What I Was Taught.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Sideshow
  • Start date Start date
S

Sideshow

Guest
Ive read a few threads and cringe a bit when I read posts about a person PH'n water, adding / mixing their ORGANIC nutes.... then RE PHn their water....

This was my learnings.

If you are mixing chemical nutes.... stupic blue crystals or whatever chemical your using.... the plant is needing the water to absorb its nutes, as the chemical nutes do nothing to the soil for the roots to get nutes in that regards.... So PH water once the chemicals are mixed is the way to go.

However, with organics, ...PH water first, then disregard what the PH is after mixing the organics, As the organics interact with all the microbes and bacterias, etc....they balance out, the roots are hgetting nutes from the soil at that point, and water is only giving them oxygen. the nutes will begin to interact with microbes and bacteria in siol, and essentially get drawn out of waterm absorbed by soil, thus water return to PH.

Adding more acid to the mix after, actually decreases the nutes your doin...it kills off microbes, or doesnt allow them to abreak down proper because it thinks the water level or soil is too acidic...


That was how I always learned gardening veggies and roses flowers etc.
 
001.JPG
 
so what you are saying is you don't have to PH your water because the soil microbes sort it out .
yes. Think of it like this..... Organics we are trying to mimick perfect earth conditions.... so for all discriptive purpose....... Perfect rain would fall on perfect decomposing microbes, and absorb into earth that would...yadda yadda.... so...we mix perfect nutes into perfect water and pour over perfect earth we try to make...

And by PHing the water the salts kill the microbes :shrug:


Salts was involving the chemical nutes...thats why you ph water after when you mix chemical nutes....the extra salts need to be diluted? or what not out by adjusting again? Im not understanding of chemicle nutes, so thats only a hunch.

With what I was taught, adding more acid to water after mixing organics kills some microbes
 
the life ofcourse. but yet,the materials as well help to buffer the medium correctly. an even neutral PH(potential Hydrogen) will occur if the right level or SOME level are in the soil. I mentioned this in my TLO thread which is way to rough for most LOL but yeah here is a soil buffering capacity write up I found some time back now.

Buffering capacity of soils:

Definition
Buffer capacity of soil is defined as a soil’s ability to maintain a constant pH level during action on it by an acidifier or alkalescent agent. A soil, considered a mixture of buffered systems, contains components, which have the ability to neutralize acids by bonding H+ ions as well as bases by the release of hydrogen ions (Federer and Hornbeck, 1985). The effectiveness of soil buffering systems depends on numerous physical, chemical, and biological properties of soils.
Buffer capacity
A buffer solution is an aqueous solution consisting of a mixture of a weak acid and its conjugate base (HA + A–) or a weak base and its conjugate acid (B + BH+). It has the property that the pH of the solution changes very little when a small amount of acid or base is added to it because of the following reactions: ...


What does "soil buffering" mean?


Soil buffering is the ability of the soil to stop nutrient or pH changes by absorption. For soils, it is the capability of absorbing nutrients and also releasing them (cation exchange capacity). Humic acids and clay minerals have good buffer qualities.


http://www.isafarmnet.com/ResearchPublications/06Nconf/E1.pdf

https://www.autoflower.org/threads/liming-amendments-cc.33323/

Buffer Capacity

Buffer capacity quantifies the ability of a solution to resist changes in pH by either absorbing or desorbing H+ and OH- ions. When an acid or base is added to a buffer system, the effect on pH change can be large or small, depending on both the initial pH and the capacity of the buffer to resist change in pH. Buffer capacity (β) is defined as the moles of an acid or base necessary to change the pH of a solution by 1, divided by the pH change and the volume of buffer in liters; it is a unitless number. A buffer resists changes in pH due to the addition of an acid or base though consumption of the buffer. As long as the buffer has not been completely reacted, the pH will not change drastically. The pH change will increase (or decrease) more drastically as the buffer is depleted: it becomes less resistant to change.

Calculating Buffer Capacity
Buffer capacity is determined through a titration, a technique in which a known volume and concentration of a base or acid is added to the analyte of unknown concentration (Figure 2). In the analysis performed by the Chemistry 221 class, a PASCO Xplorer GLX data logger with a pH electrode was used to monitor the change in pH. When determining buffer capacity through a titration experiment, the flat region of the titration curve before the equivalence point is the buffer region (Figure 3). Past the buffer region, pH changes drastically near the equivalence point. In a laboratory environment, a buffer solution can be created by mixing a weak acid with its conjugate base. The ions naturally present in rivers are buffering components that allow the pH of the water to remain stable over time. Buffer capacity of river water is very important, usually necessitating narrow pH ranges that are critical to the survival of most organisms. If the buffer capacity of river water is too small or the pH of the water is outside its buffer range, it can be lethal to the river’s ecosystem. According to Van Vooren, buffer capacity can be used in the analysis of water samples in order to determine the water quality (2001).

Summary
Buffer capacity is a quantitative measure of resistance to pH change upon the addition of H+ or OH- ions. It is important for river water to maintain a stable pH such that the local ecosystems are preserved in order to keep Columbus flourishing.

http://www.clemson.edu/sera6/Lime buffer capacity 9-23-04.htm

http://pods.dasnr.okstate.edu/docushare/dsweb/Get/Document-2643/PSS-2229-2013.pdf

https://www.ctahr.hawaii.edu/mauisoil/c_acidity.aspx
 
I use water from my de humidifier put it in a bucket,and water with it .I don,t ph my water ever.I could prolly use my tap water but to many salts.It would prolly be ok just got used to that Peace
 
Back
Top