Lighting KIND K3 DIY Retro Build

Hey BigSm0, could you explain what is chassis, aluminium boxes? English is not my first language but I cannot find here in EU proper cheaper heatsinks for multiple COBs. Only Arctic Alpine and other computer heatsinks with fans - but this is not "economical" because I would need 6 of those - it would be mess in my tent with all those wires.
these are just a way to attach the heatsinks or cobs themselves to make a light. A lot of people are converting old lights and not saving much from them but the case. So instead of converting this company could be an option. Can you get the passive pin heat sinks in Eu? That are excellent and don't require any additional wiring. The only other thing would be to try an get heatsink extrusion and cool it with fans.
 
Oh, so it's just a frame. That can be 80/20 extrusion profile also.

Ahhh... I still didn't get passive heatsinks here (I need 4, already have 2 CXB on active and run little harder). I guess it's still better option to get long aluminium heatsink and 1-2 big 14cm fans on it. Less wiring than 6x Arctic alpine.
Right now I have 2 CXB 3590 on Arctic alpine 11+ (active), 1800mA or around 64 W. When my 250W HPS die, I will upgrade with 4 more CXB, so total 6.
 
Oh, so it's just a frame. That can be 80/20 extrusion profile also.

Ahhh... I still didn't get passive heatsinks here (I need 4, already have 2 CXB on active and run little harder). I guess it's still better option to get long aluminium heatsink and 1-2 big 14cm fans on it. Less wiring than 6x Arctic alpine.
Right now I have 2 CXB 3590 on Arctic alpine 11+ (active), 1800mA or around 64 W. When my 250W HPS die, I will upgrade with 4 more CXB, so total 6.
Yes just a box basically. Easy and clean way to make lights like the ones you can purchase completed. Sorry I know EU is very limited but you can't buy the pins there? I don't really see any other options besides active fan cooling unfortunately. Especially running them that hard.
 
The common driver used is from Meanwell. they are a top quality driver. The HLG model, C series are what we most commonly chose with cobs.

Here's how to know what driver to choose, based on what amperage you wish to run them at. Here is a chart with specs for the HLG-240H-C series

meanwell.jpg


the 240 in the HLG-240H is the total watt output. the Cis followed by the constant current output to each cob. below that you see the minimum and maximum voltage to drive the cob with. This tells you how many cobs you can run from one driver.

Example: HLG-240H-C1400 can give a maximum of 179 volts. the minimum number of cobs would be 2, 36V rated cobs the max would be 5..but..

at this point you need to know how much voltage your cob choice really uses at X voltage. your 36V cob's actual V range will be something like 34.2 to 36.6. The range is call the Vf or forward voltage. Vf is the actual voltage across the chip. It depends on how much current your driver provides, voltage rises as amperage rises in the cob. at the 1400ma our imaginary 36V cob uses exactly 36V you can run 5, the driver has a little wiggle room. But if it was using 36.6 volts, now we are at 183V total. Your driver MIGHT run them, but now you are seriously over driving the driver.

People do it, but IMO, you shouldn't.

Most suppliers have data sheet for the cobs, drivers, etc. download them for your choice of cob and drivers. It gives you the information needed to choose correctly.

So in simple terms, multiple your cob's Vf x amperage = watts per cob x# of cobs = total draw watts

How about this question @BigSm0 @pop22. If your driver has let's say 199volts and you have 4 cobs like the citizenclu48, would that many work? Since they have 47min/57max what determines how much volts one takes? You follow me? They would work if they only take a 49 volts but wouldn't if they took 50 volts. Just wondering if it would work and what determines the voltage?
 
Back
Top