Dutch Passion Bob's Dutch Passion Grow - Auto Night Queen and Auto White Widow do Karel's BioTabs...

Gorgeous plants, killer update.
Thanks mate :cheers:

And almost outdoor season....
Oh yeah!!! :woohoo:
Can't wait myself. Have so much planned for this year...
  • Gonna run the 'test' seeds from Dutch Passion. (greenhouse)
  • Have some Barneys coming my way. (greenhouse)
  • Have some Sawney Bean coming my way (greenhouse)
  • Want to do a seedrun with the two Port & Stilton S1 seeds I still have as not to run out of that strain. (indoor tent)
  • Wanted to do a pheno hunt with a cross I made and add to that the P&S (greenhouse)
  • There will most certainly be contests I want to join
So many plans, so little time. Will have to plan every grow accordingly and not use to big pots or I'll have to burn my surplus again...:shrug:
Got loads of cleaning to do before I can kick off the season in the greenhouse, but I still have time to postpone it a couple of times :coffee2:
Also have to think what 'other' greens I'll be growing in the greenhouse...:wall:
 
Like I said...So many plans, so little time and forgot to mention...I'm lazy :shrug:
Luckily this grow is so suited for my lifestyle! Except for defoliating the last days and making sure the watertank gets topped up the only thing I can do is take pictures for ya guys/gals. So that's what I've been doing for ya!! :coffee:


Let's begin with some technical aspects of this grow. Humidity is something that needs to be monitored on a bi-daily basis. The temperature is something I have no complaints about, as I have this under control for now.
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I turned the light to it's maximum, probably ain't that good for the life expectancy of the device, but I need the heat to keep the tent warm.
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The extraction fan is running at about 25% going by the sound it makes. The know doesn't behave direct proportional to where it is on the scale. It reacts exponential. Behind the knob is a potmeter and this explains why, but that's ok. I just need to move the knob in very small increments up or down.
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This light is amazing for it's prize... Might do an upgrade to a FC-E3000 which will double the wattage draw, but then have a very special setup...Think vertical :biggrin:
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I love this White Widow. The smell is amazing... I was adjusting the fan and while doing that I had to open the door of the tent and every time I did that...Oh man!! :cooldance:
Auto White Widow - day 31
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Side shot from my lady White...
Auto White Widow - day 31
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Detailed shot of the STS branch. She got a second dose today, now wait 5 days and dose again, then reapply a last time and stop.
Guaranteed pollen within two weeks which is viable :thumbsup:
Auto White Widow - day 31
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Close-up of the first femal flowers...
Auto White Widow - day 31
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Looking at this picture, still some shoots to remove and defoliating to be done...
Auto White Widow - day 31
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Auto White Widow - day 31
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This Night Queen is out of control. Can't reach her and so many shoots I don't know which to remove and which to keep. It's tomato time all over again. :wall:
Auto Night Queen n°1 - day 31
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If you look at both younger Night Queens it seems as if they are more vigorous then the older one as they almost are as big as their older sister...
Auto Night Queen n°1 - day 31
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I did some first defoliating on this one. Removed the two single leaves on the bottom. And the two biggest fan leaves which were blocking light to underlying shoots.
Auto Night Queen n°2 - day 21
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Auto Night Queen n°2 - day 21
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Only did some leaf tucking on this one. Didn't want to take away all her solar panels :thumbsup:
Auto Night Queen n°3 - day 21
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As you might have noticed, there weren't any time lapses after each plant. Well, gonna put them back here where they belong. For the White Widow and Night Queen n°1 you'll have to watch the overview from my other thread. But I do have two zoomed in versions from Night Queen n°2 and n°3. Enjoy :thanks:





Regards,

Bob :toke:
 
Hey Bob,

Looking good! :thumbsup:

Regarding the (fan)leaves, you can also take a scissor and cut away parts of the leafs that might be close to the tent sides or overlapping certain budsites or parts of another plant. This way you don't have to take away all of the previous solar panels but still create a more open canopy.

About the branch you use STS on, aren't you afraid all of the buds get seeded? :nono:

What is your plan with this branch?

