Eeh Gads, that's one naught dog!! (one with a big grin on its face)!

Yup.....:pass:..

Thanks for sharing, once again cannabis's resilience shines through!:vibe::woohoo1::headbang::smoking:

Yup..you wouldn't have thought they would harvest...but they did............just a bit stumpy from the unseasonable cold nights feb/march...then being eaten.

Have you seen the vids about grow tomatoes..not leaves.....?....same kind of thing to me....if you can do it to a tomato..you can do it to your Dope...:watering:

Did you See my Lazy Cow tomatoes....?

IMG_6394.JPG


Thin slice of your favourite tommy...thick kitchen roll....
air dry..

IMG_6410.JPG


Trim paper..cover with soil..water.........:watering:

IMG_6883.JPG


ta-da....:watering:
 
..
5.8PH is the ball park for all coco grows and is a good PH for any coco grower.
You can stick religiously to 5.8PH in coco and get good results every time.
At the start of a grow seedling tend to like it a little bit more acidic and towards the end of the grow they can take a bit more alkaline, as it make the calcium and magnesium more available.
A wet/dry cycle (which cannabis likes) makes the PH fluctuate too but not too much, which also makes the various chemicals in the feed available.
It is only a subtle shift but one that growing in coco likes as coco likes to hold on to calcium and lock it up.
Using properly rinsed & buffered coco helps to reduce this but using full spectrum lighting like LED, LEP & CMH enable the plant to use nutrients at a higher rate, which can lead to CalMag/Iron deficiency.
So 5.8PH is the ideal middle ground for PHing feeds in coco but allowing it to range from 5.7 to 6.1 occasionally, with a wet dry cycle will allow the plants to get the full spectrum of nutrients.


What "EC" or which "PPM scale"nutrient strength you use, well that's down to what each strain likes, some can go strong whilst other strain only like light feeding.
It's all about feeling your way forwards and seeing if they are demanding to be fed more.
If you grow a strain numerous times then you get to dial in what it likes, the problem these days is there are so many strains on the market, virtually no one except commercial growers, grow the same strain twice. This means every grow we are feeling out way forwards, often using rules of thumb as a guide, which we tweek in response to our plants needs.

One thing to remember about PPM is there are several different scales, such as the 500 scale (Hanna) the 640 scale (Eutech) the 700 scale (Truncheon).ppm is known as dimensionless quantities; that is, they are pure numbers with no associated units of measurement. A mass concentration of 2mg/kg - 2 parts per million - 2ppm - 2 x 10 -6. There are many different scales used for different industries around the world and for many different reasons!
EC stands for Electrical Conductivity and is measured in mS/cm or millisiemens per centimeter. TDS stands for Total Dissolved Solids and is measured in PPM or parts per million. TDS is acquired by taking the EC value and performing a calculation to determine the TDS value.
To find out what CF is in EC / by 10 and EC to CF * by 10.

North america tends to use the 500 scale , whilst europe tends to use the 700 scale.
The 700 scale & the 500 scale are the most frequently used scales.
here is how to find the PPM of each of the 500 & 700 scales into EC and vice versa,
2.4EC x 500 = 1200ppm (500 scale) or 1200ppm / 500 = 2.4EC
2.4EC x 700 = 1680ppm (700 scale) or 1680ppm / 700 = 2.4EC


WHAT PPM SCALE IS YOUR NUTRIENT FORMULA REFERRING TO?

Manufacturer PPM Scales (North american companies may tend to use the 500 scale and European companies tend to use the 700 scale. check with the manufacturer if you are unsure)

Advanced Nutrients 700 scale
Botanicare 700 scale
Cutting Edge Solutions 500 scale
Dutch Master 500 scale
Dyna-Gro 500 scale
FoxFarm 700 scale using dechlorinated tap water
General Hydroponics 500 scale using reverse osmosis water
General Organics 500 scale using reverse osmosis water
House & Garden 700 scale
Humboldt Nutrients 500 scale
Hydro Organics/ Earth Juice 500 scale
Miller Chemical & Fertilizer
Nectar for the Gods 700 scale
Rock Nutrients 700 scale
Roots Organics 500 scale
Soul Synthetics 500 scale
Technaflora 500 scale

Here is a chart that shows which meters measures which scales (Nb. Bluelabs "Truncheon" measures EC, 500 scale and 700 scale) which is why i have one.
To increase the size of the chart open it in another window and using CTRL and mouse wheel to magnify. Mac users, i have no idea how to make it bigger, sorry.
View attachment 1060425

I may have got carried away a bit there but it is all useful knowledge and giving someone a PPM strength without stating which PPM scale you are using could cause disastrous effect on another persons grow, if they are using a different scale!

