Hey AutoFlower Network ( Hoping For Your Help )

[The Elvis]

Looking at them again.. I dont see anything wrong with them other than there just to lime.. They have no spots no curl no nothing.. just to lime.. Id increase food/calmag across the board but the soil PH must be sorted..

 

[Ripper]

I thought the same @elvis like they are underfed

 

[Ripper]

Feed them till those tips burn then back off a touch...

 

[IceWater421]

Im going to try my hand at the infirmary once again since im high and have nothing better to do than help others haha only have a photo still in Veg.

In my opinion, (could be wrong)

PREPOST EDIT : Questions in order from the info of the first post. Every next question is affected by a previous one.

1. What Soil PH/Moisture Meter do you own? Most cheap ones are not too reliable......
2. What is your water source? People with Low PH water tend to still use PH UP and people with low PH etc....
3. Naturally, what is the PH of your water source? If RO or Distilled then that would explain the CalMag Def. The only nute i ever used full strength + with an auto is CalMag (maybe + = Iron)....
4. What space are you using that light in? Those plants look really stretched out to me and that could mean the light is too far....
5. Sucks about that probe......could the teas perhaps be changing the PH? Calcium and Magnesium are available at higher PHs than most other nutes.....
6. Is just the water being left out for a few days to bubble and then mix and feed OR water/feed mixed and bubbled OR (3) Water bubbled then feed mixed and left to bubble then fed? Just wondering because if you are mixing the GO BOX and the TEAS together a good experiment to do if you got another PH METER would be to do a small amount with option 3 and let the feed mix and bubble for 24hours and check PH then.....just a thought....

Now for a more personal question.....could we see the girls in their natural habitat?

Just trying to help and by no means not as experienced as most here like Elvis.......like to think im doing great sofar and even surprised myself but always something new with every strain and i have no EXP with this one.....

Grow on Folk!
CF

PS : Just realized i spent 45mins on this typing and reseaching, haha! This smoke is great but not before bedtime

Hey C Frog thanks for taking the time to read post look stuff up and ask me some questions back ( :
1.) The soil ph meter I am using has a moist button and a ph level button that you can switch over . it's a holdall is the brand it was like 15bucks its cheap (Lol) has the two probes )
2.) My water source is tap water left out for atleast 24 hours before using . I have had no meter to check ph broke my probe for my bluelab ph pen . got coil together to grab a new one today ( : . I have the bluelab combo meter.
3.) The water ph from the tap is high 8plus . with the go box it says no need to ph . and when my pen was working and I would check it after mixing nutes it would be 6.5 . lately I havn't been able to check , I do think too that its a lock out . and that I need to also lower soil ph . just not sure how to properly do that yet .
4.) Im in a 3x3 and 6.5 feet tall with a 400wat hps and my light is about 13inches from canopy . ( yeah that one does look stretched ): any closer and I would start curling the leafs upwards .
5.) yeah I dropped it and it kissed the ground only for a sec before I grabed cord but it was to late ( sucked ) I have read people saying teas don\t need to be adjusted for ph so I would just feed without having a way to check ph since probe was broke . I really wonder why plant looks stretched ): .
6.) Water is left out few days than added to tap water and stirred up well and given to girls .I did teas separate feeding than the go box nutes . like tea one feeding , plain water next than , teas third watering ,than nutes . yeah today I am hoping to pick up probe so I can than let water sit and get a better idea of ph of water/ water plus nutes . I can send pics of girls in natural habitat later today when the light on ( : . hahaha yeah good erb will get you lost on line reading and thinking lol I do it and end up way to late going to work wrecked the next day lol

 

[IceWater421]

Looking at them again.. I dont see anything wrong with them other than there just to lime.. They have no spots no curl no nothing.. just to lime.. Id increase food/calmag across the board but the soil PH must be sorted..

Yeah they do look lime especially the older fan leaves . there is a pic of a yellowing fan leaf that has a brown blotch on it in the center of the leaf its in pics I posted . I pm'd you about soil ph and not being sure how to get it back down to 5.8-6.3

 

[Waira]

Hey Ice'-- ...big picture, I can't be sure why she grew kinda leggy/spindly, but lighting is a likely suspect...if it's been HPS all the way, on a bulb with poor blue spec' in it, it'll cause this to happen,...
... GO Box nute's a great, but as with all organics, it's up to the soil microbes to break things down into absorbable forms, which take days, so there's always a delay of sorts to reaction,... they are mild too, so defc. can be more common,... have you been feeding at full strength, or diluting? Another common myth is that just because one uses organics, one doesn't need to keep an eye on soil pH, and that's wrong; only in TLO type soils is that the case, otherwise, organics are less likely to be problematic, but anything but foolproof... once in the soil, the plant and microbes both alter the chemistry beyond what the nutes/water was when it went in,.. and most all fert's are acidic... you're high water pH has helped buffer things.... that said, what I see is some mild N dec. starting... the overall yellowing, lowest leaves first, veins included are classic symptoms,... slightly pale leaves on uppers likely are part of it too, but that's too generic a symptom to make a call on just yet,.. I see not spots, discolored patches, margin/tip necrosis, so that's a good sign! She looks a little lean, hungry, so I'd mix some Biogrow with the Bloom to up the N a little for a few rounds (50/50), and I'd look into a bloom booster--higher PK-- than what Biobloom alone has,...keep on that Biobud, that's excellent stuff! Epsoms provide Mg and S, but as a salt, it's not the best source of these, better for treating a defc., and redundant with the Ca-Mg supp', IMO... what dosage are you using on the epsoms?

