New Grower Aluminum sulfate

You can by 33% sulferic acid at Napa or any other auto store, its called 'battery acid', if you ask for sulferic acid they might raise an eyebrow. It is cheap and about as fast as anything when it comes to adjusting PH. Just dilute it before using and mix in well... I use it to adjust tap water for my blueberries and works well. Remember to add acid to water, not water to acid, also wear protective gloves and glasses when handling concentrated acid. It stores fine any any polycarbonate container like an empty 2l soda bottle.
 
You can by 33% sulferic acid at Napa or any other auto store, its called 'battery acid', if you ask for sulferic acid they might raise an eyebrow. It is cheap and about as fast as anything when it comes to adjusting PH. Just dilute it before using and mix in well... I use it to adjust tap water for my blueberries and works well. Remember to add acid to water, not water to acid, also wear protective gloves and glasses when handling concentrated acid. It stores fine any any polycarbonate container like an empty 2l soda bottle.

Muriatic acid, lemon juice and vinegar will also work to lower the pH of your feeds. However they will not work to lower the starting pH of your soil, which is what we're discussing here.
 
Do you have a good soil probe like the Accurate 8? If not, I would suggest getting one. They are about $50 and worth every penny. I would suggest making up a batch of your mix, watering it with water pHed to 6.5, wait a day and check the pH with the probe. See what you're reading and then I can probably give you an idea of how much AS to add.

Hi Muddy. I received my Accurate 8 soil meter. Began a test of various amounts of Alum. Sulf. (including zero amount). Everything came out too acidic -- including the zero sample. It appears my mixing Kellogg "Patio Plus (Premium Outdoor Potting Mix)" with Pro-Mix HP significantly acidifies the the mix. You may recall that I'm doing 60% Pro-Mix, 22.5% Kellogg, 17.5% Perlite.[1]

I'm going to start a new test of various amounts of Dolomite (no Alum. Sulf.). I'll start my own thread with the results and link to/from this thread. But, I wanted to mention my preliminary results because you and Dingo mentioned the challenge of lowering ph with soilless (peat or coco).

This was good timing because I was heading toward a problem without realizing it. You may recall I begal with 60-20-20% last October. I pulled this ratio out of thin air, thinking I'd get the best of both worlds (and maybe a wider ph range for nutrient availability). At that time I found a blog which validated my gut feeling.[2] At that time, I was doing 2-3 Tbsp/gal of Dolomite. I stopped testing my runoff because things seemed good. Later, I slightly increased the Kellogg proportion because I had a gut feeling it gave me a richer, loamy medium. I also cut back on Dolomite because I kept reading Pro-Mix doesn't need it. I never considered the Kellogg soil was acidifying my mix so much. While waiting for the soil meter I began to notice calmag deficiency in my 3rd auto grow. Tested the runoff and it showed me the soil is around 5 ph. My soil test using the new meter confirms my runoff.

So, I need to test higher quantities of Dolomite (Or, lower Kellogg proprotions). I think I'd prefer higher Dolomite because this would make more calmag available to the plants.

I'll start a new thread with my results because the OP wasn't asking about soilless. I just wanted to give an update because you and dingo have mentioned the challenge of too-high ph with soilless (peat or coco). More later. But, thanks to you and the OP for helping me get to this point (at about the same time I was experiencing a low-ph problem).

[1] I'm not that precise. I do 3 scoops Pro-Mix, 1 heaping scoop Kellogg, 1 shy scoop Perlite. I originally started growing with 60-20-20 and increased the Kellogg (slightly) because it created what appeared to be a richer, loamy soil that just felt good to me at some gut/intuitive level. It seemed like it took a bit longer to dry. With less Kellogg, I was watering every 2 days. With more, I can go 3 days -- which felt better to me.

[2] http://www.earthangroup.com.au/soil-media-use-in-aquaponics-pros-and-cons/
 
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Sounds like the Accurate 8 has paid for itself already. You're going to love it and wonder how you ever grew without one.

Good to know on the Kelloggs. I'll keep that in mind in case I see someone else using it. Also, keep checking the pH of your test posts daily. You may find that the pH will creep up a little as the soil dries. Keep me posted on what you find.
 