Here is a EC, CF & 500, 640 & 700 scale chart conversion.
View attachment 1060427
You will notice if you look at 1.0EC and follow across the chart you will see the 500 scale, the 640 scale & the 700 scale etc
I was just re-reading this info you posted, trying to get it to stick lol, and I noticed that my pH meter isn't on your chart....gutted lol.....:smiley1::smiley1::astar::astar::smiley1::smiley1:
 
Yup.....:pass:..



Yup..you wouldn't have thought they would harvest...but they did............just a bit stumpy from the unseasonable cold nights feb/march...then being eaten.

Have you seen the vids about grow tomatoes..not leaves.....?....same kind of thing to me....if you can do it to a tomato..you can do it to your Dope...:watering:

Did you See my Lazy Cow tomatoes....?

View attachment 1061569

Thin slice of your favourite tommy...thick kitchen roll....
air dry..

View attachment 1061570

Trim paper..cover with soil..water.........:watering:

View attachment 1061578

ta-da....:watering:
Nice.....Information Central around here.......:smiley1:
 
Yup.....:pass:..



Yup..you wouldn't have thought they would harvest...but they did............just a bit stumpy from the unseasonable cold nights feb/march...then being eaten.

Have you seen the vids about grow tomatoes..not leaves.....?....same kind of thing to me....if you can do it to a tomato..you can do it to your Dope...:watering:

Did you See my Lazy Cow tomatoes....?

View attachment 1061569

Thin slice of your favourite tommy...thick kitchen roll....
air dry..

View attachment 1061570

Trim paper..cover with soil..water.........:watering:

View attachment 1061578

ta-da....:watering:
Wow, sorry for the late reply, i've been getting alerts all day!
I'm gonna go check youtube for "grow tomatoes not leaves"
Stumpy is much better than none at all!! As you know I like a stout stocky plant but maybe a little larger, thank goodness I don't have a naughty doggy!

You can do it to a tomato you can do it to dope?! OK i'm off to make a cheese and dope sandwich..... I'll let you know how i get on!:crying:

Now that Lazy Cow, sliced tomato grow technique is awesome, way to go!
did invent it yourself ?(Not that I'm calling you a Lazy Cow you realise, I know you are far from that but with so many forum duties you need a shortcut somewhere!)

Do you know about "piccolo" tomatoes? There are really nice firm cherry & Grape (baby plum) varieties of tomato. The italians cut the small vines (can be grown in pots on the window sill and they are slug resistant) and then they hang the fruit covered vine in the cellar, where they last all winter.
They just pluck what they need, when they need it.
Their longevity comes about because they are quite firm and less mushy (full of watery juice) and so they are more like tiny beefsteak toms just a lot smaller.being on the vine also helps because any tom with the green stalky bit still attached will last longer that a tom with no green stalky bit.

Do you still have your "Sanctuary" thread still going? If you do I really must drop by!
 
..

I was just re-reading this info you posted, trying to get it to stick lol, and I noticed that my pH meter isn't on your chart....gutted lol.....:smiley1::smiley1::astar::astar::smiley1::smiley1:
Copy and paste the info into word and save it, that way you can always find it.
I have a number of useful bits from the forums, which have caused me no end of searching to find it again. I have done this with your feed schedule and very handy to alway be able to access it at a moments notice.
I posted a heap of info and there was more i could of posted in it but i needed to restrain myself from getting to technical.
To be honest what i wrote is good info but it can be scaled down to a smaller amount of info.
Coco grows like 5.8 PH. Allow the PH to range occasionally. The most universal nutrient strength measurement is EC.
Try to wash probes with ionised water after use to prevent salt build up.
Use a EC or a PH probe calibration powders/fluid and mix with ionised water for correct PHing levels.
Ionized water is available from car shop or hardware shops.
Expensive PH pens like my Blue Lab PH pen need to be kept in "probe solution" this type of PH meter is called a "Wet Bulb" probe. Other probe that don't need this solution are "Dry Probe".
Google you probes name/model number and maybe add the words "data sheet" after it, you should find some reference to your probe. Failing that contact the manufacturer.
If you have an EC meter (and it is calibrated) you can then mix a solution to 1 EC and then stick you PPM probe in the same solution find out what PPM scale it is.
Alternatively buy a EC pen as a back up, these days buying a new meter is cheap as chips all thanks to Ebay and China.
I now have multiple probes, some as back ups I have a TDS pen, 2 x cheap PH meters, 1 x Hanna (very good brand and not cheap) Blue Lab PH pen (another good make and again a bit pricey) and a Blue Lab Truncheon which measures EC, 500 scale and 700 scale. Blue Lab are my go to brand and the truncheon is awesome and doubles as a nutrient stirrer!
To be honest i have always measure in EC it is just so much easier, especially when stating what strength nutrient mix you have.
 
