Sick Plants

[Alex Delarge]

Also u stated that ur using gh flora? as in grow/bloom/micro? Are u adding the micro to your resevoir first? Make sure you're adding the micro to the water first as adding it after the others will cause lockout as well. What are you using to ph your feed? Is that calibrated?

Have been doing it wrong, although I had read that. Just follow chart when adding, which uses FloraGro first.

Just dumped reservoir, have been adding 1/5th reservoir a day, so have not changed in a while.

Are there any resources for fertilizing schedules for different plants, and the PPM they should have at certain points? That would be a great resource, but would need consensus.

Thanks!

 

[Alex Delarge]

Still confused. It could be Manganese deficiency, from too much Magnesium, or Magnesium deficiency. Will read labels and take best guess.

Only happens on old leaves, on rapidly flowering plants.

 

[Shadowbuck]

Still confused. It could be Manganese deficiency, from too much Magnesium, or Magnesium deficiency. Will read labels and take best guess.

Only happens on old leaves, on rapidly flowering plants.

To clarify, it is NOT from too much magnesium. It is from magnesium deficiency. This can be from either the absence of enough mag in the nutrient solution OR this can be from a magnesium lockout (which is what I'm presuming). A lockout occurs when the particular nutrient IS present, HOWEVER it is not bio available for uptake by the plant. The most common cause is from ph. When reading that chart that auto posted, the bars indicate at what ph range the particular nute is available to the plant. If you examine the mg bar in the hydroponic graph you will notice that at a ph of 5.7 (which is what you stated your res was at) mg is no longer available to the plant. That is a 'lockout' situation. ALSO, a lockout can be caused by improper mixing of the nutrients as well. The MICRO fert must ALWAYS be added to the res water FIRST. I am not a scientist so I can not tell you EXACTLY why that is. But in general, my understanding is that if you add the grow/bloom first, it stops the micro from properly mixing with the water and/or the micro nutes bond to the grow/bloom fert nute compounds and are then no longer 'mobile' and free for the plant to absorb. It is a chemistry lesson I do not fully understand either but it is certainly fact. Long story short, if you are not adding the micro to the water FIRST, then you will have problems. Most people tend to recommend adding the nutes in this order 1.Micro 2.Grow 3.Bloom.

So again, adjust your ph to 5.8-5.9, and start adding the ferts in the proper order and that will def help your problem I would all but guarantee.

Also check the picture I posted in my last post on toxic salts. Look at the image for Mg deficiency. You may need to squint or utilize the zoom in you web browser to read it. There is some good info on that pic...including a foliar feed recipe for mag deficiency involving epsom salts that (along with the above suggestions of raising ph and mixing micro first) will speed up the process of correcting the deficiency. You will likely lose some foliage/leaves that was too far damaged and was gonna die anyways...but it looks like since you are just starting into flowering, if you correct the problem quickly, you should still get a decent harvest of bud. It's likely that yield will be somewhat affected (lower) than what 'could have been', but all is certainly not lost! Good luck with ur grow bro, and let us know how treatment goes.

Peace
-Shadowbuck

 

[DWCocha]

1200 ppm is a lot for a plant that size mate.... You can tell if its to much when it continues to rise after making the res .That means shes drinking the water faster than eating the nutes & you need to top off with water to bring it down. If your ppm drops then shes eating faster than drinking & you would up the feed ect ... monitor the ppm and set it to a level where it stays stable (does not rise or drop) & you found the "sweet spot".Then she will drink & feed at the same rate ,the ppm will be stable & you can relax knowing she's in the zone !.