Keep them green mate! Those young Auto Night Queen are doing quite well indeed :headbang:
 
Regarding the (fan)leaves, you can also take a scissor and cut away parts of the leafs that might be close to the tent sides or overlapping certain budsites or parts of another plant. This way you don't have to take away all of the previous solar panels but still create a more open canopy.
Thanks for the tip, didn't know you could do that!! :thumbsup:

About the branch you use STS on, aren't you afraid all of the buds get seeded? :nono:
Not really no, When the branch starts producing male flowers I remove it from the tent and put it somewhere as far away as possible in a glass of water with a couple of drop H2O2. The leaves on that branch haven't been removed so to give the branch in the future the necessary sugars to survive and finish the pollen.

What is your plan with this branch?
I'll probably dust another smaller branch of the White Widow and do a cross pollination to a branch of one of the younger Night Queens.
Of course if something spectacular comes out of this I'll return you guys the favor and send some seeds back if you like :cheers:
 
This one is for @Phyter... :bighug:
Got the leftover of the Rotblock and made up a sprayer this morning. Later today I'll be spraying the entire tent.
I feel I have enough powder for this grow, but we need to make a deal to get some over here for when the greenhouse season starts buddy.
Of course I'm more then willing to pay for it this time :d5:
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no sooner said than done...The plants got a dose of the Rotblock. All sides, top/bottom, nodes and even the top layer of the soil got drenched.
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After the drench I turned the extraction fan off and let the humidity rise to about 80%, it did spike a moment to 90%, but went back to around 80%. There I let it sit for a couple of hours. I did set an alarm on my Blynk app for when the temperature gets above 29°C and that's when I shot back in action.
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I went to the tent and saw that the Rotblock had done it's thing. Everywhere there are now white dots, which are actually nothing more then the carrier for the mycelium that's the key ingredient for the Rotblock. The white dot's are silica which with a light wipe comes off the leaves like nothing, but it is a nice way of seeing where you applied and where the drops actually congealed.
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Normally I resize to 1080x1920, but on these pictures I didn't so you guys/gals can zoom in and see the white dot's. They are everywhere!!! :drunks:
It did take me about an hour to get all the values back to normal. We're having 25.9°C / 77°F and a humidity of 65%. :cooldance:
1648590912572_small.jpg


Now wait until next week and reapply.
Question for @Phyter, How long can the made solution be kept?
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Regards,

Bob :toke:
 
Thanks for the tip, didn't know you could do that!! :thumbsup:


Not really no, When the branch starts producing male flowers I remove it from the tent and put it somewhere as far away as possible in a glass of water with a couple of drop H2O2. The leaves on that branch haven't been removed so to give the branch in the future the necessary sugars to survive and finish the pollen.


I'll probably dust another smaller branch of the White Widow and do a cross pollination to a branch of one of the younger Night Queens.
Of course if something spectacular comes out of this I'll return you guys the favor and send some seeds back if you like :cheers:

Haha interesting approach and a first time for me to see it like this :hump: to me it sounds a bit risky though, pollen can be a real bitch! (or a gift from heaven depending the way you look at it) :rofl:

You take the branch off before the pollen sacks start to open? and keeping it in a glass of water (without having roots) is enough to keep her alive for a certain amount of time and for the sacks to open and spread pollen as they usually would?

no sooner said than done...The plants got a dose of the Rotblock. All sides, top/bottom, nodes and even the top layer of the soil got drenched.
View attachment 1438355

View attachment 1438357

View attachment 1438358

View attachment 1438359

After the drench I turned the extraction fan off and let the humidity rise to about 80%, it did spike a moment to 90%, but went back to around 80%. There I let it sit for a couple of hours. I did set an alarm on my Blynk app for when the temperature gets above 29°C and that's when I shot back in action.
View attachment 1438360

I went to the tent and saw that the Rotblock had done it's thing. Everywhere there are now white dots, which are actually nothing more then the carrier for the mycelium that's the key ingredient for the Rotblock. The white dot's are silica which with a light wipe comes off the leaves like nothing, but it is a nice way of seeing where you applied and where the drops actually congealed.
View attachment 1438361

Normally I resize to 1080x1920, but on these pictures I didn't so you guys/gals can zoom in and see the white dot's. They are everywhere!!! :drunks:
It did take me about an hour to get all the values back to normal. We're having 25.9°C / 77°F and a humidity of 65%. :cooldance:
View attachment 1438362

Now wait until next week and reapply.
Question for @Phyter, How long can the made solution be kept?
View attachment 1438363



Regards,

Bob :toke:

Those white spots look crazy! You only use the rotblock because of the high humidity?

