Auto Warriors Do...Optic Foliar Live Interview I * 7-29-2016

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:welcome:Hi Dinesh! Thank you very much for spending some Q&A time with us here! I'm Waira, and as the Infirmary guy here, I'm keenly interested in your products,...
Deficiencies are hands down the most common issue I see, pH related or not; toxicity much less often, and more difficult to diagnose,...
..I've been touting the virtues of foliar spraying for years because of it's diversity of applications.. the 3 F's if you would- :biggrin: -- Feed, Fix (defc.'s), and Fight (vermins)... BUT it needs be done right to get best results, and avoid the hazards,.. critical to this has been the need to use wetting agents/water spreaders (to get max. surface area coverage) and along that line, spraying the bottoms of the leaves...
...your products deliver in a way that circumvents these restrictions and requirements :clapper: :greenthumb:... can to expand on how they are working around the cuticle layer? Tinkering with stomata openings is one thing, but as a "mechanical" barrier of sorts, the waxy layer seems a challenge to get through...
... also, along that line, usually stuff needs to be in aqueous solution to get into the leaf via the stomata,... I understand that there's no need to spray the undersides of the leaves where most stomata are,... I gather in part this is because of the work-around of the cuticle layer penetration... but is there something in there that opens up the stomata as well?


I guess you and I wanted to know the same exact thing lol
 
fire away with any questions, here is some basic info to get us all started. My focus in making a foliar spray was to solve allot of foliar spray problems and actually use the science of the plant and to fully utilize the palisade mesophyll layer in a way that no other foliar company does, we use this region within the leaf for light and nutrition, but do not take advantage of the potential with foliar sprays.

Key Features:

  • Spray with the lights on, no damage or burning
  • No need to pH correct spray solution
SWITCH: Combats and prevents hermies and seeding.Will also tighten nodes and trigger blooms in 7-10 days after putting plants into 12/12.


OVERGROW: Only ready-to-use spray that can be sprayed with the lights on that will increase performance and correct any deficiency in less than 24 hours!


TRANSPORT: Reduce pesticide applications by 75% when used with Transport. Spray with the lights on, and no need to spray the undersides of leaves. Will kill adult pests, babies and eggs!


WATTS: Increase photosynthesis and lumen intake from lamps resulting in faster growth; can reduce a 4 week grow cycle down to 3 weeks!


ATAK: Spray to combat and prevent Powdery Mildew; lights on with no damage, burning and nothing to wash off. Safe to use into the last week of flower!
 
fire away with any questions, here is some basic info to get us all started. My focus in making a foliar spray was to solve allot of foliar spray problems and actually use the science of the plant and to fully utilize the palisade mesophyll layer in a way that no other foliar company does, we use this region within the leaf for light and nutrition, but do not take advantage of the potential with foliar sprays.

Key Features:

  • Spray with the lights on, no damage or burning
  • No need to pH correct spray solution
SWITCH: Combats and prevents hermies and seeding.Will also tighten nodes and trigger blooms in 7-10 days after putting plants into 12/12.


OVERGROW: Only ready-to-use spray that can be sprayed with the lights on that will increase performance and correct any deficiency in less than 24 hours!


TRANSPORT: Reduce pesticide applications by 75% when used with Transport. Spray with the lights on, and no need to spray the undersides of leaves. Will kill adult pests, babies and eggs!


WATTS: Increase photosynthesis and lumen intake from lamps resulting in faster growth; can reduce a 4 week grow cycle down to 3 weeks!


ATAK: Spray to combat and prevent Powdery Mildew; lights on with no damage, burning and nothing to wash off. Safe to use into the last week of flower!

My question is for the overgrow. It says the product can be used 2-3 times a week until week 4 of bloom, would it be the same for autoflowers which finish faster than photos? Or would it be used until week 2?
 
I love these videos @opticfoliar !! guy came prepared lol..
whats even better is the b.c. company that be-leafs ... hows that go with the locals? probably better than if you were based out of Ottawa lol .... (hockey reference... )

and ya!! the one above me... amazing question @Starbreaker
 
@derek420colorado . we temporarily open up the top cuticle layer, this creates a temporary opening that allows the spray solution to travel from the top epidermal layer of the leaf directly to the palisade mesophyl layer that is the internal factory of the plant and where all light and nutrition get converted into growth and sugars. so when we temporarily open up the top cuticle layer it is only for about 20 minutes and the solutions slides in and then the top cuticle layer goes back to its original shape and form with no damage or residuals to the leaves. I like to compare it to dominos delivery, we guarantee that we can delivery the foliar spray into the plants within 20 minutes with no damage or burning or residuals left on the plant.

Another member asked about the ph of the spray. DO NOT PH the spray solution!! it is not needed and a complete waste of time and effort. Again as transport temporarily opens up the top epidermal layer, it makes the need to ph unnecessary.
 
....I'm also very curious about how they products work safely in Sun/direct light,... I see lensing burn pretty often,... is it because of the speed of penetration?
 
@derek420colorado . we temporarily open up the top cuticle layer, this creates a temporary opening that allows the spray solution to travel from the top epidermal layer of the leaf directly to the palisade mesophyl layer that is the internal factory of the plant and where all light and nutrition get converted into growth and sugars. so when we temporarily open up the top cuticle layer it is only for about 20 minutes and the solutions slides in and then the top cuticle layer goes back to its original shape and form with no damage or residuals to the leaves. I like to compare it to dominos delivery, we guarantee that we can delivery the foliar spray into the plants within 20 minutes with no damage or burning or residuals left on the plant.

Another member asked about the ph of the spray. DO NOT PH the spray solution!! it is not needed and a complete waste of time and effort. Again as transport temporarily opens up the top epidermal layer, it makes the need to ph unnecessary.

Gotcha so, of course without giving away the secret sauce, it temporarily creates holes in the cuticle that get filled back in naturally by the cuticles waxes? I definitely understand the need to get everything to the mesophyll layer, I am concerned with any lasting damage to the cuticle layer as that is a key part of the plant lol in regulating temps n such.
 
....I'm also very curious about how they products work safely in Sun/direct light,... I see lensing burn pretty often,... is it because of the speed of penetration?
excellent questions Waira,i know your asking a more spcific question,but i use as directed and have never had adverse reactions/effects
 
@Waira No Need to spray the undersides of leaves, as we utilize transport to get the actives within the spray solution into the palisade mesophyll layer with transport....of course the follow up questions is, well what about with bugs!! great questions. so when you use a natural pesticide like neem, aza, pyrethrum with transport, first off use these natural pesticides at half strength with transport at full strength and spray tops of the leaves only. the reason being is because we deliver the spray into the palisade mesophyll layer we now make the natural pesticide systemic. so when the babies hatch, they want to eat and in turn take a bite of the leaves and then in turn injest the natural pesticide and dies off.
 
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