Yeah Pete I agree with you getting them settled in to there final home and I believe the reason for the yellowing of the cotlyeon leafs are because there hungry as that's there first food source
Lighting Pete's SolarSpec 150s vs Cheese XXL
- Thread starter Discretepete2676
- Start date
Looking cool what make and model is it
It's a brand new light from Amare Called the SE300...I'm the first to have it from what they said.
Aw sweet bro what strength is it I'm guessing 300 w due to the name
OK guys so tonight was the big transplant night....I did do a couple things different than I originally planned. Instead of 5 gal fabric pots I used 3gal plastic. Decided to go down a size too help maintain from getting too crazy big. I also decided instead of promix HP I will b doing this grow in sunshine advanced ultra coir. A coco/peat/perlite mix. Very airy with good drainage capabilities. I used it straight out of the bag. I'm having really good results with it and a heisenberg special. I'm thinking this could be the soil I move forward with ultimately as a grower for my synthetic stuff,
dropping the use of promix HP. Nothing against it or bad to say I will add. So the transplant went good overall. Nice and smooth. I got a liter of RO water and added 1ml of calimagic (1-0-0) cal. 5%. Mag. 1.5% iron I believe is .5%. Recently I tried general organics calmag+ but I seem to have achieved better results using the calimagic. After adding the calimagic I added 1ml of sensi grow A and 1ml of sensi grow b. I topped it off with 1ml voodoo juice and after the transplant hit each with 500ml of the feed. Here's some pictures after transplant. Today is day 13. The light is on veg spectrum only using 100w actual draw and are 30" off the top of the girls. I will let them grow another 6 inches until they are 24" away and than I will b using full spectrum over both plants at 150w. As they get bigger everything will b pushed aside and moved into my 4X4, and if they get as big as I hope each will have its own 150w solar spec to itself....I think I can officially say we are about to b off to the races!
Yeah they were definitely a little constricted. Should be booming in a week! Lol
Thanks Bailey, I think I those over pass going to turn out good. Going to check on them in a few minutes and see how they took over night
AutoFox
I am I can I will
Hey Pete I'm just catching up to this thread. Got some info that may be helpful it's quite a bit of info to read but it will be a good read. Here it go's
THE IMPORTANCE OF P
Elements deemed as essential plant nutrients are classified as such due to the fact that a plant cannot properly progress through its normal growth and reproduction cycle without them. Over the last hundred plus years, scientists have studied plant growth and behavior and have found 17 elements to be the most important to plant growth. In the absence of any one of these elements, a plant will not grow and develop to its full potential. The essential elements are separated into groups based upon the level of importance they play in plant development. The elements termed macronutrients are the most important because the plant requires them at higher amounts or cannot perform important developmental processes without them. Amongst these essential elemental plant nutrients is an element, a macronutrient, called phosphorus (P).
Phosphorus plays many key functional roles in plant development, including: encouraging root formation and growth, increasing flower and fruit formation, maintaining quality of seed development and enhancing resistance to disease. In essence, phosphorus is essential for the overall health and strength of all plants. Phosphorus is a crucial component in the production of nucleic acids DNA (deoxyribonucleic acid- the “map” of the genetic code every cell needs to develop) and RNA (ribonucleic acid – used to read and interpret the “map”) because the chains of these substances are linked together by phosphorus bonds. Not only does it play important roles in the structural development of a plant, it also has a hand in the conversion of biochemical reactions within a plant. Most notably, the role it plays in photosynthesis and the production of ATP. ATP or adenosine triphosphate is the chemical structure that provides the energy allowing for numerous other chemical reactions within a plant to occur. Through photosynthesis, a plant harnesses the energy of light in the presence of chlorophyll to combine water and carbon dioxide into simple carbohydrates or sugars. The residual energy is then held in the ATP and distributed throughout the plant as needed. It is almost like charging a battery: the energy is harnessed, stored and distributed accordingly. The energy in ATP is highly mobile within a plant and is concentrated mostly in new leaves and growth.
Plant available phosphorus exists in the soil solution as the orthophosphate anions H2PO4– (dihydrogen phosphate) and HPO42– (monohydrogen phosphate). Since orthophosphates are negatively charged ions, they are not attracted by a soil’s cation exchange capacity. However, they do still interact quite strongly with iron (Fe), aluminum (Al) and calcium (Ca) cations in the soil, which create products that are insoluble and unavailable to a plant’s roots. Phosphorus availability is directly affected by the soil/rooting media pH, with maximum availability occurring between a pH range of 6.0 to 7.0. Plant roots uptake orthophosphate ions when they come into contact with them in a soil solution. Roots with heavy production of lateral root hairs have a significantly increased level of potential phosphorus uptake. Mycorrhizae fungi can have a dramatic affect on the roots’ ability to unlock and absorb phosphorus in the soil or rooting media. Soils with cool temperatures and low moisture can significantly reduce the roots’ ability to uptake phosphate ions and can possibly lead to a phosphorus deficiency within the plant. Phosphorus is required by a plant in relatively small amounts vs. the other macronutrients nitrogen (N) and potassium (K). However, when the levels reach a critically low state and deficiencies occur, plant growth is very much affected.
