Ok.. here we go...

Dang I really wish you had a ppm meter, I got this problem often from using AN with water with too high PPM. AN recommends 100ppm or less, RO being perfect. I've noticed a huge difference following that. Also you said 2ml big bud per liter? I'd cut back on the BB and check water supply.
This is a quite from something I found on Google....I definitely feel like there's a lockout, not def. And it looks similar to what happened to me often over fertilizing which usually started at my water. Was 300ppm and throwing everything off with the PH perfect buffers....



Magnesium deficiency will exhibit a yellowing (which may turn brown) and interveinal chlorosis beginning in the older leaves. The older leaves will be the first to develop interveinal chlorosis. Starting at leaf margin or tip and progressing inward between the veins. Notice how the veins remain somewhat green though as can be seen in figure 15.
Notice how in figure 16 and 17 the leaves curl upwards like they're praying? They're praying for Mg! The tips may also twist.
This can be quickly resolved by watering with 1 tablespoon Epsom salts/gallon of water. Until you can correct nutrient lockout, try foliar feeding. That way the plants get all the nitrogen and Mg they need. The plants can be foliar feed at ½ teaspoon/quart of Epsom salts (first powdered and dissolved in some hot water). When mixing up soil, use 2 teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of soil.
If the starting water is above 200 ppm, that is pretty hard water, that will lock out mg with all of the calcium in the water. Either add a 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of epsom salts or lime (both will effectively reduce the lockout or invest into a reverse osmosis water filter.
Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium nitrogen. Don't overdo Mg or you'll lock up other nutrients.

May not be a MG deficiency your dealing with but it was the quickest thing I could find referencing to water source. I'm not 100% sure honestly and am only trying to their ideas around and throw out problems I've had with this same line. Specially when I'm competing i try to push them and get problems lol. How maybe this helps trip
 
Guess it would help if I slowed down and proof read. Basically I'm just throwing around ideas from what I've seen in my own garden using the same line, very finicky and can build up salts quick!!! I really hope she levels back out for you, I know how frustrating it is. Sorry I don't have a better answer trip
 
This looks all so familiar. I have the exact same thing on my HBSS's. It all started after I left for a couple days. I also use AN. PH was low 5's. I flushed and gave 1/4 strength nutes and she seems to be pulling through.
Wish I could help. Just thought I'd let you know, you're not alone, for what it's worth. Good luck Trip.
yes i actually read your thread thurs or fri before i left and came home to it! haha i just cant win sometimes... i guess only time will tell how

Dang I really wish you had a ppm meter, I got this problem often from using AN with water with too high PPM. AN recommends 100ppm or less, RO being perfect. I've noticed a huge difference following that. Also you said 2ml big bud per liter? I'd cut back on the BB and check water supply.
This is a quite from something I found on Google....I definitely feel like there's a lockout, not def. And it looks similar to what happened to me often over fertilizing which usually started at my water. Was 300ppm and throwing everything off with the PH perfect buffers....
Magnesium deficiency will exhibit a yellowing (which may turn brown) and interveinal chlorosis beginning in the older leaves. The older leaves will be the first to develop interveinal chlorosis. Starting at leaf margin or tip and progressing inward between the veins. Notice how the veins remain somewhat green though as can be seen in figure 15.
Notice how in figure 16 and 17 the leaves curl upwards like they're praying? They're praying for Mg! The tips may also twist.
This can be quickly resolved by watering with 1 tablespoon Epsom salts/gallon of water. Until you can correct nutrient lockout, try foliar feeding. That way the plants get all the nitrogen and Mg they need. The plants can be foliar feed at ½ teaspoon/quart of Epsom salts (first powdered and dissolved in some hot water). When mixing up soil, use 2 teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of soil.
If the starting water is above 200 ppm, that is pretty hard water, that will lock out mg with all of the calcium in the water. Either add a 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of epsom salts or lime (both will effectively reduce the lockout or invest into a reverse osmosis water filter.
Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium nitrogen. Don't overdo Mg or you'll lock up other nutrients.