 

[IceWater421]

Hey Ice'-- ...big picture, I can't be sure why she grew kinda leggy/spindly, but lighting is a likely suspect...if it's been HPS all the way, on a bulb with poor blue spec' in it, it'll cause this to happen,...
... GO Box nute's a great, but as with all organics, it's up to the soil microbes to break things down into absorbable forms, which take days, so there's always a delay of sorts to reaction,... they are mild too, so defc. can be more common,... have you been feeding at full strength, or diluting? Another common myth is that just because one uses organics, one doesn't need to keep an eye on soil pH, and that wrong; only in TLO type soils is that the case, otherwise, organics are less likely to be problematic, but anything but foolproof... once in the soil, the plant and microbes both alter the chemistry beyond what the nutes/water was when it went in,.. and most all fert's are acidic... you're high water pH has helped buffer things.... that said, what I see is some mild N dec. starting... the overall yellowing, lowest leaves first, veins included are classic symptoms,... slightly pale leaves on uppers likely are part of it too, but that's too generic a symptom to make a call on just yet,.. I see not spots, discolored patches, margin/tip necrosis, so that's a good sign! She looks a little lean, hungry, so I'd mix some Biogrow with the Bloom to up the N a little for a few rounds (50/50), and I'd look into a bloom booster--higher PK-- than what Biobloom alone has,...keep on that Biobud, that's excellent stuff! Epsoms provide Mg and S, but as a salt, it's not the best source of these, better for treating a defc., and redundant with the Ca-Mg supp', IMO... what dosage are you using on the epsoms?

Hey thanks for the reply ( : Hey yeah they where under a metal halide ive had for about a year but don't use that long when its going its a 400 to. Thinking next go I should replace bulb or I do have a 8 blub fixture t5 I use for veg . yeah I have been feeding at full strength 10ml per gallon and 5 ml per gallon of cal mag. the plant does have one brown blotch on the yellowest leaf on the bottom and a slightly purple streak running up the stem about half way up the plant. I have not gave her Epsom salts other than when I first made the soil I put Epsom salts in it . I just cant remember the amount . Thanks for checking out my girl . I got a new ph probe for my pen today and am just waiting for light on

 

[Dinafem-Mark]

Hello going of our pm I did think it was nutrient lockout but looking at the plant I have to admit that they look underfed. You are feeding enough but as said autos can eat up food very fast.

The main concern is the ph being so high. We need to try and get this down. I know this can be done with sulphur but I have zero knowledge on this. My best advice would be to water with 6.3ph and test the run off. Then adjust your feeding as needed.

Please keep us posted on this

All the best

D-M.

 

[IceWater421]

So water at 6.3 with nutes being mixed up like waira had mentioned ? and test run off . yeah soil ph I have no idea how to lower haha . have a feeling im going to learn alt from you guys on here ( :

 

[Waira]

... oh yeah--forgot the pH stuff! Those skinny probe units are notoriously inaccurate, so I'd reject any reading they give,... the Accurate 8 works on the same principle, but is much more robust and better built/calibrated,... it's a must-have investment, IMO! The run-off method is crude and done wrong, worse than useless,... plus it requires you to soak the crap outta the soil, sometime that's okay, sometimes not... but in a pinch, if you follow this guide and calculation, it can give a decent reading--(https://www.autoflower.org/threads/...-for-run-off-testing-and-ph-estimation.41733/ ) ---testing straight run-off alone won't give accurate pH measurements, too many corrupting factors altering the pH; neven include nutes in this test, and you'll need RO/Di water (low to no ppm water of some kind) for the final pour through; this is important because you don't want any pH influencing factors in there messing with the true reading of the soil... basically, you're prep'ing the soil to steep and make a "tea" of sorts-- you'll see when you read the guide,... Do what you can, mate, but I have doubts the soil is that high in pH; if it was, you'd very likely have Fe defc. by now, as it locks out rapidly by 7.0...
--roger that on the epsoms, you're good! ... the purple streak on the stem, another hint at general underfeeding, which seems odd, if you've been running full str.; how often do you feed?
-- bulbs decay over time, as you know,..most recommendations I see say to replace MH/HPS after about a year of steady use,... high end HPS bulbs can have enough blue spec' to carry the whole grow,... T5 you can mix bulbs too, but fluoro has lousy penetration intensity,...