Phosphorus deficiency can be more difficult to diagnose compared to deficiencies of nitrogen (N) and potassium (K) because the symptoms are often much less obvious to the naked eye. Early detection is complicated by the fact that a deficiency may present itself in the form of a slowly developing plant that will looked stunted in its growth. Phosphorus deficient plants will be slow to mature and are often mistaken for much younger, healthy plants. Some plant species, including, tomatoes, corn and members of the brassica family, will develop a purplish coloring to the stems and under side of the leaves. This symptom will often occur in the older growth first as phosphorus is mobile within a plant (meaning it can be translocated to the newest developing growth where it is most needed). Phosphorus deficiency can come as a result of insufficient plant available phosphorus in the soil or rooting media. It can also occur due to soil conditions that are too cold to facilitate uptake by the plant. When phosphorus levels reach an excessive point within a plant, it may show up as a deficiency of the micronutrients iron (Fe), zinc (Zn) or even cobalt (Co). Excess phosphorus can also lead to a disruption of a plant’s normal metabolism.
Sources of phosphorus, i.e. phosphate, fertilizers range from organic to inorganic. Soils that are high in organic matter contain higher levels of organic phosphorus from materials like residual plant residues, manures or composts and dead microbial tissues. Commercially organic phosphate fertilizers include bone meal and different varieties of composted manure, such as poultry manure and colloidal phosphate. Inorganic phosphate fertilizers are manufactured from a material called rock phosphate that is mined and subsequently processed into products that contain a higher concentration of phosphate. These products include superphosphate, monoammonium phosphate (MAP) and diammonium phosphate (DAP). Fertilizers sold commercially, such as hydroponic fertilizers, usually utilize one of these forms and mix them together with water and other elemental nutrients to create the easy to use liquid concentrate fertilizers that we all enjoy. Keep in mind when buying a phosphate fertilizer, plants generally require much less phosphorus compared to nitrogen (N) and potassium (K), so follow directions carefully and be sure to not over do it. Also, make sure that phosphorus does not leach from a soil. It has the tendency to build up over time, as it has in much of our farmlands. Outdoor soil growers may find it beneficial to have their soil tested prior to any phosphorus fertilizer application.
Phosphorus and the orthophosphate anions are touchier and can behave differently than other elements in the soil and in solution. Paying careful attention to both soil and environmental conditions can help a grower receive the maximum rate of return from both fertilizer and produce. And remember, especially when it comes to phosphorus, it isn’t only how much is applied that matters, but the timing and the placement as wel
Next
The natural world is built upon a system of reliance. Nearly every living creature and organism on earth relies on others within its ecosystem to perform certain evolutionarily driven tasks that help fuel the natural progression of life.
A coyote hunts down and kills a rabbit. After the coyote consumes its fill of flesh and protein, it leaves the carcass behind and moves on. Though the coyote has discarded what remains of the dead rabbit, it is not the end of the story. It is actually just the beginning: a forward to the complex story of natural decomposition. As the rabbit carcass sits, it will begin to attract smaller animals and insects that will continue to break down what remains including bones, tendons, vascular tissues and proteins. This decomposition continues all the way down to the smallest, microscopic organisms in the soil that consume the last of the deceased rabbit’s organic matter. Just as many animals, insects, and soil microbes have relied on the consumption of the rabbit to obtain vital nutrients for survival, plants rely on those tiny soil microbes to further break down organic matter. This breakdown eventually improves soil fertility by converting the organic matter into an elemental ion form, which is readily taken in by the roots of a needy plant. The following is a brief overview of two soil microbes that can directly affect the growth of a plant, soil bacteria and fungi.
Bacteria are the most populous microorganism found in healthy soils. These tiny, single-celled creatures are microscopic in size and generally anywhere from 300,000 to 500,000 of them can fit into a period at the end of a sentence. Bacteria are the oldest, most primitive forms of life and come in three styles or shapes: spiral, coccus (oval) and bacillus (rod-shaped). All types are active in the soil. In nature, bacteria serve as one of the main decomposers of organic matter, second only to fungi. This makes them a vital member of the soil food web. By decomposing plant and animal materials, the bacteria in turn ingests organic carbon compounds, such as nitrogen and any other elemental nutrients present. The nutrients are then held or immobilized within the bacteria to be released when the bacteria itself dies. The process in which the nutrients are converted and released in plant accessible forms is called mineralization.