One thing that caught my attention mate, is that I see spots (yellow/brown spots) and yellowing of the top leafs (and clawing), especially with your biggest plant the Auto White Widow, which is closest to the light. I suspect early signs of light burn.

I wanted to ask you before about the Mars hydro light, how many watts does it have on full power and whats the efficiency of the module?

I have a feeling that the DLI (Daily Light Integral) becomes too high for them to fully absorb and process all the photons that are thrown at them, resulting in lightburn and stress. Using a strong LED light in a 60x60cm grow tent, and having it on 18/6 or 20/4 can cause issues. Something I thought to recognize in your previous grow as well. That was more difficult to know for sure, because you had quite some (nutrient) issues there too I think.

I would personally put the light higher, or even better, lower the wattage. I don't think it is needed to use it on 100% with auto's. It is probably overkill, and a waste of energy/money too. I've seen my fair share of early light burn and these are definitely some signs. Thought to share it with you before it becomes any worse.
 
Haha interesting approach and a first time for me to see it like this :hump: to me it sounds a bit risky though, pollen can be a real bitch! (or a gift from heaven depending the way you look at it) :rofl:

You take the branch off before the pollen sacks start to open? and keeping it in a glass of water (without having roots) is enough to keep her alive for a certain amount of time and for the sacks to open and spread pollen as they usually would?



Those white spots look crazy! You only use the rotblock because of the high humidity?

One thing that caught my attention mate, is that I see spots (yellow/brown spots) and yellowing of the top leafs (and clawing), especially with your biggest plant the Auto White Widow, which is closest to the light. I suspect early signs of light burn.

I wanted to ask you before about the Mars hydro light, how many watts does it have on full power and whats the efficiency of the module?

I have a feeling that the DLI (Daily Light Integral) becomes too high for them to fully absorb and process all the photons that are thrown at them, resulting in lightburn and stress. Using a strong LED light in a 60x60cm grow tent, and having it on 18/6 or 20/4 can cause issues. Something I thought to recognize in your previous grow as well. That was more difficult to know for sure, because you had quite some (nutrient) issues there too I think.

I would personally put the light higher, or even better, lower the wattage. I don't think it is needed to use it on 100% with auto's. It is probably overkill, and a waste of energy/money too. I've seen my fair share of early light burn and these are definitely some signs. Thought to share it with you before it becomes any worse.
Cheers Antonio:d5:

And good to see you found Bob to grow out some DP strains for you, he always provides what we're looking for!:pass:
 
Haha interesting approach and a first time for me to see it like this :hump: to me it sounds a bit risky though, pollen can be a real bitch! (or a gift from heaven depending the way you look at it) :rofl:

You take the branch off before the pollen sacks start to open? and keeping it in a glass of water (without having roots) is enough to keep her alive for a certain amount of time and for the sacks to open and spread pollen as they usually would?
I've done it that way for several seasons. Cut the branch --> damage the outer layer of the first 2,5cm --> put into glas of tapwater (200ml and add 2ml 12% H2O2. It starts to bubble at first, because of the H202reacting, but by doing that create a sterile environment for the branch to sit in.


Those white spots look crazy! You only use the rotblock because of the high humidity?
Yeah, they do don't they. The first time I used it last summer I almost had an heart attack when I visited the greenhouse next day. But it's normal :thumbsup:


One thing that caught my attention mate, is that I see spots (yellow/brown spots) and yellowing of the top leafs (and clawing), especially with your biggest plant the Auto White Widow, which is closest to the light. I suspect early signs of light burn.

I wanted to ask you before about the Mars hydro light, how many watts does it have on full power and whats the efficiency of the module?
It's a TS-1000 and uses 150W real draw from the wall. PPE = 2.3umol/J. So yeah it is a very good light for the surface area of my tent and should probably not be run at 100%


I would personally put the light higher, or even better, lower the wattage.
Yeah, the White Widow is to close to the light. But I can't get It higher... I did turn the dial back to 75%. I'll keep an eye on the temperature inside the tent.
I want to thank you again for all the helpful advice you're giving me :d5:
If you're in the Maastricht store I'm sure to stop by next time I'm in town and I'll buy ya a drink :cheers:
 
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