Like shadow says ,go for 5.8-5.9 ph in bloom but you may want some cal/mg supps as its a very common issue with hydro ... epsom salts in a spray or liquid cal/mg in a bottle .If you go for the latter then I think that would go in the res before anything else again,for the same reasons Shadow stated. ?.Im going on memory from what ive been taught & my memory is bad at best !.but im sure I'll will get put straight if I am wrong?

to Shadow ,all sounds spot on form my limited experience :group:

 

[Shadowbuck]

If you do end up doing the foliar feed as well, make sure you foliar feed at night after your light goes out. Water droplets on leaves act as magnifying glasses and will burn your leaves if the light is on. If you are unfamiliar with foliar feeding, a quick search on this site for general info on foliar feeding would be a good idea so you have a general understanding of what to do. Peace

 

[happily]

even though you're not using fox farms the fox farms hydro feeding schedule will show you an idea on ppm's at which week of growth

 

[Alex Delarge]

To clarify, it is NOT from too much magnesium. It is from magnesium deficiency. This can be from either the absence of enough mag in the nutrient solution OR this can be from a magnesium lockout (which is what I'm presuming). A lockout occurs when the particular nutrient IS present, HOWEVER it is not bio available for uptake by the plant. The most common cause is from ph. When reading that chart that auto posted, the bars indicate at what ph range the particular nute is available to the plant. If you examine the mg bar in the hydroponic graph you will notice that at a ph of 5.7 (which is what you stated your res was at) mg is no longer available to the plant. That is a 'lockout' situation. ALSO, a lockout can be caused by improper mixing of the nutrients as well. The MICRO fert must ALWAYS be added to the res water FIRST. I am not a scientist so I can not tell you EXACTLY why that is. But in general, my understanding is that if you add the grow/bloom first, it stops the micro from properly mixing with the water and/or the micro nutes bond to the grow/bloom fert nute compounds and are then no longer 'mobile' and free for the plant to absorb. It is a chemistry lesson I do not fully understand either but it is certainly fact. Long story short, if you are not adding the micro to the water FIRST, then you will have problems. Most people tend to recommend adding the nutes in this order 1.Micro 2.Grow 3.Bloom.

So again, adjust your ph to 5.8-5.9, and start adding the ferts in the proper order and that will def help your problem I would all but guarantee.

Also check the picture I posted in my last post on toxic salts. Look at the image for Mg deficiency. You may need to squint or utilize the zoom in you web browser to read it. There is some good info on that pic...including a foliar feed recipe for mag deficiency involving epsom salts that (along with the above suggestions of raising ph and mixing micro first) will speed up the process of correcting the deficiency. You will likely lose some foliage/leaves that was too far damaged and was gonna die anyways...but it looks like since you are just starting into flowering, if you correct the problem quickly, you should still get a decent harvest of bud. It's likely that yield will be somewhat affected (lower) than what 'could have been', but all is certainly not lost! Good luck with ur grow bro, and let us know how treatment goes.

Peace
-Shadowbuck

Thanks, great info!! Realized today it was from too little magnesium, though heard too much magnesium could lockout manganese, and cause same problem. Did not realize if it was old leaves, it is magnesium deficiency, young leaves is manganese deficiency, caused by too much magnesium.

 

[Alex Delarge]

1200 ppm is a lot for a plant that size mate.... You can tell if its to much when it continues to rise after making the res .That means shes drinking the water faster than eating the nutes & you need to top off with water to bring it down. If your ppm drops then shes eating faster than drinking & you would up the feed ect ... monitor the ppm and set it to a level where it stays stable (does not rise or drop) & you found the "sweet spot".Then she will drink & feed at the same rate ,the ppm will be stable & you can relax knowing she's in the zone !.

Like shadow says ,go for 5.8-5.9 ph in bloom but you may want some cal/mg supps as its a very common issue with hydro ... epsom salts in a spray or liquid cal/mg in a bottle .If you go for the latter then I think that would go in the res before anything else again,for the same reasons Shadow stated. ?.Im going on memory from what ive been taught & my memory is bad at best !.but im sure I'll will get put straight if I am wrong?

to Shadow ,all sounds spot on form my limited experience :group:

Awesome tip!!!!

 

[Alex Delarge]

Burns usually start at the tip's...

heres a few charts should help out looks like it could be Cal-mag def.

Thanks for the help. Was confused by contradicting info. Did not realize if young leaves then Manganese, if old leaves then Magnesium.

 

[Alex Delarge]

I apologize to all for not taking your suggestions instantly. Saw pictures of plants with my problem, but they were young. My stupid question helped me a lot, learning about how to adjust PPM, and perfect PH! Used to have high PH, so a little low, I thought, would be better.

Thanks to all!!