A favorite food source for soil bacteria is fresh, young plant material, or green matter, which the bacteria can easily break down because of its high sugar content. Older plant material (brown matter) contains more complex organic carbon compounds that require initial decomposition by other organisms before bacteria can benefit. The green matter they consume contains the carbohydrate cellulose, which is comprised of chains of carbon-based glucose. Half of a plant’s mass is made up of cellulose, so bacteria have a plentiful food source when they colonize the soil near it. Another popular food source that bacteria are attracted to is root exudates. Because of this, large numbers of bacteria will populate a plant’s rhizosphere, where they will break down organic matter and help feed the plant.
A main element that bacteria help make available from organic matter is nitrogen (N). Through decomposition, specialized bacteria (Bacillus included) have the ability to change the amino acids found in the organic material into ammonia in a process termed ammonification. Plants have the ability to take in nitrogen from ammonia in the form of ammonium nitrogen. Furthermore, other specialized bacteria (Nitrosomonas included) can convert the ammonia to nitrite, which in turn is oxidized by nitrite-oxidizing bacteria (Nitrobacter included). This oxidation finally converts the nitrite into the nitrate form of nitrogen, a form that is readily taken in by a plants root. This transformation is collectively referred to as part of the nitrogen cycle, in which bacteria play a crucial role. Bacteria will be found in larger numbers, in comparison to fungi, in gardens or fields that are tilled on a regular seasonal basis. This is because fungi are much more delicate and need more time in an undisturbed soil to grow and populate.
Fungi are usually not as numerous as bacteria in the soil, mainly because of their size. However, their numbers can still be rather high given the right conditions. Like bacteria, they too play an important role in the decomposition of organic matter and the recycling of nutrients in the soil food web. Though larger in size than bacteria, fungi are still microscopic cells. They grow in long hair-like structures called hyphae, which join together and form mycelium that can colonize the roots of a plant.
The visible part of fungi is the mushroom, which is the fruiting/flowering body that contains the spores for reproduction. A big difference between bacteria and fungi is the fact that fungi not only decompose cellulose (bacteria’s main food source), but they can also decompose more complex plant tissues such as lignin and pectin. Some fungi possess particular enzymes that can digest or breakdown the organic matter, immobilizing the nutrients within the soil. This initial decomposition of complex organic matter makes it possible for smaller organisms like bacteria to feed from it as well.
When fungal hyphae grow in length, they have the ability to sort of traverse the surrounding soil in search of more organic matter to consume. The same cannot be said about bacteria, which are more or less immobile in the soil. In nature, fungi are heavy consumers of organic matter such as dead leaves, plants and animal material. Without fungi and its ability to effectively decompose and recycle these materials, they would just continue to accumulate on the forest floor.
Some fungi even have the ability to form symbiotic relationships with the roots of vascular plants in an association that is termed mycorrhiza. The mycorrhizal relationship is one that is mutually beneficial to both the plant and the fungi. After colonizing the roots, the fungi receive a steady and direct supply of carbohydrates, such as glucose and sucrose, which are translocated from the leaves of the plants to the roots. In turn, the plant receives elemental nutrient ions that its own roots, for a variety of reasons, may not be able to uptake. The fungal hyphae have the ability to access these hard to reach nutrients, such as the phosphate ion, and deliver them directly to the roots.
Plant roots that are colonized by mycorriza fungi greatly benefit from the funguses ability to enhance and expand the surface area and reach of the original root structure. As was eluded earlier, fungi are slower growing and more delicate than their bacterial counter parts and they thrive in a soil that is relatively undisturbed, such as no-till and permiculture gardens. As they live and work on decomposing organic matter, fungi also release nitrogen in the ammonium form, which given the presence of specialized bacteria, can be converted to nitrate in two steps.
Outdoor soil growers that practice the organic method of gardening have been benefiting from, or relying on, the presence of soil microbes in their garden (many without even knowing). An important aspect to remember when discussing these tiny, living creatures in our gardens is the fact that every living creature requires a food/energy source to survive and reproduce. Soil microbes feed and obtain energy from the organic matter in the soil. Organic gardening methods are based upon this very principle. Most organic fertilizers and amendments are in a form where they must be further decomposed before they will be of any benefit to the plant. The microbes feed on this organic matter, breaking the complex carbon bonds and, for lack of a better word, release the elemental nutrients help within the bond. However, if the soil does not contain enough organic matter for microbes to feed sufficiently, their numbers will undoubtedly be lower and they will likely congregate within a plants rhizosphere. They will then consume any root exudates and dead root cells that they can.
