Don't give up!!! Those girls will grow up and you will smoke them. It's strange how a little girl can get you sooooo depressed. I'm a Rookie. I've had a bunch of screw ups, but I almost all-ways managed to get some smoke, even on some of my worst grows. Your in good hands now, listen to the smart ones--keep showing pics and your girls will be OK. Good Luck---
Nxte, will be good to see the special mix do it's wicked "Dutch" stuff !!............. after translocation of a chosen one, of the 4, into the gold label.....
One other thing, pyrithium in the "mite treatment", is just a sticky solution, "Neem Oil" that holds the adults still untill death, around 5 days.........
But dose not kill the juveniles, larvae, or the eggs laid, during the 30 day cycle of the mite (Red, white or other)..... There is only one treatment that will, 'Kill" all stages of the mite life cycle......... one drop in 1ltr +
Harkers "Harkamectin".............. it is used to kill same mite family, on fancy wild foul .......... ALR
Addendum;
For me, aquapot, aquavalve, aquatrays combi, inc gold label special mix........
best thing since sliced bread !! zero hassle, zero issue, zero deffs, maxi crop, automated !! i do use Greenair's "genesis" Mush though to be fair
You may see iether a high Ph 7.5 or above, or a low Ph 5.1 or less, from your new cocco run off Ph test, using warm water @Ph6.............. iether though are bad, you wont find it at 6.5 for sure, remember i said that !! ALR
.... well, that needs to be fixed, no working pH meter makes it impossible to test in-pot pH even through the crude run-off method,... otherwise, a soil pH probe like the Accurate 8 is a solid tool to have, I love mine and it's indispensable IMO..... Since you're in coco, it's needs to run about 6.0pH,... what amount of run-off are you getting each watering? Have you read up on how to run coco? it cannot be treated like a true soil, it will bite you in the ass if you do,... in some ways, it's closer to hydro'... coco should be feed weakly, often 9daily in some cases), the pH and TDS/EC taken going in and coming out to make sure you aren't getting a nute salt build-up problem; odd as it sounds, never water alone in coco, it can screw up the whole CEC balance (cation exchange capacity) .. this has to do with coco's odd CEC properties, as mention above, coco is a Ca hog (Mg to a lesser extent), and will bind it to itself keeping from the plant until it's sated, and then it does the give-and-take thing readily,... Coco breathe very well, so overwatering is more difficult vs soils, it's why it can be feed so often.... That said, and if you haven't done all this, then a build-up issue is definitely in play here, but with no TDS/EC meter, again we're stuck with advising further,... you can flsuh the pot, but you can't do it with water alone, the solution has to be specific for this.. RO/Di water, pH to 6.0, with 150ppm Ca-Mg plus 150ppm nutes; pour through enough to get therun-off values close to inputs........lowers are getting tapped out for N, some of which is normal during bloom, but this is more than it should be... But first I think you need to check that in-pot pH at this point, if it's too acidic in there, that can start to lock out P, and S (makes the whole plant pale, tops worst) and adding more will make matters worse,... problem is how to do that, with no pH soil probe... Are you adjusting the feeds before watering in, and adding Ca-Mg first before anything else? Oh, just saw the pH meter problem
