:smoking: Hey Nor'Eastah!

...so, they are all doing this odd spotty pattern and color fade? ...looking at the nutes, MC ( new stuff, or old BTW?), 3g/gal is about 1/2tsp (MC is about 6g/tsp), pretty mild dosing,... ditto for the Ca-Mg,... using RO, plus the coco being a Ca hog and to a lesser degree, Mg too,.... I'd say you aren't overloading things, though that happens more than folks realize! You may even be under Ca needs, if that coco is sucking it up and hasn't reached it's saturation CEC point,... And the actual source of the Ca in particular is very important because if it's CaCO3 based, the availability will be lower than with other anions compounded with it, like nitrate which is very soluble in water; CaCO3 is very pH dependent on it's relative solubility.... CaliMagic is nitrate and carbonate based, not sure about MC but likely similar....
This is where a TDS/EC reading would help,... measure the Ca-Mg ppm first, used as a base-line to see what your MC dosage is coming out to,... from what I saw with my MC run, it doesn't drive pH down that low, not like the PK boosters do.
Coco runs at lower pH than true soil, but lower pH means lower Ca availability too, relatively speaking-
>>> here's where a soil pH probe for direct in-pot pH readings would be the ticket,..

-- it would answer this question w/o all the hassle of doing a run-off test... The pickle here: because of the high coco content, running straight RO water through may, screw with the CEC some, but then you have soil in there too, presumably with a lime source in it... In straight coco, you have to make a special flushing solution to maintain the proper CEC (RO/Di water, with 150ppm Ca-Mg, plus another 150ppm nutes, pH to 6.0; pour though until pH and ppm's are close to ingoing values)... With true soil, you can use such pure water, best always with nothing that influences pH added because that will skew results, but regardless, run-off is a lousy measure of in-pot pH for true soil anyway,... that said, hold off on flushing for now, and see if upping the Ca-Mg more helps,...
Good suggestion by BII here, foliar will bypass all the "if's" going on in the root zone, plus it's the fastest way into the plant,... a few treatments should show if this is a Ca defc. or not, as symptoms are a bit ambiguous,... Half strength or label directions for foliar; use a wetting agent for sure, or a very mild soap like castile... this will make the solution coat and stick far better, and more gets in,.. spray tops and bottoms of leaves, more stomata on undersides, during lights on, when they are open and active,... better to remove from direct blasting light though until more or less dry,.. you can re-wet with RO water to re-dissolve and get a "second helping" in and remove residuals,.... try a couple rounds of this over a few days or so,..meantime the medium dosing should start helping as well,... If symptoms get worse, fast, or change, post more pics ASAP-

Make up a small batch of what's in the res' and see where that pH is for at least a starting point, going in,....