Outdoor soil gardeners are not the only growers that can benefit from microbes in the soil. Both outdoor and indoor container growers can as well. The growers that utilize an organic soil-less potting mix and some form of organic fertilizer, be it liquid or granular, stand to benefit greatly from the inoculation of beneficial microbes to the rooting media. A majority of organic fertilizers contain small amounts of elemental nutrients that are readily available to plant roots, but most of the nutrients will still be trapped within a carbon bond. The addition of soil microbes to the rooting medium will help the grower obtain a higher level of soil fertility and plant development.
Soil microbes have also been shown to help water retention and disease suppression within the root zone. I personally do not recommend the addition of beneficial microbes or any potentially living biological to traditional hydroponic growing systems; especially, those that incorporate an inert substrate like perlite or rockwool as a growing medium. These systems usually utilize inorganic fertilizer sources that are designed for immediate uptake by the roots. Without a proper source of organic matter for them to feed from, most will likely never inoculate or die from starvation. Those that do survive will likely gather within the rhizosphere where they could potentially cause more harm than good, especially if the conditions in the root zone become anerobic or lacking in oxygen.
As natural evolution has progressed in our world, it has embraced both competition and reliance as a way to cycle energy and nutrition throughout the land, sea, and sky. The microorganisms in the soil and the plants we grow are constantly involved in an often mutually beneficial game of give and take. And it is this reliance they have developed with on another that keeps life complex and perpetual.
Wait there's more
So, here’s the scenario. It’s over half way through the growing season and you’re looking over your garden with the pride and adoration that comes from all the hard work you put into it. You lovingly and painstakingly planned and planted, then lovingly and painstakingly pulled weeds with an aching back. After all that hard work, your eyes settle on the bell pepper near the back of the garden. It’s produced next to nothing and has only a few flowers in bloom.With a slight feeling of defeat, you decide to go to your local garden supply center and purchase a liquid nutrient supplement that is high in phosphorus and low in nitrogen. You return home, use the fertilizer according to the application rates listed on the bottle and then you declare victory! But is it truly a victory? Or is it just compensating for something that your soil is lacking?
By using thoughtful soil management practices, a gardener can greatly reduce the need for supplemental nutrient assistance in a safe and natural way. It is common knowledge that liquid nutrient applications, though fast acting, can have unintended and relatively unseen ill effects on the soil. Liquid fertilizers can leave behind small amounts of nutrients and elements in the soil that cannot be absorbed by the plants. Through time, these elements can build up and destroy the bacterial/microbial balance of the soil. They can also leach down through the topsoil and into our ground water causing higher levels of heavy metals. However, all of this can be avoided by creating a nutrient and microbial rich soil that can support the plant through all stages of its life. By adding various amendments (many of which are organic), you can help preserve the natural health of your soil while, at the same time, increasing your yields.
Before I do a rundown of different soil amendments, I must clarify something first. Soil amendments are usually added for 1 of 2 reasons.
To improve the ‘tilth’ (drainage, consistency, etc…).
For fertilization.
Sometimes applying a material intended to improve ‘tilth’ can affect fertilization and vice versa. For this essay, I want to focus on the amendments that improve the fertility of the soil.
Earthworm Castings
They are quite possibly the best organic soil amendment available today. Castings are a microbial rich and naturally fine form of humus, which is always a part of good soils. Humus is organic matter that has been broken down molecularly, making the nutrients readily available to the plants roots. In this case, items, like grass clippings and food waste, move through the worm’s digestive system and are broken down. Most earthworm castings have an NPK of 1-0-0 and many have small amounts of calcium and magnesium along with other trace elements.
However, what makes earthworm casting stand out is the fact that the form the nutrients are in is one that is easily up taken by the plant. In turn, this makes the fertilizer longer lasting with less waste because the plant will only use it when it is needed. Another benefit of using earthworm casting is there are almost always tiny baby worms, which are nearly invisible contained in it. The worms will grow up in your soil and continue working long after your initial application.
Kelp Meal
Kelp meal is a dried seaweed product that is rich in minerals and essential nutrients. Most kelp meal is harvested from the cold waters of the North Atlantic and is organic as well as renewable. Kelp meal also acts as an excellent bio-activator. So, when it is added to the soil, it will help to break down other organic materials quickly and then the nutrients they posses can be easily utilized by the plant. Many people add kelp meal to their home compost piles to assist in the decomposition of grass clippings, leaves and kitchen waste.
