanky sativa strains when grown in a height restricted space
@skrewg, one could almost say - one opinion but multiple tips XD
peace
Growerz
Apical dominance in a plant is where vertical growth is dominant over lateral growth.
At the terminal bud (at the apex of the plant) auxins (which are hormones) are produced wich promote verticle growth and retards latral (horizontal) growth.
Bending a plant and making the terminal bud lower results in lower auxin production & so the lower latral growth surges forth.
Suddenly we find that the latral growth become verical growth and there are now many terminal buds all producing auxins further reducing lower latral growth.
In a normal plant that has not been bent or topped, the terminal bud grows upwards and as it gets further away from the lower nodes recieve less auxin retardment and they grow in to side braches.
As much as it might seem logical the because the lower latral growth is reciving more light it spurs thier growth , it is in fact the reduction in auxin levels.
This technique has been used in fruit tree training such as espalier, fan training and step over, which produces higher crop yields as it is the new latral growth where the fruiting buds are to be found.
Another interesting fact about auxins is that this is also the hormone responsible for rooting and why we take cutting where we do.Any young plant want to reach for the light and grow taller than any competing plant around it and it is the auxins that make it do this by making verticle growth the dominant trait.
Love the diagrams blue ,I have seen this done with long lanky sativa strains when grown in a height restricted space
@skrewg, one could almost say - one opinion but multiple tips XD
peace
Growerz
Step 4. has more to do with apical dominace that available light.
Apical dominance in a plant is where vertical growth is dominant over lateral growth.
At the terminal bud (at the apex of the plant) auxins (which are hormones) are produced wich promote verticle growth and retards latral (horizontal) growth.
Bending a plant and making the terminal bud lower results in lower auxin production & so the lower latral growth surges forth.
Suddenly we find that the latral growth become verical growth and there are now many terminal buds all producing auxins further reducing lower latral growth.
In a normal plant that has not been bent or topped, the terminal bud grows upwards and as it gets further away from the lower nodes recieve less auxin retardment and they grow in to side braches.
As much as it might seem logical the because the lower latral growth is reciving more light it spurs thier growth , it is in fact the reduction in auxin levels.
This technique has been used in fruit tree training such as espalier, fan training and step over, which produces higher crop yields as it is the new latral growth where the fruiting buds are to be found.
Another interesting fact about auxins is that this is also the hormone responsible for rooting and why we take cutting where we do.Any young plant want to reach for the light and grow taller than any competing plant around it and it is the auxins that make it do this by making verticle growth the dominant trait.
Love the diagrams blue ,I have seen this done with long lanky sativa strains when grown in a height restricted space
@skrewg, one could almost say - one opinion but multiple tips XD
peace
Growerz
I was referring to my post that blue pointed out. I wasnt disagreeing with anything lol
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