Lighting Dimmer and Clamp Voltage Meter

hecno

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Need a bit of advice please . I have a dimmer , a nob type one
18P8VVLnRi6ErF2oV1oK_SDF-30.jpg
Now if I had a Voltage meter like this .

LCD-Digital-Voltmeter-Ammeter-Ohmmeter-Multimeter-AC-DC-Test-font-b-Clamp-b-font-font-b.jpg

Could I clamp it onto the main wire feeding the cobs to work out settings , which would mean I could mark the nob for where I want the setting . :shrug: :thumbsup:
 
Need a bit of advice please . I have a dimmer , a nob type one
18P8VVLnRi6ErF2oV1oK_SDF-30.jpg
Now if I had a Voltage meter like this .

LCD-Digital-Voltmeter-Ammeter-Ohmmeter-Multimeter-AC-DC-Test-font-b-Clamp-b-font-font-b.jpg

Could I clamp it onto the main wire feeding the cobs to work out settings , which would mean I could mark the nob for where I want the setting . :shrug: [emoji106]
First, make sure you have the appropriate potentiometer for the driver you are using. Yes, digital multimeters can read just about any electrical activity occuring from continuity to voltage to current to cycles to resistance and so on...you just need to know the proper technique for what you want to achieve, and how to set the meter up correctly To measure voltage, you measure across the leads, and to measure current, you literally wire the meter into the signal chain in series with a circuit. Do a little research here so you don't smoke a good meter by putting a hot load through it on the wrong configuration. All drivers I've dimmed using 0-10v resistance type dimming, including Mean Well HLG series and LG Innotek dim in 10 steps. So like 10% - 100% in very visible steps, not nice and smooth like PCM dimming or rheostat dimming as in an AC circuit in your home. Hope this helps. Happy building and don't burn the house down.

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Hey now,
@Dr.Bubbles gives excellent advice. Pay attention to what he has said.

I am going to assume you have a dimmer on your light that works and you want adjust it by the current draw and “calibrate” your dial so to speak. If that is the case you are on the right track, a clamp type Amp meter wii read current draw and yes if you clamp around the main power wire going to the socket or mains it should give you a number. I would suggest something like a kill-a-watt style widget my be an easier solution. You know the typ I mean, they sell them to track things like large appliances. The ones I have seen have a nice readout and all.
 
Hey now,
@Dr.Bubbles gives excellent advice. Pay attention to what he has said.

I am going to assume you have a dimmer on your light that works and you want adjust it by the current draw and “calibrate” your dial so to speak. If that is the case you are on the right track, a clamp type Amp meter wii read current draw and yes if you clamp around the main power wire going to the socket or mains it should give you a number. I would suggest something like a kill-a-watt style widget my be an easier solution. You know the typ I mean, they sell them to track things like large appliances. The ones I have seen have a nice readout and all.

Kill-a-watt meters only measure AC side. Not DC.
I am reading 285W on my 220W COBs...
 
True, it was also my assumption that the OP just wanted reasonable numbers to calibrate by. You could put an ammeter in-line on the DC side for an exact measurement. I just thought amp clamp meters that are accurate cost a good bit of money and not necessarily what was needed for this. I paid $250.00 for my Fluke meter.
Peace
 
http://@wwwillie -- True, it was also my assumption that the OP just wanted reasonable numbers to calibrate by -- :thumbsup: yes this is all I want to do . So if I had one of these .
kill-a-watt.jpg
and plugged it into the driver input and turned the dimmer knob from high to low , I would have 2 figures . Lets say 120 to 0 , So 60 would be 1/2 the light output 30 would be 1/4 ect . At this stage all I am looking for is a ball park figure :thumbsup:
 
http://@wwwillie -- True, it was also my assumption that the OP just wanted reasonable numbers to calibrate by -- :thumbsup: yes this is all I want to do . So if I had one of these .
kill-a-watt.jpg
and plugged it into the driver input and turned the dimmer knob from high to low , I would have 2 figures . Lets say 120 to 0 , So 60 would be 1/2 the light output 30 would be 1/4 ect . At this stage all I am looking for is a ball park figure :thumbsup:

That’s how I would figure it.
The widget I use in my builds measures it the same way.
 
True, it was also my assumption that the OP just wanted reasonable numbers to calibrate by. You could put an ammeter in-line on the DC side for an exact measurement. I just thought amp clamp meters that are accurate cost a good bit of money and not necessarily what was needed for this. I paid $250.00 for my Fluke meter.
Peace
+693 for Fluke Meters. Been using em since I was a teenager and working as a tech, installing car alarms, remote starters and thumpin car audio systems professionally. My dad even has a Fluke oscilloscope kicking around somewhere....that thing was $2000+. Both of the electrician friends I know and another cat who is a high voltage lineman on the power grid all use Fluke meters exclusively. I now cut and climb huge trees and we use the white handled pro Stihl chainsaws only. Ya get what ya pay for these days...it's nice knowing that decent stuff still exists. The only Stihl saw I've had to junk was because dumbass myself got the saw pinched 40' in the air and it took a plunge with a 200 pound chunk of Black Locust. D'oh. It's in the basement in a corner. It still runs though!!! Get a Fluke if you are a homeowner. You can pass it down to your kids.

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