Bone Meal
As the name implies, bone meal is made from the bones of many different kinds of animals. The bones are ground up, steamed at high heat and dried. Now, that’s what I call using the whole animal! Once again, the importance of a humus, rich soil comes into play. The bone meal is broken down on a molecular level by the bacteria in the humus. Bone meal is an excellent source of organic calcium and phosphorus, which will encourage more blooms and better fruit set. It has also been found to help mend soils with heavy metal contamination (Mark Hodson & Eva Valsami – Jones 1999).
Compost
Compost works wonders to rejuvenate your soil and give it new life. Good compost is rich in beneficial micro organisms that work to break down organic materials in the soil. When the organic material breaks down completely, it becomes humus, which is great for fertility and the suppression of disease in the soil. There are many different kinds of compost and some can be made at home. Types of compost that can be made at home include: manure, mushroom, leaf and lawn clippings. It can even be made with the fruit and vegetable scraps from your kitchen. Different types of composts can be mixed together, and mixed with other soil amendments, without worry
Hope you and everyone else finds this useful and hope it helps in some way or another.
THE IMPORTANCE OF P
Elements deemed as essential plant nutrients are classified as such due to the fact that a plant cannot properly progress through its normal growth and reproduction cycle without them. Over the last hundred plus years, scientists have studied plant growth and behavior and have found 17 elements to be the most important to plant growth. In the absence of any one of these elements, a plant will not grow and develop to its full potential. The essential elements are separated into groups based upon the level of importance they play in plant development. The elements termed macronutrients are the most important because the plant requires them at higher amounts or cannot perform important developmental processes without them. Amongst these essential elemental plant nutrients is an element, a macronutrient, called phosphorus (P).
Phosphorus plays many key functional roles in plant development, including: encouraging root formation and growth, increasing flower and fruit formation, maintaining quality of seed development and enhancing resistance to disease. In essence, phosphorus is essential for the overall health and strength of all plants. Phosphorus is a crucial component in the production of nucleic acids DNA (deoxyribonucleic acid- the “map” of the genetic code every cell needs to develop) and RNA (ribonucleic acid – used to read and interpret the “map”) because the chains of these substances are linked together by phosphorus bonds. Not only does it play important roles in the structural development of a plant, it also has a hand in the conversion of biochemical reactions within a plant. Most notably, the role it plays in photosynthesis and the production of ATP. ATP or adenosine triphosphate is the chemical structure that provides the energy allowing for numerous other chemical reactions within a plant to occur. Through photosynthesis, a plant harnesses the energy of light in the presence of chlorophyll to combine water and carbon dioxide into simple carbohydrates or sugars. The residual energy is then held in the ATP and distributed throughout the plant as needed. It is almost like charging a battery: the energy is harnessed, stored and distributed accordingly. The energy in ATP is highly mobile within a plant and is concentrated mostly in new leaves and growth.
Plant available phosphorus exists in the soil solution as the orthophosphate anions H2PO4– (dihydrogen phosphate) and HPO42– (monohydrogen phosphate). Since orthophosphates are negatively charged ions, they are not attracted by a soil’s cation exchange capacity. However, they do still interact quite strongly with iron (Fe), aluminum (Al) and calcium (Ca) cations in the soil, which create products that are insoluble and unavailable to a plant’s roots. Phosphorus availability is directly affected by the soil/rooting media pH, with maximum availability occurring between a pH range of 6.0 to 7.0. Plant roots uptake orthophosphate ions when they come into contact with them in a soil solution. Roots with heavy production of lateral root hairs have a significantly increased level of potential phosphorus uptake. Mycorrhizae fungi can have a dramatic affect on the roots’ ability to unlock and absorb phosphorus in the soil or rooting media. Soils with cool temperatures and low moisture can significantly reduce the roots’ ability to uptake phosphate ions and can possibly lead to a phosphorus deficiency within the plant. Phosphorus is required by a plant in relatively small amounts vs. the other macronutrients nitrogen (N) and potassium (K). However, when the levels reach a critically low state and deficiencies occur, plant growth is very much affected.
Phosphorus deficiency can be more difficult to diagnose compared to deficiencies of nitrogen (N) and potassium (K) because the symptoms are often much less obvious to the naked eye. Early detection is complicated by the fact that a deficiency may present itself in the form of a slowly developing plant that will looked stunted in its growth. Phosphorus deficient plants will be slow to mature and are often mistaken for much younger, healthy plants. Some plant species, including, tomatoes, corn and members of the brassica family, will develop a purplish coloring to the stems and under side of the leaves. This symptom will often occur in the older growth first as phosphorus is mobile within a plant (meaning it can be translocated to the newest developing growth where it is most needed). Phosphorus deficiency can come as a result of insufficient plant available phosphorus in the soil or rooting media. It can also occur due to soil conditions that are too cold to facilitate uptake by the plant. When phosphorus levels reach an excessive point within a plant, it may show up as a deficiency of the micronutrients iron (Fe), zinc (Zn) or even cobalt (Co). Excess phosphorus can also lead to a disruption of a plant’s normal metabolism.