Nice.....Information Central around here.......:smiley1:
Lol yes it is!! Mossy and I do like to share info with each other.
I know many things on many subjects but mossy always blows me away, with what she knows, I just love the transfer of knowledge between us!:headbang::woohoo1::d5:
 
Another "Schwazzing" time lapse from "Three a Light".
This time it is from above and shows how the plants grow with their defoliation technique, a little more clearly.

Veg growth up to 30 seconds in the time lapse video, just before going in to flower.
Then first defoliation takes place.All Fan leaves apart those at the ends of the branches are defoliated, if they shade lover bud sites. Exterior fan leaves which don't shade any bud sites can be left on.
Plants are in flowering stage and then get second defoliation at 38 seconds in the time lapse, which is the 3rd week of flower,
Rest of the vid is the remainder of flowering period, until crop!
 
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Copy and paste the info into word and save it, that way you can always find it.
I have a number of useful bits from the forums, which have caused me no end of searching to find it again. I have done this with your feed schedule and very handy to alway be able to access it at a moments notice.
I posted a heap of info and there was more i could of posted in it but i needed to restrain myself from getting to technical.
To be honest what i wrote is good info but it can be scaled down to a smaller amount of info.
Coco grows like 5.8 PH. Allow the PH to range occasionally. The most universal nutrient strength measurement is EC.
Try to wash probes with ionised water after use to prevent salt build up.
Use a EC or a PH probe calibration powders/fluid and mix with ionised water for correct PHing levels.
Ionized water is available from car shop or hardware shops.
Expensive PH pens like my Blue Lab PH pen need to be kept in "probe solution" this type of PH meter is called a "Wet Bulb" probe. Other probe that don't need this solution are "Dry Probe".
Google you probes name/model number and maybe add the words "data sheet" after it, you should find some reference to your probe. Failing that contact the manufacturer.
If you have an EC meter (and it is calibrated) you can then mix a solution to 1 EC and then stick you PPM probe in the same solution find out what PPM scale it is.
Alternatively buy a EC pen as a back up, these days buying a new meter is cheap as chips all thanks to Ebay and China.
I now have multiple probes, some as back ups I have a TDS pen, 2 x cheap PH meters, 1 x Hanna (very good brand and not cheap) Blue Lab PH pen (another good make and again a bit pricey) and a Blue Lab Truncheon which measures EC, 500 scale and 700 scale. Blue Lab are my go to brand and the truncheon is awesome and doubles as a nutrient stirrer!
To be honest i have always measure in EC it is just so much easier, especially when stating what strength nutrient mix you have.
..dude I have a Hanna HI-98118 Groline....just wondered why it wasn't on the list lol.....I don't measure my EC unless necessary really dude...I kept a list thru the first grow and it was REALLY unsurprising lol...I do have a cheaper EC meter tho..:smiley1:...and please share as much growing knowledge as you can between yourself and Mossy....as long as I can peep at it lol :smiley1:
 
N
..dude I have a Hanna HI-98118 Groline....just wondered why it wasn't on the list lol.....I don't measure my EC unless necessary really dude...I kept a list thru the first grow and it was REALLY unsurprising lol...I do have a cheaper EC meter tho..:smiley1:...and please share as much growing knowledge as you can between yourself and Mossy....as long as I can peep at it lol :smiley1:
Hanna are great, if you need info on them it should be easy enough to find.
But of the top of my head I dunno what scale they measure, I'd have to check.
I didn't make the chart but it is weird they didn't include Hanna!

I'm sure i will share more bits and pieces, as will mossy when certain subjects arise! :smiley1:
 
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