Iron sulphate may be an alternative to aluminium sulphate for these purposes, as it will undergo a similar acid generating reaction. Iron is also an essential nutrient for plants, unlike aluminium which doesn't have any known essential purpose.

pH in soil will always vary with water content, because this determines how dilute (or concentrated) the solution is.
 
There is evidence to suggest a link between ingesting aluminium and Alzheimers disease. Avoid it when growing plants is my opinion.
 
Four grams per gallon of soil mix is a very small amount. Any studies that show how much of that is actually taken up by the plants, then taken in by humans who smoke those plants? Is it present in the leaves and buds and actually inhaled when smoked or vaped?
 
Well since none of our scientist that I know of, I would think that a heavy metal would only need a very small amount to be harmful. The plant may not uptake enough of it to be harmful but since there is no studies I'm aware of and it's listed as neurotoxin. A lot of folks here are med users and really should be steered clear away from any unknown practices.... If there are no studies and better and safer known alternatives let's try and promote those.

I wouldn't smoke a plant that was foliar sprayed with STS. So I'd think that the plant on a systemic level could possibly uptake some if this aluminum sulfate.
A quick google search turned this up which also reccomends not using aluminum sulfate. We have a responsibility to all members to try and spread the healthiest information that is out there In regards to our beloved medicine. A two sec google search has turned up safer alternatives to lowering a soils ph.

here is a cut and paste from there and the link

http://www.sustland.umn.edu/implement/soil_ph.html

Alkaline (basic) soils have a pH of more than 7.0. Basic soils are generally found in areas with lower rainfall levels, in urban areas (due to large amount of cement), and in areas where there is a high concentration of clay in the soil (Midwest, Southwest).


There are several materials that can be used to lower the pH of alkaline soil.


Liquid soil acidifiers, such as Stern's Miracid, temporarily lower soil acidity. Miracid lowers the soil pH resulting in increased availability of micronutrients in high pH soils. Miracid can be applied to soil or on leaves for a fast foliar feeding. Because of the temporary nature of this product, it must be applied every two weeks. Liquid soil acidifiers, such as Miracid, are time consuming to apply and are therefore best used in small areas.


Application Rate: One tablespoon of Miracid to one gallon of water (one gallon of solution covers approximately 10 square feet).
Iron sulfate is a fast acting soil-acidifying amendment. Changes in pH level usually occur with 3 to 4 weeks. Table 2 shows the application rate of iron sulfate. If more than 7 pounds per 100 square feet is to be applied, split the applications in 1 to 2 month intervals and water frequently to avoid excessive levels of soluble salts.
Table 2.
Pounds of Iron Sulfate Needed to
Lower Soil pH by One Unit (lbs. Per 100 square feet)
Soil Type
Sand, Loamy Sand, Sandy Loam Loam, Silt Loam
4.8 lbs. 19.2 lbs.


Adapted from University of MN Extension Service publication "Soil Acidification."
Aluminum sulfate can be used to lower pH. However, it is not recommended as a soil-acidifying agent because it can produce aluminum toxicity in plant roots.


Elemental sulfur reacts slowly with the soil. It should be applied and worked into the soil to a depth of 6 inches. Because elemental sulfur is a slow reactor, it should be applied the year before planting for best results. Table 3 shows the application rate of elemental sulfur used to lower soil pH by one unit. Table 4 provides the application rate of elemental sulfur used to lower soil pH to 4.5.


Table 3.
Pounds of Elemental Sulfur Needed to
Lower Soil pH by One Unit (lbs. Per 100 square feet)
Soil Type
Sand, Loamy Sand, Sandy Loam Loam, Silt Loam
0.8 lbs. 2.4 lbs.


Adapted from University of MN Extension Service publication "Soil Acidification."


Table 4.
Pounds of Elemental Sulfur Needed to
Lower Soil pH to 4.5 (lbs. Per 100 square feet)
Soil Type
Soil pH Sand, Loamy Sand, Sandy Loam Loam, Silt Loam
7.0 1.9 lbs. 5.8 lbs.
6.5 1.5 lbs. 4.6 lbs.
6.0 1.2 lbs. 3.5 lbs.
5.5 0.8 lbs. 2.4 lbs.
5.0 0.4 lbs. 1.2 lbs.


:Sharing One:
 
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