Sources of phosphorus, i.e. phosphate, fertilizers range from organic to inorganic. Soils that are high in organic matter contain higher levels of organic phosphorus from materials like residual plant residues, manures or composts and dead microbial tissues. Commercially organic phosphate fertilizers include bone meal and different varieties of composted manure, such as poultry manure and colloidal phosphate. Inorganic phosphate fertilizers are manufactured from a material called rock phosphate that is mined and subsequently processed into products that contain a higher concentration of phosphate. These products include superphosphate, monoammonium phosphate (MAP) and diammonium phosphate (DAP). Fertilizers sold commercially, such as hydroponic fertilizers, usually utilize one of these forms and mix them together with water and other elemental nutrients to create the easy to use liquid concentrate fertilizers that we all enjoy. Keep in mind when buying a phosphate fertilizer, plants generally require much less phosphorus compared to nitrogen (N) and potassium (K), so follow directions carefully and be sure to not over do it. Also, make sure that phosphorus does not leach from a soil. It has the tendency to build up over time, as it has in much of our farmlands. Outdoor soil growers may find it beneficial to have their soil tested prior to any phosphorus fertilizer application.
Phosphorus and the orthophosphate anions are touchier and can behave differently than other elements in the soil and in solution. Paying careful attention to both soil and environmental conditions can help a grower receive the maximum rate of return from both fertilizer and produce. And remember, especially when it comes to phosphorus, it isn’t only how much is applied that matters, but the timing and the placement as wel
Next
The natural world is built upon a system of reliance. Nearly every living creature and organism on earth relies on others within its ecosystem to perform certain evolutionarily driven tasks that help fuel the natural progression of life.
A coyote hunts down and kills a rabbit. After the coyote consumes its fill of flesh and protein, it leaves the carcass behind and moves on. Though the coyote has discarded what remains of the dead rabbit, it is not the end of the story. It is actually just the beginning: a forward to the complex story of natural decomposition. As the rabbit carcass sits, it will begin to attract smaller animals and insects that will continue to break down what remains including bones, tendons, vascular tissues and proteins. This decomposition continues all the way down to the smallest, microscopic organisms in the soil that consume the last of the deceased rabbit’s organic matter. Just as many animals, insects, and soil microbes have relied on the consumption of the rabbit to obtain vital nutrients for survival, plants rely on those tiny soil microbes to further break down organic matter. This breakdown eventually improves soil fertility by converting the organic matter into an elemental ion form, which is readily taken in by the roots of a needy plant. The following is a brief overview of two soil microbes that can directly affect the growth of a plant, soil bacteria and fungi.
Bacteria are the most populous microorganism found in healthy soils. These tiny, single-celled creatures are microscopic in size and generally anywhere from 300,000 to 500,000 of them can fit into a period at the end of a sentence. Bacteria are the oldest, most primitive forms of life and come in three styles or shapes: spiral, coccus (oval) and bacillus (rod-shaped). All types are active in the soil. In nature, bacteria serve as one of the main decomposers of organic matter, second only to fungi. This makes them a vital member of the soil food web. By decomposing plant and animal materials, the bacteria in turn ingests organic carbon compounds, such as nitrogen and any other elemental nutrients present. The nutrients are then held or immobilized within the bacteria to be released when the bacteria itself dies. The process in which the nutrients are converted and released in plant accessible forms is called mineralization.
A favorite food source for soil bacteria is fresh, young plant material, or green matter, which the bacteria can easily break down because of its high sugar content. Older plant material (brown matter) contains more complex organic carbon compounds that require initial decomposition by other organisms before bacteria can benefit. The green matter they consume contains the carbohydrate cellulose, which is comprised of chains of carbon-based glucose. Half of a plant’s mass is made up of cellulose, so bacteria have a plentiful food source when they colonize the soil near it. Another popular food source that bacteria are attracted to is root exudates. Because of this, large numbers of bacteria will populate a plant’s rhizosphere, where they will break down organic matter and help feed the plant.