May not be a MG deficiency your dealing with but it was the quickest thing I could find referencing to water source. I'm not 100% sure honestly and am only trying to their ideas around and throw out problems I've had with this same line. Specially when I'm competing i try to push them and get problems lol. How maybe this helps trip
yeea its def lock out the PH is steady nw after about 22 gals of water total through 2 days lol i just foliar fed AN Revive again which has calmag and some other stuff in it. see the weird thing is i have the other 2 rhinos hooked up to the same res and they are fine and budding away.. it only affected the one i let go all natural... im hoping she still makes some weight...
 
yes i actually read your thread thurs or fri before i left and came home to it! haha i just cant win sometimes... i guess only time will tell how

yeea its def lock out the PH is steady nw after about 22 gals of water total through 2 days lol i just foliar fed AN Revive again which has calmag and some other stuff in it. see the weird thing is i have the other 2 rhinos hooked up to the same res and they are fine and budding away.. it only affected the one i let go all natural... im hoping she still makes some weight...
One of my six shooters is picture perfect health wise and the other looks, smells completely different and has had all sorts of issues since midway flush. I think I striped too much of the goods out, but yeah like you said I've done everything identical and they've reacted completely different....
 
One of my six shooters is picture perfect health wise and the other looks, smells completely different and has had all sorts of issues since midway flush. I think I striped too much of the goods out, but yeah like you said I've done everything identical and they've reacted completely different....
yea but she exhibited this before the flush and stripping of everything... im thinking it has to do with the coco losing its ph buffering ability since this will be the 3rd time its been used.. and i did over feed in the 2 previous grows which is why im shocked its happening with this grow cuz im using a decent amount less nutes this go round as far as base nutes are concerned
 
yea but she exhibited this before the flush and stripping of everything... im thinking it has to do with the coco losing its ph buffering ability since this will be the 3rd time its been used.. and i did over feed in the 2 previous grows which is why im shocked its happening with this grow cuz im using a decent amount less nutes this go round as far as base nutes are concerned
That's weird, are you using their Coco nutes?
Coco coir in its natural state contains a lot of sodium ions, which cling to the coco coir like a magnet on the cation exchange sites, and is also rich in potassium. In order to make coco coir suitable for use as a growing media it must be pretreated or ‘buffered’ before use. The buffering process involves pre-soaking the coir for 12-24 hours with a buffering solution high in calcium; this displaces the sodium and balances the naturally occurring potassium. After the soaking period the media is washed with water, this removes the displaced sodium, leaving the calcium in the coir. This buffering process prevents unwanted draw down or ‘lockout’ of calcium and magnesium, and avoids sodium toxicity issues.
 
Does the treatments work?

What if a Ca/Na exchange has occured in the coco? Salt effects? Well, flushing should wash out Na salts.
I don't know how sodium acts in plants, but for mammalian cells, sodium is pretty toxic and the Na/K pump exchanges intracellular Na with K 24/7.
 
Does the treatments work?

What if a Ca/Na exchange has occured in the coco? Salt effects? Well, flushing should wash out Na salts.
I don't know how sodium acts in plants, but for mammalian cells, sodium is pretty toxic and the Na/K pump exchanges intracellular Na with K 24/7.
i believe i got the pH back under control and she is drinking again which is ALWAYS a good sign.. but i def lost a good amount of yield to this lockout.. it really has me bummed.. i almost just wanted to cut her down and start over but i forgot im in a competition lol
 
i believe i got the pH back under control and she is drinking again which is ALWAYS a good sign.. but i def lost a good amount of yield to this lockout.. it really has me bummed.. i almost just wanted to cut her down and start over but i forgot im in a competition lol
Oh...a competition plant!
That makes the situation even worse.
Agree...just getting rid of it would be the best...not worth the resources, but that isn't an option in this Comp. However, you can still get top score by documenting the rescue mission.
 
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