Grow Mediums Coco 2 ways AK48 & Swiss Cheese

Halfway point...AK48 is hungry...a first for me in simple coco...sativa-like qualities dominant. The cheeze is typical hybrid with indica dominance. The hydro-coco-drip has run non-stop since week 2. Look back in this journal at the stalk pic with my Zippo...
Thanx fer lookin in...
 

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Sorry. Blanton's single barrel coupled w/jock 8 month cure...
Ohhhhhh...
 
Damn. I forgot to wrap or cover water lines in hydro. Algae and snots build up in the lines and wreak havoc with pH and nutes. Gotta do a complete scrub for second half of grow. Time to get to work...
The hoses are supposed to be UV proof but the HID & LED lamps are pretty intense
 
Just a little reminder for anyone who might run a hydroponic system:


The more water in your rez, the easier it is to control your pH. Let me be clear:
The more water in your rez, the easier it is to control your pH. In my experience (when mixing a fresh nutrient solution) the pH slowly begins to rise...for 12 to 24 hours...then it will begin to drop. There's no harm in letting the pH get up to 7.5, slowly. There's no harm in letting it SLOWLY drop as well...the roots will benefit from the full gamut of nutrient availability. This phenomenon is also an opportunity to add some of the more alkaline extras, such as SILICONE, to stabilize the pH. As long as it's dropping, add trace amounts of 'extras' instead of pH UP. You will be rewarded for your attention to detail!

I'm using 6 gallons total:
2 gallons in the rez where the roots reside
4 Gallons in the recirculating rez.
The solution is constantly moving and aerating at every opportunity

:snow1::snow2: plus
download (13).jpg
equals :growing:
 
Hope I can remember this when the time comes...an excerpt from Ed Rosenthal's Mari Growers Handbook, the section on LIGHT:

METAL HALIDES & ULTRAVIOLET LIGHT (UV)
UV light is composed of spectrums beyond blue that are invisible to ;humans but are visible to many animals. UV light is divided into three bands - UVA, UVB and UVC. UVB is critical to the development of THC. The potency of marijuana is dependant on the amount of UVB light it receives. Metal halides emit UV light and can be used for this purpose.

Even if plants are being grown under HPS lamps, potency - that is THC content - WILL INCREASE SIGNIFICANTLY if they are replaced with metal Halides during the last two weeks of flowering. (My note: HERE'S THE CATCH). Just be aware that the protective glass in air-cooled MH fixtures absorbs UV light before it gets to your garden. So the only way to benefit from the UV output is to REMOVE THE GLASS and take other steps to cool the light.

Looks like I'll be re-installing the window A/C unit in the tent!
Someone, PLEASE REMIND ME TO GIVE THIS A SHOT!
 
Hope I can remember this when the time comes...an excerpt from Ed Rosenthal's Mari Growers Handbook, the section on LIGHT:

METAL HALIDES & ULTRAVIOLET LIGHT (UV)
UV light is composed of spectrums beyond blue that are invisible to ;humans but are visible to many animals. UV light is divided into three bands - UVA, UVB and UVC. UVB is critical to the development of THC. The potency of marijuana is dependant on the amount of UVB light it receives. Metal halides emit UV light and can be used for this purpose.

Even if plants are being grown under HPS lamps, potency - that is THC content - WILL INCREASE SIGNIFICANTLY if they are replaced with metal Halides during the last two weeks of flowering. (My note: HERE'S THE CATCH). Just be aware that the protective glass in air-cooled MH fixtures absorbs UV light before it gets to your garden. So the only way to benefit from the UV output is to REMOVE THE GLASS and take other steps to cool the light.

Looks like I'll be re-installing the window A/C unit in the tent!
Someone, PLEASE REMIND ME TO GIVE THIS A SHOT!
cheers for the rep slap dude have you thought about adding a reptile bulb http://www.redearslider.com/light_sources.html been thinking of going that way myself :pass:
 
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