A main element that bacteria help make available from organic matter is nitrogen (N). Through decomposition, specialized bacteria (Bacillus included) have the ability to change the amino acids found in the organic material into ammonia in a process termed ammonification. Plants have the ability to take in nitrogen from ammonia in the form of ammonium nitrogen. Furthermore, other specialized bacteria (Nitrosomonas included) can convert the ammonia to nitrite, which in turn is oxidized by nitrite-oxidizing bacteria (Nitrobacter included). This oxidation finally converts the nitrite into the nitrate form of nitrogen, a form that is readily taken in by a plants root. This transformation is collectively referred to as part of the nitrogen cycle, in which bacteria play a crucial role. Bacteria will be found in larger numbers, in comparison to fungi, in gardens or fields that are tilled on a regular seasonal basis. This is because fungi are much more delicate and need more time in an undisturbed soil to grow and populate.
Fungi are usually not as numerous as bacteria in the soil, mainly because of their size. However, their numbers can still be rather high given the right conditions. Like bacteria, they too play an important role in the decomposition of organic matter and the recycling of nutrients in the soil food web. Though larger in size than bacteria, fungi are still microscopic cells. They grow in long hair-like structures called hyphae, which join together and form mycelium that can colonize the roots of a plant.
The visible part of fungi is the mushroom, which is the fruiting/flowering body that contains the spores for reproduction. A big difference between bacteria and fungi is the fact that fungi not only decompose cellulose (bacteria’s main food source), but they can also decompose more complex plant tissues such as lignin and pectin. Some fungi possess particular enzymes that can digest or breakdown the organic matter, immobilizing the nutrients within the soil. This initial decomposition of complex organic matter makes it possible for smaller organisms like bacteria to feed from it as well.
When fungal hyphae grow in length, they have the ability to sort of traverse the surrounding soil in search of more organic matter to consume. The same cannot be said about bacteria, which are more or less immobile in the soil. In nature, fungi are heavy consumers of organic matter such as dead leaves, plants and animal material. Without fungi and its ability to effectively decompose and recycle these materials, they would just continue to accumulate on the forest floor.
Some fungi even have the ability to form symbiotic relationships with the roots of vascular plants in an association that is termed mycorrhiza. The mycorrhizal relationship is one that is mutually beneficial to both the plant and the fungi. After colonizing the roots, the fungi receive a steady and direct supply of carbohydrates, such as glucose and sucrose, which are translocated from the leaves of the plants to the roots. In turn, the plant receives elemental nutrient ions that its own roots, for a variety of reasons, may not be able to uptake. The fungal hyphae have the ability to access these hard to reach nutrients, such as the phosphate ion, and deliver them directly to the roots.
Plant roots that are colonized by mycorriza fungi greatly benefit from the funguses ability to enhance and expand the surface area and reach of the original root structure. As was eluded earlier, fungi are slower growing and more delicate than their bacterial counter parts and they thrive in a soil that is relatively undisturbed, such as no-till and permiculture gardens. As they live and work on decomposing organic matter, fungi also release nitrogen in the ammonium form, which given the presence of specialized bacteria, can be converted to nitrate in two steps.
Outdoor soil growers that practice the organic method of gardening have been benefiting from, or relying on, the presence of soil microbes in their garden (many without even knowing). An important aspect to remember when discussing these tiny, living creatures in our gardens is the fact that every living creature requires a food/energy source to survive and reproduce. Soil microbes feed and obtain energy from the organic matter in the soil. Organic gardening methods are based upon this very principle. Most organic fertilizers and amendments are in a form where they must be further decomposed before they will be of any benefit to the plant. The microbes feed on this organic matter, breaking the complex carbon bonds and, for lack of a better word, release the elemental nutrients help within the bond. However, if the soil does not contain enough organic matter for microbes to feed sufficiently, their numbers will undoubtedly be lower and they will likely congregate within a plants rhizosphere. They will then consume any root exudates and dead root cells that they can.
Outdoor soil gardeners are not the only growers that can benefit from microbes in the soil. Both outdoor and indoor container growers can as well. The growers that utilize an organic soil-less potting mix and some form of organic fertilizer, be it liquid or granular, stand to benefit greatly from the inoculation of beneficial microbes to the rooting media. A majority of organic fertilizers contain small amounts of elemental nutrients that are readily available to plant roots, but most of the nutrients will still be trapped within a carbon bond. The addition of soil microbes to the rooting medium will help the grower obtain a higher level of soil fertility and plant development.
Soil microbes have also been shown to help water retention and disease suppression within the root zone. I personally do not recommend the addition of beneficial microbes or any potentially living biological to traditional hydroponic growing systems; especially, those that incorporate an inert substrate like perlite or rockwool as a growing medium. These systems usually utilize inorganic fertilizer sources that are designed for immediate uptake by the roots. Without a proper source of organic matter for them to feed from, most will likely never inoculate or die from starvation. Those that do survive will likely gather within the rhizosphere where they could potentially cause more harm than good, especially if the conditions in the root zone become anerobic or lacking in oxygen.
As natural evolution has progressed in our world, it has embraced both competition and reliance as a way to cycle energy and nutrition throughout the land, sea, and sky. The microorganisms in the soil and the plants we grow are constantly involved in an often mutually beneficial game of give and take. And it is this reliance they have developed with on another that keeps life complex and perpetual.
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So, here’s the scenario. It’s over half way through the growing season and you’re looking over your garden with the pride and adoration that comes from all the hard work you put into it. You lovingly and painstakingly planned and planted, then lovingly and painstakingly pulled weeds with an aching back. After all that hard work, your eyes settle on the bell pepper near the back of the garden. It’s produced next to nothing and has only a few flowers in bloom.With a slight feeling of defeat, you decide to go to your local garden supply center and purchase a liquid nutrient supplement that is high in phosphorus and low in nitrogen. You return home, use the fertilizer according to the application rates listed on the bottle and then you declare victory! But is it truly a victory? Or is it just compensating for something that your soil is lacking?
By using thoughtful soil management practices, a gardener can greatly reduce the need for supplemental nutrient assistance in a safe and natural way. It is common knowledge that liquid nutrient applications, though fast acting, can have unintended and relatively unseen ill effects on the soil. Liquid fertilizers can leave behind small amounts of nutrients and elements in the soil that cannot be absorbed by the plants. Through time, these elements can build up and destroy the bacterial/microbial balance of the soil. They can also leach down through the topsoil and into our ground water causing higher levels of heavy metals. However, all of this can be avoided by creating a nutrient and microbial rich soil that can support the plant through all stages of its life. By adding various amendments (many of which are organic), you can help preserve the natural health of your soil while, at the same time, increasing your yields.
Before I do a rundown of different soil amendments, I must clarify something first. Soil amendments are usually added for 1 of 2 reasons.
To improve the ‘tilth’ (drainage, consistency, etc…).
For fertilization.
Sometimes applying a material intended to improve ‘tilth’ can affect fertilization and vice versa. For this essay, I want to focus on the amendments that improve the fertility of the soil.
Earthworm Castings
They are quite possibly the best organic soil amendment available today. Castings are a microbial rich and naturally fine form of humus, which is always a part of good soils. Humus is organic matter that has been broken down molecularly, making the nutrients readily available to the plants roots. In this case, items, like grass clippings and food waste, move through the worm’s digestive system and are broken down. Most earthworm castings have an NPK of 1-0-0 and many have small amounts of calcium and magnesium along with other trace elements.
However, what makes earthworm casting stand out is the fact that the form the nutrients are in is one that is easily up taken by the plant. In turn, this makes the fertilizer longer lasting with less waste because the plant will only use it when it is needed. Another benefit of using earthworm casting is there are almost always tiny baby worms, which are nearly invisible contained in it. The worms will grow up in your soil and continue working long after your initial application.
Kelp Meal
Kelp meal is a dried seaweed product that is rich in minerals and essential nutrients. Most kelp meal is harvested from the cold waters of the North Atlantic and is organic as well as renewable. Kelp meal also acts as an excellent bio-activator. So, when it is added to the soil, it will help to break down other organic materials quickly and then the nutrients they posses can be easily utilized by the plant. Many people add kelp meal to their home compost piles to assist in the decomposition of grass clippings, leaves and kitchen waste.
Bone Meal
As the name implies, bone meal is made from the bones of many different kinds of animals. The bones are ground up, steamed at high heat and dried. Now, that’s what I call using the whole animal! Once again, the importance of a humus, rich soil comes into play. The bone meal is broken down on a molecular level by the bacteria in the humus. Bone meal is an excellent source of organic calcium and phosphorus, which will encourage more blooms and better fruit set. It has also been found to help mend soils with heavy metal contamination (Mark Hodson & Eva Valsami – Jones 1999).
Compost
Compost works wonders to rejuvenate your soil and give it new life. Good compost is rich in beneficial micro organisms that work to break down organic materials in the soil. When the organic material breaks down completely, it becomes humus, which is great for fertility and the suppression of disease in the soil. There are many different kinds of compost and some can be made at home. Types of compost that can be made at home include: manure, mushroom, leaf and lawn clippings. It can even be made with the fruit and vegetable scraps from your kitchen. Different types of composts can be mixed together, and mixed with other soil amendments, without worry
Hope you and everyone else finds this useful and hope it helps in some way or another.
